A Pilgrimage to Haifa, November 1919
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Source: Bahá'í Library Online (bahai-library.com), curated by Jonah Winters. Used by permission of the curator. Original citation: Bahiyyih Randall Winckler, A Pilgrimage to Haifa, November 1919, bahai-library.com.
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A
PILGRIMAGE
TO HAIFA

A gift from
Mildred R. Mottahedeh
November 1919
Ridvan 152 B.E.

(Memories of a Young Girl
of 12 Years Old)

by Bahiyyih Winckler
Dr Lotfullah Hakim w'as waiting for us with
A PILGRIMAGE TO HAIFA                                        'Abdu'l-Baha's carriage. When the officials began to
argue about our luggage he said we were 'Abdu'l-
Baha's guests and they stopped at once. As we drove
November 1919                                 past the town it looked strange, so many walls hiding
buildings and the men wearing long white shirts that
(Memories of a Young Girl of 12 Years Old)                   looked like father's nightgowns. We stopped to let a
line of camels pass. They had square tin boxes
by Bahiyyih Winckler                       • strapped to their sides, containing a years supply of
butter (I wouldn't like to taste that butter!).

We left town and began to climb upward, until
the horses stopped before a wall with a large wrought
iron gate. We looked thru the bars to see a sandy yard
with a large stone house in the middle of it. We were

T
here was a splash; the anchor had             to stay there twelve days. Suddenly it was as if a hand
dropped; we had reached Haifa! Seven          turned my face to the left. I saw the top of a small
of us were standing on the top deck of        building showing above a wall. In the upper half of a
the dirty old ship that we would be glad to leave,           window was the face of 'Abdu'l-Baha. He was looking
cockroaches and all. It was early, before breakfast, but     at us and yet into some distant place.
we were excited to see Haifa where 'Abdu'l-Baha was.
I was twelve years old and was with my family, Ruth                  Without any action on my part I became close
and Harry Randall. My younger brother, Bill, was sick        to Him. His eyes were radiant and they spoke of love
and three years old and could not come with us at this       and wisdom, but there was a look of patient sadness
time.                                                        also. He did not speak or move. I looked beyond
Him and there was a large circle of soft pink with a
Soon, little boats came from the shore with men      white center, the edges of the circle gray with sparkles
full of business such as seeing passports and asking         of gold. It was very beautiful and I became aware that
how much money we had. We hurried them and                   it was telling me something about the Master, how
ourselves and were finally led to the side of the ship       wonderful He was, but I did not understand.
where a thin looking rope ladder would take us to a
small boat way below. We made it but it was scary.                   Then I was wrapped in a feeling of love to-
Mother started to fall but father caught her. It was         wards the Master that flooded my heart. As suddenly
lucky the sea was calm.                                      as this happened, it was over. Later, after I had
thought about such an unusual inCident, I decided it
2                                                                                                                           3
was a gift from the Master. One that was beyond           President traveling incognito.
measure, that would remain with me forever. It was a
gift in two ways: one, that the Master's great station           The Master left us after awhile saying that He
was beyond comprehension, and second, that I could        had many letters to write and an important guest was
be close to Him if I loved Him.                           coming for lunch. The meal was brought from the
Master's house and consisted of soup, fish, pilaf and
Our new home proved to be spacious for all of      kabob. There was lots to eat and we were hungry.
us. Fugita had gone to the household of the Master        After lunch I went to my room to open my steamer
where he longed to be. There was Arthur Hathaway,         trunk. People at home wanted us to take pictures so I
Albert Vail, George Latimer and our family. Doctor        took out my Brownie Box camera and lots of film.
Esselmont occupied one room because he was ill and
writing a book about the Faith. We stood by his door               In the afternoon a Colonel and Mrs Allison and
and greeted him. He looked tired but kind.                a Mr Denham came from the ship asking if they could
see 'Abdu'l-Baha. My family talked about the Faith to
Shoghi Effendi was 10 years older than I. He       everyone on the ship. Father had asked Shoghi
came to greet us and to say that the Master would be      Effendi if it was all right. Later we were all invited to
coming very soon, and there He was in the doorway!        the Master's house. As we entered the gate I saw the
I caught my breath but He smiled and welcomed us          little building up against the wall. Shoghi. Effendi said .
with enthusiasm. He shook our hands and made us           it was a place where the Master could be alone and
feel that He was really glad that we had come. We all     rest. The Master's house is large with a big central
sat down when He did.                                     room with doors leading to other parts of the house.

He asked us about our trip. No one told Him               Also in the afternoon we went to a gathering at
about the terrible storm in the Mediterranean. The old    the Shrine of the Bab. Mother and I were sad because
ship, which was not used anymore, was brought back        the ladies of the Master's household could not be seen
into service to carry troops during the war. It groaned   by strange men, not even in Holy Places. It is a Musand shook when the huge waves crashed down upon           lim rule.
us. The captain said it was the worst storm he had
ever been in. We were a little frightened, but perhaps           There were many people including Persians on
the Master knew this and protected us.                    pilgrimage. The Shrine has more than one room and
the Master led us to a door where we all took off our
'Abdu'l-Baha spoke of President Wilson and it      shoes. There was a big pile of them and I wondered if
was interesting because father looks so much like him.    any were ever stolen or if owners took the wrong
When we entered one of the Consulates in Europe on        shoes by mistake. I stood by the Master's side and as
our way to Haifa, the staff arose thinking it was the     each person entered the room, the Master put rose
4                                                                                                                           5
water in their hands. He had a very small bottle and I    bed. I was told it burns a long time ... a gallant little
watched. There was always enough, even for me at          wick!
the end. How could it be? Maybe it was a miracle. In
this room there was chanting but I could not under-              Then it was dinner with the Master. Mother and
stand the words.                                          I put on our best dresses. Dinner was at 7:30 and we
were on time. Father was never late to anything. He
Then we took turns going to the entrance of a     said the Master was the same, unless there was a
second room where the body of the Bab lies below          reason, "I was never allowed one."
floor level. A beautiful rug covers the Spot. We only
went to the entrance which was covered with flowers              'Abdu'l-Baha placed each person at the table.
and knelt and bowed our heads. I wondered why             Mother at the head, father and George part way down,
some men were weeping. My father said it was a very       and Shoghi Effendi and Dr Hakim at the bottom
special and important time for peoples' hearts.           because they were taking notes of all that the Master
said. He placed me on His left side. That was to be
my place all during our visit.

Sitting across from me was what the Master
called a Sheik. I was fascinated because I had read
First Day                             about such men. I wondered if he had tents filled
with silk pillows and women lying on them. Fugita
here were many experiences in even one

T       day. When we reached home after
visiting the Shrine mother showed me
two things. One was the toilet. A small building the
came in carrying large plates of pilaf and other things.
The pilaf had dainty pieces of meat and vegetables
mixed into the rice, and on top, pine nuts.
size of a clothes closet was near the house. Inside, it
The Master talked a great deal but never lost
had a wooden shelf with a hole in the middle. That is
sight of anyone's plate, and when empty He would
where we sat, over the hole! I was afraid that
arise from His chair and, still talking, fill the plate. He
something underneath would bite me.
did this to father twice and I knew he was struggling
to eat it all, but no one would leave even a speck.
The second was the lighting in the bedrooms.
When the Master was silent no one spoke. There was
There was a drinking glass 2/3 full of water. On top of
a loving respect that one could feel. Shoghi Effendi
this was a thin layer of oil, and on top of that was a
did the interpreting as the Master spoke and he did not
little round piece of stiff pink paper with about 1/4
seem to have time to eat very much.
inch wick pushed partly thru the middle hole of the
paper. It lighted my room enough to get ready for
When dinner was finished the Master arose and
6                                                                                                                           7
went to a wash basin by His bedroom door, washed           about this word or that. When they had finished
.
His hands and beard and then said goodnight. As He         Shoghi Effendi took the papers to the Master for His
went through the door I felt lonely. Everyone else         approval.
arose and went on their way home.
Sometimes the Master corrected a word or two,
but seldom according to Shoghi Effendi. The Master
always spoke to me in English and did so with others
when he wished to.
Day Two                                       Luncheons continued to be brought to us from
the Master's house. Shoghi Effendi and Lotfullah were
he next morning bagpipes woke me up.

T      A division of the British Army was
stationed on Mt. Carmel. They used
bagpipes instead of bugles. They were loud enough
always with us and sometimes Dr. Esselmont. The
wonderful surprise was that this day the Master came
saying that He would be with us every day. Shoghi
Effendi assured us that this was a great honor because
to wake everyone up. Father came in having walked          He seldom had time to do this. The big table with the
up to the Shrine of the Bab and back. He said we did       white cloth was made beautiful when the Master took
not come here to sleep. I thought, spiritual people,       fragrant jasmine blossoms from a large handkerchief in
but not me!                                                his pocket and tossed them into the center of the table.
At seven thirty a maid came in with a large cup            The Master was always so happy even when
of black coffee for father. He was astonished. Who         one day He was terribly tired, having had only four
could know what his custom was in the mornings?            hours sleep and no breakfast. We became like a
The dear Master, of course! We were learning that He       family, feeling free to laugh and ask questions (but
knew us better than we knew ourselves. Breakfast           always with respect).
consisted of tea, served in tiny glasses so hot that one
couldn't hold them at first, eggs, cheese and bread.              Mother spoke of the death of Sandy Kinney and
The bread was the size of a large pancake and when         the Master said He would send a message. I asked for
cut open was hollow and food could be put inside like      a message for Howey Kinney who was my best friend.
a sandwich.                                                The Master spoke at once, "Although thy brother has
ascended to the Abha Kingdom and has not remained
Shoghi Effendi and Dr Lotfullah arrived after       long in this world, My hope is that on behalf of thy
breakfast to begin the translation into English of the     brother thou mayst strive on behalf of thy parents.»
talks of 'Abdu'l-Baha. Father and George Latimer
helped. They made every effort to be accurate, talking            The Master had an inexhaustible supply of
8                                                                                                                          9
,
stories. His facial expressions and tone of voice made     had a strange feeling in my body and when He left,
a story seem real. The little dog story I liked best, so   the feeling left. I thought perhaps it was due to
here it is as I remember it. According to the Master:      excitement. But it comes whenever I am with Him.
have tried to describe it to myself and perhaps it's like
We were at Akka when Kamel Pasha became             a very mild electric current might feel like. It does not
Prime Minister. His brother became governor of Acca.       hurt but makes me feel uneasy.
In Turkey the brother of the prime minister could do
whatever he wished. One day he came with a carriage                Mother and I were invited to have tea with the
and we went out together. On the way I noticed that        Master's family this afternoon. Tea was served in the
he had a hunting outfit and he had four or five large      room opposite the front door of the Master's home.
hunting dogs. A gazelle was sighted. These dogs            There was the Greatest Holy Leaf (the Master's sister),
chased after it. One of the Baha'is had a small dog, an    His wife and their four daughters, one of whom spoke
Arab Baha'i. He also had come. These five dogs of          English, named Munawar. She became Mother's close
the governor did not catch anything. This little dog       friend.
caught a large gazelle.
They greeted us with love and were eager to
The governor became ashamed. When the               hear news of America. The Master sat with us for
dogs returned he began to beat them. He said, "What        awhile. He reads the newspapers, but He talks with us
can I do? The Baha'is are assisted. These five dogs of     just the same. I remember when His little grandson,
mine could catch nothing, but this little dog did." He     Foad, rushed in to say that his pet donkey had a fever
dismounted and took the little dog in his arms and         and would the Master please pray for him. They left
kissed it. He told the owner of the dog that he would      together to see the animal. There were meetings
not give it back to him.                                   before dinner with the Master, pilgrims, guests and
people from various places in the world. They show
'Abdu'l-Baha told us about all kinds of things,     respect and love for 'Abdu'l-Baha. Some come for the
even a potato, my favorite food. He said that sixty        first time yet the Master knows them and speaks as if
years ago they introduced the potato into Persia.          they were friends. Sometimes I forget how wonderful
There was so much superstition that they used to say       the Master is because He is so natural, and yet we are
that whoever eats it becomes an infidel. No one            but shadows compared to Him.
would eat it except those who took it with wine.
There was so much prejudice. Now see what
Baha'u'llah has done. Now we are all gathered
around one table, filled with love!

Yesterday when the .Master first came to see us I
10                                                                                                                          11
Day Three                               the Children of the Kingdom' - I will send a Tablet."

hen Shoghi Effendi came this morn                At luncheon the Master turned to me saying,

W         ing, he said that the Master would
give us each a private interview.
Mother's would be this morning. I was a little afraid to
"Your name is Bahiyyih. It means light and there must
be something to make the light." He had a twinkle in
His eyes and a big smile.
have mine for fear I would cry or say something silly.
To be alone with the Master would not be an ordinary              I loved the name at once, it had a soft musical
experience. Mother said I could go with her, so we         sound. My name, Margaret, had a harsh sound and I
hurried along. It was pouring rain. He greeted us in       had never liked it. Later, I learned the name Bahiyyih
His loving way by putting both hands to His forehead.      was the name of the sister of 'Abdu'l-Baha , the
He took us to the meeting room (Reception), seated         Greatest Holy Leaf. My brother received the name
us, and then sat down opposite us. I called it the         Baha'I, in a Tablet to father. What a blessing for us
"meeting room."                                            both - and what a challenge! I'm sure the Master
heard my heart saying thank you.
Mother had lots to say. She had brought
messages from people in the States. She also wanted               Luncheon that day was especially fun. The
to know about herself. Her biggest question was            Master encouraged Fugita to try and teach him to eat
whether the Master would like father and herself to        rice with chopsticks. We all laughed, even the Master.
build a Western Pilgrim House - where Baha'IS from         Fugita for many years had longed to be able to come
the West could stay when they were on pilgrimage.          to Haifa and be of service in the Master's home.
The Master smiled and said, "Very good, very good."        Father had seen him in Naples, stranded because ships
were scarce. Father arranged for him to come with us.
Then it was my turn. I stood up and asked (I
heard this coming out of my mouth, with surprise),                   The Master teased me about food the entire
"What can I do to s.erve the Faith?" There was silence     visit. He would ask if I liked something that was being
for a few minutes and then I heard, "Study, study,         served. If I said, "A little," He would usually say, "I
STUDY." When the Master wanted to emphasize                know what you are thinking." And the next day for
something He would repeat it three times, His voice        me we would have chicken and potatoes, and it tasted
getting louder and louder.                                 good! Another time we had a delicious sweet that
looked like pink shredded wheat, only it was very
I told about Ella Robarts who was publishing a    brittle. It was a real treat. He was so kind and
little magazine for Baha'I children. Would the Master      thoughtful.
please give it a name. He replied, "'The Magazine of
When the Master left it was raining. Mother
12                                                                                                                        13
handed Him an umbrella as He started down the front
listening to what 'Abdu'l-Baha might have wanted to
steps. It was a cold rain and mother was worried he
say.
might catch a chill. He did not seem concerned and
handed the umbrella to Shoghi Effendi. The Master is
not really like we are. He can control Nature, even
raindrops and a storm like He did when He was in the
United States.                                                                Day Four
Mother likes being with the ladies. They talk                  decided to go down to the end of the yard
about what is going on in the Faith because the ladies
hear very little news. They also talk about marriage,
children and sometimes cooking. I seldom stay after
I   to see who our neighbors were. I was
about to start when a message came from
the Master asking me not to go because His enemies
tea. I now enjoy the little glasses of hot sweet tea.     lived there. I was grateful He had stopped me, but
how did He know? I had not told anyone. Living here
Since it was still raining I went down to our      under the protection of a loving Master is a gift never,
house. Dr Esselmont was Sitting in a chair in his room    never to forget.
so we talked together. He said the Master was helping
him a lot with his book - helping him clarify things.             Mother and I went shopping in town. She
bought rosaries to take back to friends . She had heard
I told Esselmont about a dream I had. For years    that if one wanted to count the Greatest Name ninety-
I heard believers talking about their dreams, all of      five times with a rosary it helped one's concentration.
them remarkable according to them. I wanted to have       At noon the Master talked a long time. Our desert was
a dream that I could talk about, but it never happened.   a dish of fresh dates. I tasted them in Cairo and de-
Then one night - I was so excited - it happened. I        cided never to eat them again, or yogurt (mast). When
was with Jesus. As people came to see Him He gave         I made up my mind about something I seldom
each one a pearl. They were about the size of a           changed. That was why I was naughty lots of times -
grapefruit, round and white, wrapped in veils of soft     at least that is what I was told.
color. They looked so pretty. The people bowed as
they accepted a pearl. Jesus was happy. I was happy              The Master put two dates on a little plate in
too! You see I always enjoyed stories about Jesus,        front of me and explained that they helped the diges-·
especially the one about the five loaves and two fish.    tion and gave heat to the body. Then He arose from
I was glad my special dream was about Him.                the table and left us. We always went to the door to
watch Him walk home. Then I looked at the dining
Before dinner we went to the evening meeting.      room table and again it had been cleared and I was
This night non-Baha'is asked questions rather than        thankful, the dates were gone. But in a corner of the
room was the little plate and it had the two dates on it.       Master cares for. This man could not move his arm to
lift a spoon to his mouth. The Master gently helps him .'
I stood on one foot and then the other. Must I        while He talks and watches peoples' plates. This man
eat those dates? Every reason why not came into my              was one of the four Hands of the Cause of God apmind. I discovered one date was a little rotten, so of          pointed by Baha'u'llah, Ibn-i-Asdaq. He had also done
course it would not be necessary to eat that one. But           wonderful work for the Faith. During dinner the
something also kept saying to me, the Master told you           Master turned to me saying, "Yogurt is very good." He
to, "The Master never asks you to do something unless           turned to Fugita and asked him to get some for me.
it is for your own good." After about ten minutes I ate         He returned at once saying there was none and should
both dates. I felt heroic, wise and relieved.                   he go next door? The Master said, "No that is not
necessary. "
There was much activity at tea time. Mother
took my dresses for the ladies to copy the patterns.                    Then He looked at me with such a kind look.
Many Baha'i women came and went. The Master's                   This is what had happened to me. When the Master
wife is going away but she has four daughters who               said yogurt, I reacted in only one way - instant obewill help take care of things. But I have noticed that it       dience. I did not remember that I had decided never
is to the Greatest Holy Leaf whom everyone turns to             to even smell it again. The Master had shown me in a
for help and advice. She is gentle and loving, but              way I could understand what obedience means. When
strong too.                                                     God speaks through His chosen channels, His Teachers, do not question it for your own good and happi-
After tea I wandered into the garden that sur-          ness. This was yet another gift from the Master that I
rounds part of the Master's house. An old man called            had needed. It was a basic lesson for a lifetime.
Haydar All was Sitting on a bench in the sun. I asked
the young man sitting next to him what Mr All had
done for the Faith. He asked the question and the
answer was, "I have not done as much as an ant
would do for the Faith of God." The young man had                                    Day Five
fire in his eyes and I realized that I should not have
asked such a thing. Shoghi Effendi was in the garden.
He had a grapefruit in his hand. I asked if I could take
his picture and he said yes. Shoghi Effendi was completely devoted to his grandfather and was always ·
,          I
t is still raining. I guess we are going to
have a wet pilgrimage. Shoghi Effendi said
we would go to Akka on the first clear day.
The Master came to see Dr Esselmont because he is
helpful and kind to me.                                     J   not well. He stOod in his doorway quite awhile. He
said He was sorry He could not stay with us but would
At dinner there was another old man whom the
16                                                                                                                               17
come for lunch. At lunch He told more stories about                                 Day 'Six
Christ and the Jews. He never said unkind things.
t was a very cold day but the rain stopped.
In the afternoon I helped the ladies clean
wheat. There are great bags of it and we pulled it
towards us little by little, looking for the little stones
I     Mother went to bed with a hot water bottle.
Aziz Yazdi came to see me. He is about my
age. His family live in Haifa. Imagine living near the
that cause trouble. We sat around a large round table.         Master all the time. I enjoyed his visit.
When we finished sorting I walked around in the
house because it was still raining. I saw a door partly                We had brought a small trunk full of gifts, and
open down a little hallway. I was quiet but the ·              father asked if the Master would accept them. He said
Greatest Holy Leaf heard me and asked me to come in.           that because we wanted so much to give them it
She was on her bed and I was sorry to have disturbed           would be acceptable. When lunch was finished the
her, but she smiled and got up to show me some                 trunk was opened. To our horror the yellow package
interesting pictures and things that she had. She spoke        of bug powder mother had put in had broken. It took
little English but her eyes are what talked. Her face          some time to clean the powder off everything. There
looked dreadfully tired but her eyes were like the             were typewriters and watches for both men and
Master's, so alive and expressive. She is not like the         women. The Master was given a beautiful watch that
other ladies.                                                  fit in His pocket. Shoghi Effendi liked the typewriter.
There were three lengths of a special wool material for
She is apart, like the Master. It was a joy to be   coats for the Master. It was soft as a bunnies ear.
with her. I loved her. She gave me a Persian pen box       Mother took these to the Greatest Holy Leaf to be
before I left. Mother often sits beside her afternoons     made up as the Master wished. He said He had one
because she also feels something special.                  coat and did not need others. The Greatest Holy Leaf
asked Him to accept the material as it would be rude
A few days before we left the Greatest Holy         not to. A coat was made and He wore it for us to see.
Leaf also gave us a piece of "rock candy" that             The next day father was walking out the front door
Baha'u'llah used to give those in the Ridvan Garden.       when he saw a poor man walking down the street
It was the last piece she had! It looked like crystal.     with the coat on!

There were seventeen for dinner. 'Abdu'l-Baha
seemed tired and He answered questions rather than
to give a talk. He went to His room without even
saying goodnight and we knew He was exhausted.

Hakim knows a lot about history and he said it must
Day Seven                                date back to about 1799 when Napoleon tried to take
the fortress. I wanted to keep it but father said "No!"
he bagpipes awakened me->and for once I

T       was glad because Shoghi Effendi came
early to say it was clear and we could go
to Acca. We had finished breakfast by seven forty five
We entered the courtyard where Baha'u'llah
used to walk for exercise. While there a very old man,
Aga Hossein, came. Shoghi Effendi had sent for him
and went to the street. The Master was there making         as he was the only living survivor of those terrible
all the arrangements. There were eleven of us going:        days, with the exception of the Master and Bahiyyih
our group, Shoghi Effendi, Dr Lotfullah, Fugita,            Khinum, the Greatest Holy Leaf. As we saw each
Dr Suliman Rifat, Esfandiar, the faithful coachman and      room he told us about what had happened.
the Master's devoted servant, and Khosrar, a young
Hindu boy. The Master seated us, and He saw that                    One was where the Master made soup. We saw
our luncheon was safely packed. There were two              the first room Baha'u'llih had slept in, and the second
carriages with three horses each. The Master wished         one was up a steep flight of stairs. There was no
us a happy day and we were off!                             furniture, not even a bed or chair. It seemed
impossible that Baha'u'llih could be treated that way.
We went up the mountain a little then turned        We also saw the room where the Purest Branch, Mirza
left going along a road that soon dropped down to the       Mihdi, had fallen through the skylight. It was sad to
sea. This was the best road to Acca and there were          be in such a place. The old man had made those
caravans and groups of loaded donkeys slowly moving         awful days vivid - he seemed to live them over again.
along. He stopped to rest the horses once, and stretch
our legs. Then Esfandiar took us around in the back                 We left the barracks and met the carriages to be
of Acca because the streets were narrow. We                 taken to the Ridvan Garden. I remember something
approached the back of a huge fortress (now called          the Greatest Holy Leaf had told us. She had said they
the barracks) where Bahi'u'lhih, His family and follow-     were marvelously happy in the barracks because they
ers were imprisoned for two years. It was a dreadful        had not been separated from Baha'u'llih. The Garden
looking place.                                              is surrounded by a stream, like an island. I would call
it a brook. We crossed a short bridge and entered a
We left the carriage and walked along a path        place of flowers and fruit. It was November and yet
towards the entrance of the barracks. We crossed a          the Garden looked so fresh and happy.
flimsy bridge covering two deep moats - they used to
be filled with water, and were deep. I noticed an odd              The gardener came to talk to us. He pointed
pile of earth beside the path and dug at it with a stick.   out special plants, some of which had been carried all
It proved to be an old cannon ball. Dr Lotfullah            the way from Persia by pilgrims, some of whom had
20                                                                                                                          21
walked. He went to the mulberry trees with the bench       donkey standing in the meta1 door. There was also a
underneath where Baha'u'llah used to sit sometimes         long green snake moving among some rocks - I didn't        J

resting, and other times dictating imp0r:!~t Tablets.      like that. When we walked to the left of Bahji to a
small building where the Master stayed when He
The table was set up near the trees and we        visited the Shrine of Baha'u'llah. They were invited by
enjoyed a delicious pilaf. The desert was fruit from       the caretakers to have tea and entered a little room
the Garden: oranges, dates, lemons, pomegranates and       that was partly open to a small courtyard where
watermelon. It was truly a very special garden. The        flowers grew. Bahji' was the last place where
little fountain near where we were sitting was not         Baha'u'llah had lived. It is in Acca. We were now
working. I wanted to see it flowing because it would       going to enter the Shrine, for Baha'fs the holiest spot
be like the days when Baha'u'llah was there.               on earth!

The gardener took us to a corner of the prop-             First we went through a small garden that the
erty where a fence enclosed a round dirt track. A          Master had made, and then through a large door. We
donkey was standing there. The donkey when, blind-         took off our shoes. Shoghi Effendi gave us rose water
folded, would walk round and round the track and the       for our faces, then we stepped inside a large room
water would begin to flow (the donkey wouldn't walk        with a small garden in the center. It was raised above
until it was blindfolded). The fountain came alive,        the floor level and had a glass roof over it. The floor
making a soft sound. How cool it must have been            was covered with a beautiful Persian rug. After a few
sitting beside the fountain on a hot day. It was selfish   minutes of silent prayer Shoghi Effendi chanted the
of me to ask but it was so lovely and we all enjoyed it.   Tablet of Visitation, a special prayer to be said at the
Shrine. It was so spiritual.
After lunch we were taken to the little building
where Baha'u'llah used to rest and have tea. It had                 Then we entered the small room where the
not changed. His room was up a short flight of stairs      body of Baha'u'llah had been placed below floor level.
and underneath was where the gardener lived. In this       It was in the middle of the room with a magnificent
Garden one feels close to Him perhaps because He           rug over it. We stood silently. I could not even think.
loved it.                                                  I just felt great peace and power, as if Nature also
stood still in that room. We stepped down from the
Then we were off to the Mansion of Bahji. On        room with a feeling of reverence.
the way they stopped to show us the little house that
was partly in ruins where the Master for many years               We went back to the carriages -- the day in this
had welcomed the pilgrims. There was still a little        most holy part <~fthe world was over. I knew it would
garden there. A short way from Bahji we left the           live with me forever and ever. We went back by way
carriages and walked. I ran ahead and saw a little         of the sea and this time the waves splashed up on the
22                                                                                                                         23
wheels of the carriages. Then we saw the Master          Master. 'Abdu'l-Baha came after a few minutes and
standing at our gate waiting to welcome us back.         stood looking at the sea. He told us that someday the
"Have you had a happy day?" He asked,;~Rest now          drive to Acca and the Holy Shrine would be beautiful
until the evening meeting." He knew our hearts were      with orange groves. A great breakwater would be
full to the brim. The evening was long. Three times      built to form a harbor and ships from all over the
dinner was announced but the Master had left us so       world would come. The Shrine of the Bab would be
we just sat. I thought I was approaching starvation.     lighted and would be a landmark for ships and planes.
Then we heard voices. The Master was coming in           Then He turned to the Shrine and stood by the door of
with Colonel and Mrs Allison saying He had been          the large room. I stood by Him as He gave everyone a
waiting for them (they had not said they were            little rose water. It was the same story - the little
coming). Dinner was very late and it was good to         bottle that never got empty. It was -more than I could
finally get into bed. What a day! My little light com-   understand. We went to the room where the Bab's
forted me.                                               body lies. Shoghi Effendi chanted the Tablet of Visitation. There is something in the Shrines that one's heart
responds to. Then the carriage was waiting to take us
down the hill.
Day Eight
At dinner the Master spoke about airplanes,
how they would get bigger and bigger and faster and
t was a lovely day. I went for a walk up the

I   mountain. I kept thinking that perhaps one
of the Prophets had walked along this same
path. Mt. Carmel is a fascinating place because it
faster.

seems to have been a center for spiritual thought.
There are a few wild flowers, but not enough for
mother to dry. She wanted to take some back home                              Day Nine
with her.
t was another clear day. We had so much
After luncheon the Master patiently waited
while we took lots of pictures. He also arranged a
group picture. Dr Esselmont was well enough to be
I   rain but no one seemed to mind or even
talk about it. Our house continues to be
very cold. I feel sorry for Dr Esselmont. The Master
with us - he is such a dear person. In the afternoon     came again early in the morning to talk with him. The
we all went to the Shrine of the Bab. A carriage took    luncheons were....- our happiest times because the Master
some of us up over the awful rocky road. Father had      was so jolly. (kept thinking about this because we
gone up earlier as he had a private talk with the        have grown so close to Him. I asked Him which city
24                                                                                                                        25
He liked best in the United States and He said,                                  Day Ten
"Washington, Chicago, San Francisco." Then He
paused again and said, "San Francisco."_/So, the city in                 t was raining again. At noon time it came
the West had won.

After lunch Shoghi Effendi brought us a brass
I     down in sheets but the Master came for
lunch just the same. He sits with us not as
a wise man who can accomplish anything but as
charcoal burner. It took the chill off our big room.        someone who is part of our lives. I think about this
Mother wanted to buy one to take home because it is         every day because I do not understand lots of things.
so nice to look at and the heat is pleasant.                The little current is still with me when He comes near.
Also, He never seems to leave us - I mean in spirit.
We went to see the ladies a bit earlier. Mother      Whatever I do each day it is as if He is by my side.
is sad about leaving them. She has asked the Greatest       The family talks about things like this. Maybe one day
Holy Leaf to tell her how to bake the rice that is so       I will realize more than now, when I am older.
delicious. The Master came for tea and mother spoke
of the attractive brass heater that gives such a comfort-            The Master was in the tearoom reading a
able heat. The Master said he did not like the furnace      newspaper when Mrs Allison, mother and I arrived.
heat we had in America because it was heavy and dull.
His welcome is always so warm. He did not stay long
He said that ventilation was important and He had to
so mother asked the Greatest Holy Leaf if she would
open windows. They talked a lot about this subject.
tell us about some of her experiences with Baha'u'llah.
I stayed. I loved history. She talked a long time,
Colonel and Mrs Allison came again for the          telling about things that were sad and cruel. I will
evening meeting and dinner. Mother says they are            never forget one thing she told us. The second night
deeply interested in the Faith. The dinner hour             in the barracks in Acca when they had no comfort and
brought us something that we had not seen before.           little food, they got to laughing. Baha'u'llah came to
The Master spoke on martyrdom and He became                 the door telling them to be quiet because the jailers
radiant. His face shone, His voice was loud and             would think they were crazy.
powerful, and we could hardly eat. It seemed as if
everything must be shaking, even the atoms. He said                After tea time mother received a lovely Persian
that he longed to be martyred for the Faith, but doesn't    headdress from Munavvar. Mother in turn gave her
He have that everyday? Shoghi Effendi has told us           what she had admired, her long necklace of amber
about what the Master suffers, especially froni en-         beads.
emies.
There was more interesting history at dinner.
The Master said that this is the ground where the

26                                                                                                                          27
Prophets had walked. They dwelt here to give the           The blood of Baha'u'llah was drawn at that time and
glad tidings that a day would come when the tent of        put in a vase. There it became congealed. We could            ,l

the Lord would be pitched here. Baha'u'Uah had             not comprehend that we had such a gift, that it was
of
pitched His tent near where the Shrine the Bab was         real. I prayed about it and finally put it away in my
placed. Jesus used to walk across Mt. Carmel to Haifa      trunk.
and Nazareth. Mohammed came once when He was
eleven years old and again when He was twenty eight.               After all the spiritual excitement the Greatest
Holy Leaf told us that she would show us how to cook
After dinner, as the Master was leaving He said,    the rice. We went to a little room where there was a
"These meals have been very happy. They are the            charcoal fire burning. The rice is washed and then put
Lord's supper because the wish and purpose has been        in boiling salt water until it is just soft enough to break
concerning the affairs of God."                            (about four or five minutes). It is then strained and
some butter is put in the pot and browned a little. The
rice is slowly put in with a sprinkling of spices and the
tiny pieces of meat. On top of this is placed two large
pieces of butter and then the cover is replaced. This is
Day Eleven                               put on a slow charcoal fire, and ashes and more charcoal are placed on top. It remains this way for three

T
his morning the Greatest Holy Leaf sent     quarters of an hour.
us each a gift by Shoghi Effendi. He said
we must guess what it was and handed               While this was being cooked, the Greatest Holy
us each a small envelope. We thought, but could not
Leaf said it was strange that I came to find out how to
guess correctly. In each envelope was a tiny piece of      cook when 'Abdu'l-Baha's own daughters did not
the blood of Baha'u'llah. No one knew what to say. I
know how. Munavvar laughed and said she could not
felt sort of numb, I could not grasp having such a
cook it, but knew just how it should be done.
thing. We were all silent. It was the most precious gift
in the world (how do you say thank you?).
Later in the afternoon the Master told us our
ship had come and we must leave tomorrow. He had
I wondered where I could put mine. Mother
told father several days ago that He would like us to
said hers must go into a solid gold box. This gift did
go to Germany and several other places. Now that
not leave my mind, my thoughts, for a long time.
was all changed and father was to go directly home,
When we went for tea mother asked the Greatest Holy
that "things would not be to his liking there."
Leaf about it. She said it was a custom in Persia in the
Spring to draw a certain amount of blood from the
forearm of a person as it was considered to be healthy.

28                                                                                                                             29
Day Twelve
ur last day. The Master came early for

O          lunch and asked us to join Him in Dr
Esselmont's room. He spoke
of His great love for us and that we must go
Bahiyyih Winckler was born in 1907 to
Ruth and Hany Randall, early American believers
back with our hearts full of love to give to others.
in the Faith ofBaha 'u 'llah.
Lunch was short. Mother and I said goodbye to the
Ruth Randall was the first to become a
ladies and mother wept. Then the Master called us
Baha'i, and it was the Master himself who brought
again, shook our hands and gave us loving messages.
Hany into the Faith in 1912. The Randalls were
We all felt that it was hard to part.
well known in New England social and financial
circles. Hany was the preSident of the Boston-
We went back in the pouring rain to get our
Maine Railroad, and it was the Randalls who
luggage and the Master called father to Him once
bought the Green Acre property in Eliot, Maine, as
again. Father came back weeping only to tell us that
a place of worship, study and fellowship for the
he had been alone with the Master and He was so
New England Baha'is.
wonderful.
Inspired by the powerful words and supreme
example of the Master (so lovingly recorded in this
The Persian believers came in the rain to wave
diary of 1919), Bahiyyih did indeed grow into a
us goodbye. Shoghi Effendi, Dr Lotfulla Hakim and
bright "light" among the handmaidens of His
Fugita joined us in the carriage and even went in the
Cause, a tireless servantfor the Faith . In 1953,
little boat to the ship.
under the direction of the Guardian, Bahiyyih
assumed a pioneering post in Durban, South
Then we were in the outside world again. The
Africa, working and sharing the teachings of
people at the dock and on the ship seemed so lifeless
Baha'u'llah with the black population for over 40
and dull. The world seemed cold.
years. She now lives in Sabie, Transval, South
Africa, and, as a young girl of 88 years, continues
I had left the heart of the world.
to teach .

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-- A Pilgrimage to Haifa, November 1919 (Used by permission of the curator)