The Splendour of Israel

' I. i 7 '' ,/ '/o. "'= '- \ 635.3, c 95. 5 BY THE SAME AUTHOR THE SPLENDOUR OF The Splendour of Greec~ The Splendour of Franc~

The Gold of Troy The Holy Fire Fathers of the Western Church ISRAEL Chunking Diary Schweitzer: Hero of Afric:a Zero The Terrorists by Mao Tse-Tung ROBERT PAYNE The White Rajahs of Sa1áawak The Holy Sword Gershwin The Three Worlds of Bods Pasternak

Illustrated and with maps

LONDON

ROBERT HALE LIMITED @ Robert Payne 19?3. First published in Great Britain 1963

Robert Hale Limited 5 3 Old Brornpton Road London S.W.7

CONTENTS

Jerusalem l l The Place of Splendour 25 Mount Zion 38 Tel Aviv Caesarea Haifa 67 Lake Huleh Razor 83 Beth Shean go Beth Shearim 103 Nazareth 109 Mount Tabor 120 Tiberias 125 The Sea of Galilee 138 b4á 512/ Ashkelon 150 Beersheba Massada 162 Ela th 172 Jerusalem 177 Index 187

PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY EBENEZER BAYLIS AND SON LIMITED THE TRINITY PRESS, WORCESTER, AND LONDON 18 THE SPLENDOUR OF ISRAEL JERUSALEM 19 careless of clothes and wear open-neck shirts and care little for The tomb stands on the summit of the hill, with Jerusalem in appearances. The girls dress without extravagance. The mood is the distance dusky yellow and gold, very beautiful. There is an im- calm, a little sombre, not given to ostentation, quietly self-assured. pression of height, of wind-swept spaces, of being between the Wages are low. There are theatres and cinemas and art galleries, desert and the sown. The site has been chosen with exquisite care. there is even a ferris wheel outlined with electric lights at the Today and for many years to come Herzl, who began life bottom of the municipal gardens, but there is no feeling that as an obscure Hungarian playwright, will continue to haunt people are desperately searching for entertainment. They are self- Jerusalem. His portrait-always the same portrait-hangs in all contained, and a surprising number of them are young: the the public buildings. Yet this portrait is scarcely fair to him; he is average age must be about thirty. In five minutes, in any of the shown in profile, frowning, heavily-bearded, lost in deep medita- main streets, you will see Jews from Persia, India, Morocco, tion. It is the portrait of a faintly sinister prophet, dark and Argentina, Yemen, Europe and America.Jerusalem is the melting saturnine. In fact, he was red-cheeked, with deep-set eyes which pot. All colours, all races are represented, and all are Jews. often glowed with laughter, and in his elegance he resembled a Jerusalem is a fortress. So it has been, and so it will always be. guardsman or a man about town rather than a prophet. He was The forward defences are scattered among the hills, as they were vain of his good looks, and was perfectly aware of the power of his in the time of King Jehoiakim, whose southern bastion has flashing eyes. recently been discovered by archaeologists in nearby Ramat He was born with many gifts. He could have been a poet or a Rahel, a hilltop with one of the world's most spectacular views. novelist or a journalist or a playwright with a European reputa- From there you look out across a valley to Bethlehem and the tion, but he wrote his plays too easily and his one surviving novel red-roofed Church of the Nativity, and not far away stands a white is not a novel at all; it is a visionary account, in minute detail, of a and gleaming mountain shaped like an extinct volcano: Herod Jewish state in Palestine as it would appear about the year 1962. made it into a fortress palace, and on the summit he was buried in Nor was there anything original in his book The Jewish State, a gold coffin studded with jewels. The mountains of Moab lie far which he completed when he was thirty-six; others before him to the east, the honey-coloured walls of Jerusalem rise to the had proclaimed that the Jewish state needed to be founded, pre- north, and the modern city sweeps around to the west. From that ferably in Palestine. What was original in him was his vision of the hilltop, near the ruins of a Judean fortress of the eighth century New Jerusalem, which he saw in such clear outline that he almost B.c. and of a Byzantine church, all of Jerusalem and the land believed in its existence. His greatest gift was nothing less than around it seem to lie at your feet. The frontier is only two hundred the gift of prophecy. yards away. Once he had conceived of the idea of the New Jerusalem, he painted it in such rich colours that it became credible even to those who had no sympathy with it. For centuries the Jews had AT HERZL'S TOMB dreamed ofreturning to Jerusalem. "Next year inJ erusalem"was a In the J udean hills, not far from] erusalem, and on the road to Ain common greeting, which had lost its meaning by repetition. Herzl Karem, where John the Baptist was born, there stands the square proclaimed: "Jerusalem this year, now, this very moment." He block of polished black marble which commemorates Theodor drew a picture of a modern Jerusalem lying outside the walls of Herzl, the founder of Zionism, who in 1898 prophesied that the the sacred city. A modern gleaming metropolis with wide avenues, state of Israel would come into existence in fifty years. He lies boulevards, parks, tree-shaded streets, recreation centres, electric beneath that immense marble tomb. On one side, written in a street-cars. As for the old city, it would be conserved as a monu- peculiarly vivid and powerful Hebrew script, there is his name. ment to the past with hospices for the pilgrims of all the denomina- There is no date of death, no date of birth, nothing about him. tions which regarded Jerusalem as a holy city, but there would be No text from the Old Testament decorates the tomb, as it no private dwellings. There would be hospitals and clinics and a decorates so many of the memorials in Israel. No star or shield of great Peace Palace. Whenever a disaster occurred anywhere in David, no Menorah, no Ark of the Covenant, is depicted on the the world, the Peace Palace would respond immediately with tomb. There is only the immense black stone and the great name. help. The victims of floods, earthquakes, famine, drought and So, in the Middle Ages, might men commemorate the death of a epidemics would have only to turn to the Peace Palace to know great prince. that they were being cared for. It would be the United Nations, 20 THE SPLENDOUR OF ISRAEL JERUSALEM 21

the World Health Organization, and UNESCO, the largest and and they must be kept together; this too has been done. He most powerful centre of humanitarian activity on earth. wanted a public works system, and he insisted that the new state So he dreamed, and though the Peace Palace was never erected should follow the middle road between capitalism and collec- in Jerusalem, his vision of the new city outside the walls, rising on tivism. He wanted a limit set to the growth of the towns, and each the encircling hills, came about very much as he predicted it. He town must live on the produce of the surrounding fields. He made wrote his description of Jerusalem in 1898 when only about forty vast plans for irrigation, and wrote happily about the wealth that thousand Jews were living there, many of them in squalor. would come from the potash of the Dead Sea. Sometimes he was In those days, at the turn of the century, the Valley ofEsdraelon overwhelmed by the sheer ebullience of his imagination, as when was little more than marshes and swampland. It was owned he dashed off in his diary: "The high priests will wear impressive largely by absentee Turkish and Arab landlords, and seemed robes. The cuirassiers will wear yellow trousers and white tunics. destined to become a kind of permanent graveyard. The scatter- The officers will have silver breastplates." But there are not many ing of Arab peasants who lived there called it "the Gateway to statements like this. The diary is largely a sober examination of Hell". Herzl, in one of the visionary passages of his novel Old-New his own triumphs and defeats, and a continuing exploration of the Land, described it as a great flowering plain thickly sown with nature of the Jewish state. wheat, oats, maize, hops and tobacco, with cows and sheep But when he was writing, the Jewish state belonged to the dis- grazing in the meadows, and trim villages and homesteads dotted tant future. He was a statesman without a state, a prophet without about the valley and crowding the hillsides. So it became, but no a country. He bearded the powerful Jewish multi-millionaires, one except Herzl had ever guessed there would be this flowering. Baron Maurice de Hirsch and Baron Edmond de Rothschild, and When Herzl published his novel in 1902, Haifa was little more made them listen to his plan for settling the Jews on the soil. He than a village lying at the foot of Mount Carmel, with a popula- inaugurated a series of Zionist Conferences, and laid down a tion of perhaps ten thousand people. He never visited the town, programme for establishing a home for the Jewish people which though he caught a passing glance of it from the sea. In his would be secured by public law. He believed the home should be imagination the village became a city towering up the entire in Palestine, then under the rule of the Sultan of Turkey, "the sick length of Mount Carmel, and spreading all the way to Acre. man of Europe", who sometimes gave the impression that he There was a superb port with great piers and jetties, and vessels of would cheerfully sacrifice Palestine in payment of an astronomical all nations lay at anchor under the sheltering mountains. For purchase price. Many Jews preferred assimilation in their adopted some reason he imagined this teeming city very silent, with almost countries to the adventure of setting up a Jewish state. Herzl no noise in the streets. He wrote : thundered against them, accusing them of timidity and cowardice. á At various times he thought he would be able to establish the Brilliant Oriental robes mingled with the sober costumes of the Jewish state in the arid El Arish area of northern Sinai, in Mozam- Occident, but the latter predominated. There were many Chinese, bique, Tripoli or the Congo, but all these ventures failed. The Persians and Arabs, but the city itself seemed thoroughly European. prize was always Palestine. One might easily imagine oneself in a large Italian port. The brilliant With his commanding presence, his social graces, his missionary blue of sky and sea were reminiscent of the Riviera, but the buildings were much cleaner and more modem, and the streets less noisy. The zeal, he was able to engage the interest of kings and princes and quiet was due largely to the dignified behaviour of the many Orientals European statesmen. The German Emperor and the Sultan of which precluded the raising of their voices, but also to the absence of Turkey listened to long speeches on the need for building a Jewish any draught animals. There was no hoofbeat of horses, no crackling of state and its advantages to the rest of the world. His interviews whips, no rumbling of wheels. The roads were as smooth as the side- with the Sultan were curiously disturbing, for Herzl had the walks, and the automobiles drove past silently on rubber wheels. impression that he was talking to a marionette and it was beyond his power to know who was pulling the strings. Sultan Abdul Again and again in his diaries, where the best of his writing is Hamid II was a small, shabby man with long yellow teeth, the preserved, he sketches out some detail of the Jewish state which hooked nose of a Punchinello, and ears that stuck out from the side has proved to be amazingly accurate. He sketched out its con- of his head, thus protecting his fez from falling down and com- stitution, labour laws, social welfare, education, town-planning. pletely covering his face. He listened politely to everything Herzl He wanted entire communities transplanted in the Jewish state, said, made vast promises, and never kept them. It was the same 66 THE SPLENDOUR OF ISRAEL

it had a garrison of perhaps five hundred men who were perma- nently resident. The Arabs destroyed Caesarea. Then for cen- turies there were only a few fishermen's huts among the ruins. Today you can still trace the long aqueduct which brought sweet water to the wells of Caesarea, though most of it is covered with sand. But close to the city the supporting arches of the aqueduct can still be seen. In the twilight it looks like an immense serpent sloughing off its interminable coils. Haifa They were close enough now to make out the details. In the road- stead between Acre and the foot of Mount Carmel huge liners rode at anchor, and beyond the liners could be seen the charming contours of the bay and the mountain. At the northern end there was Acre with its harsh oriental beauty, with its grey castle walls and cupolas and minarets spearing the morning sky, and from Acre to the top of the mountain there were those thousands of white houses and the moun- tain itself was capped with magnificent buildings.

W HEN Herzl wrote these words in 1902, there was scarcely a single house on Mount Carmel and no liners had ever put into the bay. But the memory of Mount Carmel, seen only briefly from a ship's rail, haunted him as no other landscape had ever haunted him. Of Jerusalem he always spoke sombrely, as of a place so ancient that it should be kept as a museum or under glass, and neither Paris nor Rome nor any of the other cities he visited and discussed in his letters drew from him the excitement he reserved for this small town which sheltered at the foot of a green mountain. In Herzl's day the harbour of Haifa had long since been silted up with sand, and the streets, according to a contemporary traveller, were "filthy and wretched beyond description". A colony of German Templars had settled there in the sixties of the last century, outnumbering the pitifully small group of Jewish merchants and the Arabs who sometimes pastured their sheep and goats on the slopes of the mountain. The Templars cultivated the narrow plain near the seashore; there were olive fields, small orchards and occasional palm trees, a few shops, a few lanes of houses huddled together. Herzl saw the thickly wooded mountain turning into a modern city gleaming in the sunset, all stone and marble. He saw great avenues ringing the mountain, and vast public squares "shaded by palms which served as lamp-posts at night, with clusters of lamps hanging from them like glass fruit". He believed Haifa would become a great metropolis "with the safest and most convenient harbour in the Mediterranean". All this he saw with his prophetic eyes, after seeing with his ordinary 68 THE SPLENDOUR OF ISRAEL HAIFA 69 eyes a dismal village on the sea-coast. It is always a mystery when powerful force whose fame reverberated across the Mediter- prophecies are fulfilled. ranean. Vespasian sacrificed to the god when revolving in his Today, when you arrive in Haifa and see that white mountain mind his secret hopes of empire. Tacitus tells the story of how which only sixty years ago was the haunt of leopards and hyenas, Vespasian came to Carmel and heard what he wanted to hear: you wonder whether such things are possible. Haifa has the look of an old city. It is well anchored on its mountain, and does not Between Syria and Judea is Carmel-the name given to a mountain have the bright, new, chromium-plated look of Tel Aviv. It has and to a god. Here there is no image of the god nor any temple : the grown organically, spreading up the mountainside according to traditions of antiquity prescribe only the altar and its sacred associa- the natural laws of growth. At first it grew very slowly, cautiously, tions. throwing up small shoots along the lower ranges of the mountain. Vespasian came here to offer sacrifices and ponder his secret am- The Jewish immigrants arriving from Germany in the I930S bitions. Basilides was the priest, and after repeatedly inspecting the forced the pace a little, so that already by the time of World entrails he said: "Vespasian, whatever you desire, whether it is to build a house or to enlarge your estates or to increase the number of your War II most of the mountain was covered with houses. Now the slaves, all these will be given to you. To you shall be given a vast whole mountain has become a city, which is beginning to spread palace, boundless territories, multitudes of men." over the neighbouring mountains. Whole new settlements have These obscure auguries were soon spread among the populace, and been built on the top of Carmel, and there is no knowing when various attempts were made to interpret them. Indeed, little else was the process will stop. spoken about by the common people; and in Vespasian's presence they Haifa even today is still very largely a German-Jewish city. The discussed the auguries all the more freely because men have more to people go about with the methodical, practical air of German say to men who desire great things. Jews. There is no nonsense about them. In all other towns in Israel life comes to a virtual stop on the Sabbath. In Haifa on the Tacitus is not always reliable when he speaks about theJews- Sabbath the buses are kept running, ships enter the dock, the he had some theories about them which must be among the most funicular railway still operates. It is the largest and best-equipped inaccurate ever recorded-but here he was speaking about seaport in Israel, with the only deep-water harbour, and it is matters which he may easily have learned from members of determined that nothing shall impede the flow of trade. Sig- Vespasian's entourage. The account rings true. Vespasian went nificantly it has acquired a reputation for quiet, unobtrusive on to seize the empire and to become the scourge of the Jews. scholarship, and has more bookshops per street than any other A few months later Jerusalem fell and Judea became a small town in Israel. I found ten bookshops in three blocks on Herzl province under Roman rule. Street, and this may well be the world's record. The pride of But it is not for such stories that we remember Carmel. We Haifa is the technological institute known as the Technion, remember the mountain chiefly because with Hermon and Tabor originally built in I9I2 on the slopes of the mountain, now in a it possesses a particular holiness and a particular beauty. "Thine pine forest on top of the mountain, with a magnificent view of the head upon thee is like Carmel, and the hair of thy head like great bay and the houses clustered along the white slopes. purple," wrote the author of the Song efSongs. The prophet Isaiah Where there are new hotels and gleaming white modern build- speaks of "the excellency of Carmel and Sharon, they shall see ings there were once hermit caves and quiet sanctuaries in the the glory of the Lord". That the green forests on the mountain woods. For centuries Carmel was sacred to Baal Hadad, the should wither, and its fruits perish, is his darkest image of desola- ancient god of the Canaanites, who was Lord of the Heavens, tion. For the ancient Hebrews, Carmel is the emblem of the Maker of Thunder and Rain, and of Fertility; and when the earth's ripeness and blessedness, for while the rest of the country prophet Elijah called upon the priests of Baal to summon down changed to the yellow of death during the heat of summer, fire upon the sacred bull, he was, in order to destroy them, Carmel, luxuriating in its heavy dews, remained unfailingly green. deliberately taunting them with their own sacred symbols-the The green has nearly vanished and the forest has turned into holy fire, the holy bull. Ifit had not been for Elijah, Baal Hadad stone, but somehow the city still suggests ripeness. might have become the ruling god of the Near East. Jehovah Like the new city of Jerusalem, Haifa has all the advantages of conquered, but Baal Hadad never entirely disappeared. He ancient traditions and up-to-the-minute modernity. Elijah and haunted the topmost crags of the mountain, a mysterious and Elisha are almost physical presences ; there are still pilgrimages to THE SPLENDOUR OF ISRAEL HAIFA

Elijah's smoke-blackened cave. Yet sometimes the prophetical might be a very large and well-equipped government experi- voices acquire ironical overtones. "Feed Thy people with Thy mental station until it occurred to me that no government would rod, the flock of Thine inheritance, which dwell solitarily in the build in such a modern style, with such deliberate art in the forest in the midst of Carmel," said the prophet Micah. But "the making of the building. In fact, the yellow building was a house forest in the midst of Carmel" has vanished, and no one can dwell of horror. solitarily on the mountain. The history of this house begins in I949 when a handful of As though the possession of a holy mountain, a beautiful bay, a survivors from the ghettos of Poland and Lithuania settled here rich harbour and a teeming modern city were not enough, Haifa on the Plain of Acre and founded a kibbuts which they called also possesses Acre as a suburb. This is rather like having an Lahamei Hageta'_at, meaning "The Fighters of the Ghettos". They enormous mansion with an exquisite Oriental summerhouse at had brought with them a few pathetic relics and souvenirs of the the bottom of the garden. Acre is the ancient Ptolemai:s, once fighting ~nside the ghettos and the subsequent partisan campaigns. endowed by the luxury-loving Emperor Ptolemy II Philadelphus At first it was to be a very small museum housed in one of the with marble colonnades, libraries and gymnasiums. St. Paul buildings on the kibbuts, but gradually the concept widened to landed there when he went up to Jerusalem for the last time, include relics, archives and photographs concerning the entire saluting the brethren then staying in the town, and spending a history of the extermination of the Jews by the Nazis. It would be day with them. Under the Crusaders it became St. Jean d'Acre, a memorial to the six million dead. It would say what had to be and was held by them for I82 years except for a two-year period said, commemorate what had to be commemorated. It would be, when it fell to Saladin. There, finally, in May, I29I, exactly a as well as human hands could make it, an eternal monument to a hundred years after it had been wrested from Saladin by Richard senseless and intolerable crime. the Lion-Heart, the Moslems took the walls by storm and in a In_side, the yellow building gives an impression of extraordinary single day killed thirty thousand of the defenders. On that day spaciousness. The rooms are palatial, very high, very broad, with ended the Latin Kingdom in the Holy Land. their dark polished floors and well-proportioned windows. One Wandering through Acre today, you would hardly dream that ~arge room contains a scale model of a concentration camp with it was ever a city of importance. The small grey donkeys wind its wretched huts and tall watchtowers; the model is half the size through shadowy streets where the jutting eaves keep out the sun. of the roo~. There are blown-up photographs along the walls, There are streets so dark you can barely see the faces of passers-by here and m all the other rooms. There are scraps of uniform, at noon, and so narrow that even the donkeys must go in single slabs of the black bread fed to the prisoners, proclamations, file. There is the smell of spices. You might be in some small orders. Mostly there are these blown-up and grainy photographs town in Persia or Malaya, so pervasive is the atmosphere of the reproduced from books and newspapers. We see the Jews herded Orient. Then suddenly, you find yourself looking down from into cattle trucks, or walking about the ghettos of Warsaw wear- street level at a vast Crusader church sunk deep in the earth and ing the yellow badge of David, or assembling in the concentration still being excavated, with huge columns like roots which have camps. It is a world of black and white, without depth, without never seen the sun. At such moments, very briefly, you become dimension, soundless and strangely impersonal. They might be aware of the power wielded by the Crusaders. stills from an old movie. It is only with a great effort that one can bring oneself to feel that these photographs represent events that actually happened, that this bath chamber or this smokestack THE HousE OF HORROR formed part of a terrifying engine of destruction, and that these Not far from Acre, along the coastal road, an enormous yellow people looking out calmly from the faded photographs are in building faces the sea. Here the air is sweet, for there are orange agony. groves all round, and the plains are well watered, very green even What was shocking was the sense of unreality, the appalling at the height of summer. A long Turkish aqueduct, biscuit- ineffectiveness of these photographs hanging in these palatial coloured, runs along the road, and through the arches you can rooms. The photographs lied : they left out everything of import- see green fields, tall cypresses, red-roofed houses, silvery water ance. Just as it was impossible to suffer with these ghostly people towers. The yellow building might be a school or a theatre, except in the photographs, so it was impossible to feel any emotion in for the fact that there is no town or village nearby. I thought it front of the loaf of bread, resembling a black cinder, which stood