Source: Bahá'í Library Online (bahai-library.com), curated by Jonah Winters. Used by permission of the curator. Original citation: Lovell Bearse Pemberton, A Modern Pilgrimage to Palestine, bahai-library.com. ────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── MODEL OF THE BAHAI TEMPLE AT CHICAGO, ILLINOIS /Ifcobern pilgrimage to Palestine X. . pemberton Will UluBlrattoitB from pr,QtoorjirjB bg tl|r atrtlior DORRANCE AND COMPANY PUBLISHERS PHILADELPHIA MCMXXV COPYRIGHT 1928 DORRANCE Ok COMPANY INC MANUFACTURED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA preface The reader whether he be of the busy, gentle or otherwise variety has undoubtedly noticed that almost every book is decked out with a preface, and not wish ing to overlook any of the customary rules or amenities, we will endeavor "to keep within the etiquettes." In a general way a preface seems to be a sort of bulwark behind which the author hides, and hastening to set up thereon the names of everybody he can blame for having been implicated in any way whether by urging, advising or assisting the author in writing his book. Looking at it in this way, our task is comparatively easy, as these pages would have remained unwritten if a certain diminutive but persistent editress had not extracted the promise of the first instalment. In this respect ourposition is not unique, as the same thing has often happened before from the very beginning of sacred history the lady has been to blame! We also wish to warn the reader that before reaching The End of the Trail a chapter will be found labeled Hints to Travelers, which we trust will not be taken too seriously. Our only object in mentioning this is to prevent the reader from forming the same opinion as that of a New York critic, who writes that "The Hints to Travelers are most practical!" They were certainly not meant to be so, but were supposed to be taken cum grano salisl preface Finally, it is to be hoped that the following pages will be appreciated and enjoyed by two classes of people, viz.: those who travel, and those who do not. Some of the former, who may enjoy revisiting old scenes; and a better many of the latter, who possibly may have had time by staying comfortably at home, avoiding the monotony of omelettes and spaghetti and the inquis- itiveness of the ubiquitous official. customs Should anyone else, failing to come under either of the above classifications, happen to straggle along, they are equally welcome to climb aboard. For after all the old Spanish proverb is not far wrong when it says: "He who would bring home the wealth of the Indies must carry the wealth of the Indies with him." L. B. P. Contents CHAPTER PAGE I The First Step 13 II London in February 22 III In Gay Paree 27 IV Through Switzerland 33 V Impressions of Italy 40 VI On the Mediterranean 49 VII In the Land of the Pharaohs 56 VIII From Egypt to Palestine 66 IX The New Bahai Temple 74 X What the Bahai Movement Is 82 XI Haifa to Tiberias 90 XII Interviews With Abdul Baha 97 XIII Snapshots on the Sea of Galilee 105 XIV From the Sea of Galilee to Jerusalem 110 XV In Jerusalem 117 XVI Jerusalem Continued 130 XVII Mosque of Omar and the Via Dolorosa 137 XVIII A Day at Bethlehem 143 XIX From the Mount of Olives to Mount Zion ... 150 XX Last Days in Jerusalem 155 XXI From Jerusalem to Cairo 161 XXII Here and There in Cairo 166 XXIII Cairo to Alexandria 172 XXIV How the Pyramids Were Built 178 XXV Woman's Sphere in the Orient 184 XXVI The Future of Bahaism 190 XXVII On the Good Ship Esperia 198 XXVIII From Naples to Paris 202 XXIX A Glimpse of Paris 209 XXX Playgrounds of Children and Kings 218 XXXI From Paris to New York 225 XXXII Hints to Travelers 230 XXXIII Transportation Problems 240 XXXIV Dress, Tips and Guides 252 XXXV The End of the Trail 260 ICfst of Uttustratfons Model of the Bahai Temple at Chicago, Illinois. . .Frontispiece PACING PAGE Looking Down From the Ruins of the Palaces of the Caesars 44 Garden of Rizwan, Near Haifa 92 Abdul Baha 100 The Garden of Gethsemane 121 Statue of Joan of Arc in The Madeleine, Paris 205 H flfoobem pilgrimage to Palestine I The First Step Everyone who makes a journey, if only to the next county, makes a record of the fact. This may take the form of a hurried personal letter, or a picture postcard on the restricted margin of which is found such trite remarks as, "Well here we are!" perhaps, "Having or a glorious time," or something like this, "Just leaving here for X ," all of which is supposed to be read with avidity (and possibly with envy) by the dear ones at home! The point is, travelers write about their travels! At least I have been told that this is the by many case people, including a few publishers (who are undoubtedly well-informed in such matters), by publishers' editors and agents, and by eminent critics, to say nothing of ordinary laymen. In fact, having been told the same thing so many times, and by so many different persons, I have come to the conclusion that it must be true! And I have written the following. so might as well be stated here and now that the It ensuing pages were originally written with two objects in view: to enlighten the home folks on present con ditions abroad, and to enliven the columns of our local paper. Having served to a limited extent its original dual purpose, the "busy reader" is now supposed to take the [13] A Modem Pilgrimage place of the "regular subscriber," and without stopping to comment on whether or not it is the "first step that counts," or expatiate on the proper way to write an introduction, we will haul in the gang-plank of apology, and proceed with our journey. Arriving in New York on January 11th we found the thermometer hovering around ten degrees above zero. A biting gale with it making things very lively espe cially around the old Flat-Iron Building. Our party at that time consisted of Mr. Bourgeois, a prominent architect of New York, and his wife, the eldest daughter of the late Paul de Longpre, and the writer who had been hibernating in California for nearly twenty years. Our cabins had been engaged on the famous German lineriImperatur, thelargest steamer then afloat. Owing to heavy storms which had continued during its entire voyage over from France, it had barely time to dock, make repairs and stock up in time to leave on the return trip. We were four hours late in leaving, but we had no sooner lost sight of land than the weather became mild, and for the whole voyage we had sunshine and regular California climate for which my friends gave me due credit. Our only disappointment was the poor time we were making, due to poor coal with which the vessel had been supplied. After the first day we made about three hundred miles per day, and consequently were nine days in reaching Southampton. Here we boarded a funny little train for London a train of toy-like cars which might have been the inspira- [14] The First Step tion of a certain man who has built several millions of popular automobiles in Detroit, which are now so uni versally used and abused that we saw them in every city we visited, even observing them rambling along the Sea of Galilee. On the journey to London we greatly were impressed by the number and variety chimney-of the tops. An ordinary cottage would have anywhere from twelve to twenty of them, and looking over the villages which were old and very picturesque there was everywhere a forest of chimney-tops of all shapes and sizes. In our hotel in London we found that every room had its fireplace, and all these millions of chimneys were sending up little wreaths of smoke into the dull sky. Sometimes all this smoke returns to earth as we discovered adaysfew later. During our stay in London the sun was kind enough to shine, or rather made a gallant attempt to do so, for a total of about half an hour each day. Between times we were treated to cold fogs and drizzling rain. Under these conditions sight-seeing was rather difficult, but we did our best and went to St. Paul's and twice to Westminster Abbey, although we were unable to see the ceilings of either building on account of the obscur ing gloom and haze. After visiting a few other places of interest, we decided to move on and try to find a little warmth and sunshine. On themorning of our departure, we woke up to find ourselves enveloped in a real London fog some thing that cannot be exaggerated. It was of the famous [15] A Modern Pilgrimage "pea soup" order, absolutely impenetrable to the human eye, and boasting a peculiar flavor not pleasant to taste. Sitting in the taxi it was impossible to see the radiator of the car, and how we managed to safely reach the railroad station will always remain a mystery. We learned later that it was the worst fog Londoners had known for twenty years. The police reported two hun dred accidents on the Strand alone, two street cars collided at Victoria Street Station and over ninety peo ple were injured. All the libraries and museums and many business houses closed for the day and traffic was suspended. We were very grateful, however, that the London weather should have run so more than true to form for our benefits. From London we took the train to Dover and crossed the Channel to Calais, expecting to have a few un pleasant thrills on the way, as the weather had been very rough, but again we were pleasantly disappointed. The water was smooth as a mill-pond and after an hour's ride we reached Calais in good condition. We encountered an army of porters at the dock, our first experience with foreign customs officials, which was thereafter to be oft repeated and much dreaded. For tunately both of my friends spoke French and finally our baggage was inspected, passports vised and we were on our way to Paris. We were on a local train, as the regular boat-train had left with all seats and standing room taken by passengers who proposed to stand five hours rather than wait for the next train, so great was their desire to reach Paris! As that way of traveling [16] The First Step did not appeal to us, we waited a couple of hours for the next train and finally landed at the Hotel Lutetia in Paris at eleven o'clock at night, very tired and exceed ingly hungry. Since the usual breakfast of porridge and marmalade, taken in London, we had been able to secure nothing but a glass of milk and some rolls, so we started out to see what we could find. We soon discovered that in the interest of economy all business houses in Paris closed early and all the res taurants were dark and deserted. Finally we found a Brasserie a place where beer is sold and prevailed on the attendant to make us some coffee and sandwiches. Our trip from Calais to Paris was our first introduc tion to the European custom of dispensing with dining- cars, or even stops for meals everyone being expected to either take their provender along, or fast. Later on we also learned that on certain lines sleeping cars were to be had three times per week, and on other nights, if you wished to sleep, you could do so sitting up, pro vided you had a good conscience and were sufficiently exhausted. After a refreshing sleep on the most wonderful beds in the world started out to explore Paris, and here we we must short-cut; as to attempt a description would take more space than this chapter would permit. Every thing was so wonderful and the people so charming, that Paris remains the most delightful of all the places we visited, and the one place of which I, personally, would never grow tired. Our schedule called for a stop of five days in Paris, which was increased to nine, with [17] A Modem Pilgrimage a promise of three or four more days on the return trip. From Paris we went to Geneva, Switzerland, motored along Lake Geneva to the foot of Mt. Blanc, visited the celebrated watch works and the League of Nations Building, then on to capital of the Swiss Berne, the Republic, where they were holding Parliament in three languages Italian, French and German. Here we vis ited the old bear pit, where four animated emblems of the Swiss Federation are confined. We inspected the famous old clock towers, and in the evening enjoyed a German opera at the Stadt theatre. We found Berne a charming and lively place, more German than French, and very picturesque. Leaving by a morning train, we had a beautiful trip through the snow-covered Alps, and after plunging through twenty-two tunnels among them the famous St. Gotthard we came out into Italy. "Beyond the Alps lies Italy!" But somehow it did not measure up to our high expectations. On reaching Milan, we stopped at the Grand Hotel de Ville, an old "palazzo" converted into a hotel, and after settling ourselves started out for a stroll. After saunter ing along for a few blocks we reached an open square where the great Gothic Cathedral of Milan rose up before us in the moonlight one of the real thrills of the trip. After visiting the Castello, Art Galleries, Museums and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele an arcade formed in the shape of a cross, with shops on all sides and the whole covered with glass we took an evening train to Venice, in our haste neglecting to take along any pro- [18] The First Step visions except a few oranges and some chocolates. Con sequently, when we arrived at Venice and boarded a gondola, we were not in any condition to enjoy our midnight ride of three-quarters of an hour to our hotel on the Grand Canal, where we succeeded in persuading our host to serve us lunch in our rooms. Engaging a gondola the next morning, we passed St. Mark's and the Doge's Palace, visited the Murano Glass Works, the famous Lace Works, and other places of interest. We soon discovered that the smaller the canal the greater was the odor, until finally we were com pelled to return to the hotel, as the odor was not only disagreeable but overpowering. We were assured by our host and others that in two or three months the tide would turn, clean out all the canals and eliminate the odor. But as our time was somewhat limited, we proceeded to Florence, where we spent five very pleasant days and met many charming people. It is claimed that Florence is the intellectual center of Italy and destined to be the birthplace of a "world Renaissance." After having become convinced of this it disconcerting to learn was that three days after we left the city a riot broke out; machine guns were planted in the square in front of our hotel; all trains and street car traffic suspended, the city placed under martial law and no one was allowed to leave. From Florence we went to Rome. Arriving in the evening we decided to see St. Peter's by moonlight. It was not an easy task to explain to the cabman that [19] A Modern Pilgrimage we wanted simply to take a ride out to St. Peter's at that time of night, but we finally managed to put it across and started. Just before we reached there, how ever, the moon hid behind a cloud and remained there, so that the cabman's doubts as to our wisdom in making the trip were fully justified. On the following day we visited a few of the eleven thousand rooms of the Vatican, the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's, with its immense circular colonnade. But most of the three hundred and sixty-five churches which are scattered all over Rome we had to pass by and content ourselves with inspecting the old ruins the Coliseum, Baths of Caracalla, Caesar's Palaces and the Forum. We stood on the spot, now covered with ruins, where Caesar stood amidst the Roman Senators on the fatal day when he was stabbed. A few hundred feet below us the old Appian Way, its battered triumphal arches and fragments of marble columns sad commentaries on the transitoriness of earthly power and grandeur! At the same time we were struck with the providence of the Romans in preserving so many old things for the pleas ure and benefit of the modern world acres of ancient ruins, art galleries, museums and gorgeous churches in which only one or two services are held each year; but open at all times to every sight-seer. From Rome to Naples is a pleasant ride of four hours by train; but with the exception of the Bay and Mt. Vesuvius, we found nothing there to claim our particular interest not even a night drive down Spaghetti Alley, [20] The First Step from which Dante might have gathered much inspira tion for his Inferno! From Naples we took the steamer Milano across the Mediterranean, and after delightful voyage a of four and a half days landed at Alexandria, Egypt, where we enjoyed our first contact with the Orient. [21] II London in February proceeding with our journey it might be well Before to pause for a moment and gather up a few experiences and impressions of the countries through which we had just passed. Naturally, these must be somewhat cursory, as our limited time did not permit us to study any of these countries in detail, but by careful consideration we soon learned to economize and cover considerable ground in a short time. Our usual procedure on arriving at a new hotel was to fill out the necessary blanks required by the police department, stating our names in full, age, name of father and mother, birthplace, present home address, name of place from which we had just come, destination, the reasons for our coming and going, and various other knotty and stupid questions. This took some apparently little time, as, except in England, the blanks were Italian. Finally, if in printed in either French or we tended staying beyond a certain time, usually from three to five days, our passports had to be handed over for inspection by the police department. While these preliminaries were being arranged we had set the concierge busy securing a guide and con more satisfactory to fee the veyance, having found it and let him hire everything and concierge properly, settle all bills, as there is everywhere a strong tendency [22] London in February to overcharge and occasionally short-change the unwary stranger. Then with the aid of the guide and concierge a list was prepared of the finest streets, most prominent buildings and other places of interest, together with the most direct way of reaching them. After a two or three days' tour, conducted along these lines, a good general idea of the city was obtained, and afterwards we were able to browse around more leisurely and intelligently by ourselves. But we started out to say something about conditions which we found existing in the various countries, and before doing so wish to state that we are recording simply our impressions and the things we happened to see whichno doubt will differ from what anyone else may have experienced. Any little criticisms that may creep in are intended, not as fault-finding, but as foot notes to actual showing what particularly occurrences, impressed passing group of a inquisitive Americans. In London except for the big fog, which was the piece de resistance, the principal thing that attracted our attention was the tenacity of the English in clinging to old, and to our minds, antiquated, methods of doing busi ness. Their monetary system of pounds, shillings and pence requires pencil, paper, complicated calculation and considerable time to make up an ordinary bill; while the Bank of England notes, printed on tough but plain white paper increasing in size as the denomination in creases make an awkward and bulky package in con trast to our currency. If you step on the drug-store scales to be weighed, you marvel at registering only [23] A Modem Pilgrimage 40 which you find is stones, and must be translated into pounds before you can determine whether you are gaining or losing. In London we had our first introduction to narrow thoroughfares, many of them with sidewalks not over three feet wide, while the street itself measured from ten to twelve feet from curb to curb. Naturally the pedestrians took to the middle of the road and chances in dodging the cabs and taxis. Greater still was our surprise, in walking through the shopping district, to see the store windows being stripped of everything at closing time and heavy, corru gated iron shutters pulled down over the windows and locked for the night making the shops look like a row of warehouses, illuminated only by the dim gas lights on the street. Window shopping in the evening is out of the question all through Europe and in Egypt, as practically all the stores were equipped with these iron shutters. One London custom very perplexing to us, and was only after a narrow escape from being run down did we fully realize that traffic regulations in England are the reverse of ours vehicles passing along the left side of the street and turning to the left, instead of to the right. We were surprised at the number of "Bobbies" stationed in the middle of the street, on the street cor ners, and in the middle of the blocks. In fact, you never seemed to get out of sight of a policeman in downtown London. All of which was very convenient, as they were very civil and ready to answer questions or give [24] London in February directions.Occasionally they had an amusing habit of pompously turning on their heel and, with extended palm, remarking, "I've done ye a favor, 'aven't I?" a question which was mos,t satisfactorily answered by a small coin. The enormous street traffic in London is remarkably well handled and we seldom saw a jam or collision of any sort which was little short of miraculous, consider ing the multitude and variety of vehicles pouring into the main thoroughfares at all angles. While there are several streetcar lines, mostly in the outlying sections, and a few subways, the main downtown traffic is handled by cabs, taxis and two-story busses, from the tops of which a good view of the streets can be had. But, to the stranger, it is rather confusing, as these busses are equipped with identical signs at both ends, and you don't know whether they are coming or going, unless you make inquiries. It was somewhat surprising to see smoking permitted in the subways and a fine of eight pounds for "spitting on the floor," other parts of the car evidently free for all! This seemed very mild in comparison with the New York subways, where both smoking and expecto rating are prohibited under penalty of five hundred dollars fine or imprisonment or both. These are of course small and trivial things, but simply show the difference in customs little details that attracted our attention. We were also impressed with the fact that, so far as personal liberty was concerned, everyone was permitted [25] A Modern Pilgrimage to go about and do pretty much as he pleased. There was neverany brutal show or incivility on the part of those in authority, and this feeling of absolute freedom was one of the most pleasant features of our stay in London. We saw of the recent war except little to remind us the Soldiers' and Sailors' Memorial, not far from Tra falgar Square, and the grave of the Unknown Soldier in Westminster Abbey, both of which were banked with beautiful flowers and continually thronged with hun dreds of visitors. One other incident recalled the war to our minds. Returning from Buckingham Palace we passed a large and impressive building at the entrance to Waterloo Place, and were curious to know what it was. We asked a "Bobbie," who explained that it was "Kaiser Bill's Palace," and added with a grin, "But he's not occupyin' it just now." Here, as in every city we visited, some particular the thing seemed to stand out prominently and typify embodied in place. To me the spirit of England was the four huge lions by Landseer at the foot of Nelson's Column in Trafalgar Square. Those impressive beasts, the mass of looking placidly out over the Square and people moving about in all directions, vividly impress on one's mind the dignity, solidity and power of the continues on its way English nationwhich quietly regardless of all obstacles. [26] Ill In Gay Paree Our recollections of France will always include a humorous picture presented itself that as we were landing at Calais. glided up to its anchor As the boat age, we discovered the pier lined with a hundred or more porters in caps and long blue blouses, shouting in French and wildly gesticulating. This mass of blue blouses kept bobbing up and down, the men animating them trying to attract the attention of the passengers and all the time pointing to a large disc, containing a number, suspended around their necks. It reminded one of a Punch and Judy show, only it was a lot noisier. The old chap we selected rushed on board and was not satisfied with draping himself about with seven suit cases, two overcoats, two Boston bags, one brief case and an umbrella, but also insisted volubly that there was plenty of room about him for a few cameras, a roll of drawings and several other small pieces of hand luggage. It was extraordinary to see long lines of these porters staggering along under huge iron trunks, and I can readily believe they would tackle anything up to a grand piano. Our next impression on finally reaching Paris was far from humorous; in fact, it was one of sadness. If there ever was such a place as "Gay Paree," it was no longer in evidence and I am of theopinion that the [27] A Modem Pilgrimage general idea of Paris, held especially among Americans, is entirely erroneous. While everyone seemed intent on his own business, there was no lack of courtesy, and there was also no evidence of frivolity or anything approaching it. Taken on the whole, Paris was by great odds the cleanest, most beautiful and most interesting city we visited on our whole trip. Utility seemed always combined with artistic beauty. Smooth, clean streets lined with beau tiful buildings of uniform height generally with man sard roofs, making the buildings seem lower than they really are, and rows of shade trees at each side, even in many of the business streets showed with what rare ability the city had been planned, especially when the streets opened out on beautiful gardens and parks filled with statuary, or on public memorial squares. As in London, the streets were filled with a seething swarm of cabs, taxis and motor busses; but, fortunately for us, they all passed on the right side of the street, and the only difficulty was for the pedestrian to break through. This generally required two operations, the first jump to the safety islands in the middle of the street, followed by a later rush to the other side. Street cars, or trams, as they are called, operate out side the main business section only, and are conducted by brisk women in natty uniforms, who are replaced at night by young men or boys. The subways are somewhat better than those in Lon don or New York, cleaner, brighter and better ventilated, while the cars run more smoothly and with less noise. [28] In Gay Paree The only real difficulty we had in Paris was in getting accustomed to their petit dejeuners, or light breakfasts, which consist of coffee and rolls a rather insufficient ballast with which to commence the day's work. It re quired a lot of conversation on our part to convince the waiter that really wanted something to eat; but at we any other time of the day the meals were limited only by the price we wished to pay. The quantity, quality and service left nothing to be desired and the cooking was excellent, but when it came to the patisserie it was easy to see why the French are famous for their pastry. My personal preference between a patisserie shop and a book store could only be decided by the time of day and whether or not I had just dined. And the confiserie, or sweet shop! No one who has ever tasted their marron glace can possibly resist it. In the restaurants we marveled at first at the leisure with which the French consumed and enjoyed their mid day meal. This was soon explained by the fact that the banks and principal business houses close from twelve to two p. m. daily, and even the sidewalk vendors pack up their wares and suspend operations long enough to enjoy a quiet lunch. In addition to this daily breathing spell Monday is generally observed as cleaning day all public buildings are closed for the day and in the larger stores it is not on this account a favorable day forshopping. Sunday was one of the best days for sight-seeing indoors, as all the public museums and galleries are [29] A Modem Pilgrimage kept open as long as, or longer, than on week days, and are thronged with visitors. One thing in Paris that interested me greatly was the number and variety of book stores, in which we occasionally saw a good collection of English and American books on sale, in authorship ranging from Dickens to Ella Wheeler Wilcox. Most unique of all these was an outdoor book store on the Seine embank ment not far from the Gare D'Orleans. This narrow but lengthy establishment consisted of a long row of shallow boxes covered with galvanized iron and attached to the coping of the stone embankment. It extended along the sidewalk for a distance of five or six hundred feet. Overhead was the blue sky showing through the budding branches of the overhanging trees; just below was the Seine, beyond which lay the Louvre and the Garden of the Tuileries. A charming place to stop and browse! And here impecunious bookworm was constantly the seen, passing along from box to box, poking around a varied collection which seemed to contain among almost everything that had ever been published, from cheap, paper-covered novels to rare old editions, not to mention engravings, colored prints and sheet music. I happened to pass by there one day just as it was starting to rain, and the proprietor was showing extraor dinary and unexpected speed as he rushed along shut ting down the lids of his long book store, then parking himself under an umbrella to wait until the storm had passed by. Another interesting scene was the markets of peasant [30] In Gay Paree women in the boulevards adjoining the residence sec tion, one of which happened to be on the beautiful Boulevard Raspail near our hotel. Two-wheel push carts, loaded with all kinds of fruits, vegetables and fresh meats, were hauled by these sturdy women from their homes in the country and lined up at daybreak ready for business. Although some of them, the potato carts in particular, looked like a good load for an average horse, and had been trundled for miles, the husky pro prietors looked fresh as daisies, and were bustling around disposing of their wares so as to reach home in time to start back with another load for the next morn ing. When busy not with customers they filled in the time by making up a supply of paper sacks out of old sheet music, newspaper and other odd bits of paper, and thus getting even with the sack trust. All over France the word THRIFT seems to be spelled with capital letters. There is no waste either of time or materials.Everything is picked up and worked up. All through the country every house has its neat garden and a few fruit trees; the walks are clean and the roads look as if they had just been swept with a broom. When a tree is chopped down in the forest, even the twigs are tied up in neat bundles and sold to the bakers for baking bread, while every square foot of tillable ground is under cultivation. Compared with the wasteful and slovenly methods which obtain in the rural districts of our own country, such national habits of neatness and economy pointed a very valuable object lesson. And now we are about to step off into rather deep [31] A Modem Pilgrimage water; but it seems a necessary step, as no article on Paris would be complete without a few words on the subject of fashions particularly fashions in feminine apparel. While the writer does not profess to be a con noisseur, or to have had any special training as a fashion expert, a few words will sum up his observations in this direction, and we have no hesitation in saying that, in the matter of dress, we found New York more Parisian than Paris, or what we expected Paris to be. With the exception of the tourists, the women's dresses were simple, plain and conservative, while, most surprising of all, there was an almost total absence of facial make-up. Wishing to see a typical French audience, we chose a Sunday evening to attend a performance of Faust at the famous Grand Opera House. You can imagine our surprise, when we entered the gorgeous auditorium, and saw it filled with men in ordinary business suits and women in black; not a decollete costume in the whole theatre, with the exception of those worn by perhaps forty elaborately dressed English and American tourists. These, as someone remarked, wore costumes "suitable either for an opera or an operation." On the streets and elsewhere, the Parisians themselves dress conservatively. very By this I do not mean shabbily, for although the men in general seemed to pay little attention to their personal appearance, the women invariably look stylish and charming. [32] IV Through Switzerland Compared with France our trip through Switzerland was devoid of incidents our sensations being somewhat like those of a person used to a regular table d'hote when he finds himself face to face with a lunch counter. Switzerland's long suit consisting of scenery, one is unless he hap apt to get fed up in a very short time, pens to outdoor enthusiast and willing to keep be an on raving over a procession of barren but well advertised peaks covered with snow. Our first stop was Geneva, and Sunday afternoon we strolled down by the lake and studied the natives, who were all out for an airing on the Quai du Mont Blanc a wide promenade lined with a sort of sycamore trees with flat, scraggy tops, that look very odd and pictur esque. These Genevans were a husky, ruddy-cheeked lot, and their favorite form of outdoor sport seemed to be wheeling enormously high baby carriages. While the view of Mont Blanc failed to produce much of a thrill, the lake was very beautiful. I had one very amusing experience at Geneva, the of which was not apparent until I full significance reached home. On presenting a sheaf of letters at the hotel desk I was told they were temporarily out of leave the letters stamps would stamps, but if I would amount added be procured, the letters mailed, and the [33] A Modern Pilgrimage to my bill. You can imagine my surprise when I dis covered, on reaching home, that the smallest stamp known to the Swiss P. O. had been affixed and each of my friends had to pay eight cents overdue postage for the questionable pleasure of hearing from me. When I stood a few days later in Berne, admiring the beautiful statue they had erected to the Postal Union, I did not realize at that time to what base uses the thrifty hotel- keeper at Geneva had put this glorious Postal Union, in order to extract thereby a few petty centimes! When visiting the famous watch works of Vacheron & Constantin, founded in 1785, and apparently winners of all the medals and prizes ever awarded since 1840, we were astounded at the marvelous machinery, operated largely by women and a few men who had grown grey in the service. Plainly there was no "hire and fire" system in vogue here, and the superintendent explained that the trade was handed down from father to son and that was the reason of their great success. Owing to the fact that the cheapest watcli they make is sold for seven hundred and fifty francs f. o. b. factory, we decided to look a little further before making any purchases. We observed that many of the hotels at which we stopped had formerly boasted formidable German names, such as the Schtwizerhof, etc., which were now camou Suisse or Hotel des flaged as the Hotel International, doubt, to some miscalculations made Princes, owing, no three four years ago by or the general staff at Berlin. Nevertheless, the hotels were good and well conducted, even if they did skim off a little extra in the matter of [34] Through Switzerland postage or their favorite item of chauffage, when the only fire had been at all interested in we was the one in the kitchen range. In passing through the country everything looked neat and clean and even the fields tidied up as though were everybody expecting company. As this part of the was work is attended to by the peasant women, it was, of course, a thorough job. In Berne it was rather odd to see a man and his dog harnessed to. a cart, jogging along through the streets with the morning's supply of milk or other produce. We found it very interesting to visit the street market in front of the famous old clock tower, which is flanked on each side by picturesque old buildings that look as if they might have been erected very soon after the found ing of the city in 1191. Stretched in the middle of the wide street were long tables piled up with all kinds of produce which the gaily attired peasants had brought in for sale; while along the curb rival peddlers and a few fakers were prepared to relieve the peasants of their newly acquired coin, or do business with any passerby who happened to be susceptible. The city of Berne has carefully preserved its old-world charm and considered "the heart of Switzerland." is Among the attractive medieval features are its bridges, towers and gates, as well as its buildings and quaint, red-tiled houses, nestling on the hillsides along the river Aar. The view from the high terrace back of the Parlia ment Buildings, with the river winding below and the snow-covered Alps in the distance, Jungfrau looming up [35] A Modem Pilgrimage in the center, make a picture long to be remembered. In the guide book the visitor is requested not to miss seeing the W eltpostdenkmal, Zahijngerdenkmel, Erlack- denkmal and Bubenbergdenkmal, the Stampfli and Haller- denkmal, but whether we saw them all I will never tell, and, if so, I do not remember them by their full names. The Arcades form an interesting feature, as the upper stories of the buildings rest on massive columns and arches and extend out to the curb line. This arrange ment, however, is more artistic than practical, as the little stores and shops are consequently poorly lighted. At Geneva we spent an evening listening to a comedy they had opera in German, and in French, but at Berne must have got down to business early in the evening, as the front of the house was deserted when we arrived and it was like breaking into jail to find anyone to show us to our seats. The performance was very enjoyable and apparently well done, as the rest of the audience seemed to approve. What interested me particularly was the immense orchestra, a large number of whom were womenand all playing together in perfect har mony ! The opera was based on an incident that occurred during the French Revolution, and it was a rather queer coincidence that we should see the same thing, but by a different author and under another name, sung in Italian at Florence a few evenings later. schools. Attendance pride of Switzerland is her The to the age of at the primary schools is compulsory up also compul fourteen years, and supplementary courses, sory, bring the backward ones up to the required stand- [36] Through Switzerland ing before their military service begins. They claim that inability to read and write is unknown. These schools are free of charge of any kind, either for tuition or materials. It was interesting to learn that the dead languages have given place to modern tongues, and that English is now taught in place of Greek. In some can tons the school term runs along for forty-five weeks, although in the Alpine districts it is shortened to from twenty-four to thirty weeks. The Swiss point with pride to the fact that it is not unusual for an agricultural com mune, with only two or three thousand inhabitants, to build a school building costing a hundred thousand dollars. As there are three national languages, Italian, French and German, it would seem that a Swiss school teacher must be something of a linguist. As Berne preponderantly German, we found it is almost impossible to do any shopping, except with the aid of the French members of our party; in fact, the knowledge of French is a valuable asset and everywhere on our trip we found it to be practically a universal language. Our exit from Switzerland, at Chiasso, was as amus besides ing as had been our entrance in France, at Calais, throwing a side light on the characteristics of the genus Americano. The size of our party had increased at Paris, now num increased bering four, and our array of luggage had but with the aid of a few valorous porteurs accordingly, on the inspection tables our luggage was soon spread out [37] A Modem Pilgrimage ready for the ordeal of a customs examination, when I heard close by a commotion between a courier for the A. E. F. and a bewhiskered inspector. The latter was recklessly reeling off yards of Italian and German and the former was indulging in vigorous U. S. vernacular. The row was over four packs of cigarettes, not declared by the owner, but which the said inspector had found on opening his suit case. Neither one could understand the other, the offender offering, with violent protests and many vigorous oaths, to pay the necessary duty and penalty, while the other was reiterating the fact that he would have to pay. The object of the soldier was obviously to divert the mind of the inspector and get his valise closed up again as soon as possible. The inspector was jubilant as he finally marched the lad over to the pay counter; but the joke was really on him, as the young man who hap pened to be a Los Angeles boyconfessed to us a little later that he had sixty other packs of cigarettes con cealed in his valise, which he succeeded in getting across the border free of duty. I heard of another little incident which shows how our fellow countrymen go about things when they mean American rushed into business. In this case a bustling of first-class car where two English the compartment a men were seated, and presently, pulling out an old, to enjoy a smoke. One highly pipe, proceeded flavored and in of the Englishmen offered vigorous objection to formed him that he ought to know it was contrary As this had no the rules to smoke in a first-class car. [38] Through Switzerland effect, he threatened to call the guard and have the offender put off the car. At the next station the Amer ican managed to see the guard first, and informed him that an Englishman in his compartment was traveling first-class on a second-class ticket, whereupon the guard proceeded to remove the gentleman to another car, and quiet reigned. Presently the other Englishman remarked: "That was deucedly clever of you, old chap, but how did you hap pen to know he had a second-class ticket?" "Easy enough," replied the American, as he filled his pipe again, "his ticket was the same color as mine!" [39] V Impressions of Italy When we purchased our through tickets from Paris to Naples, the agent advised us to travel second-class in Switzerland, thereby saving a few francs, but by all means to go first-class through Italy. We found his advice excellent, and although we remained in the same car, found, as soon as we crossed the frontier, that we we now traveling strictly first-class. were This was accomplished by simply changing a small label by the door of our compartment. Later on we learned that on regular a Italian train conditions at the best were poor enough, and at the risk of being a little too realistic I will mention a few particulars. In the first place, there is but one RiHrata, or wash room, to the car, and it belongs to whoever happens to get there first. This room contains but one fixture, a dirty corner wash basin that lets down from the wall, into which you pump water, if there happens to be any; but usually, an hour or so after starting on your jour empty, and remains so. This, with a ney, the tank is a fixture was large round hole in the floor, to which once probably attached, is all the room contains, except half an inch or so of water, which sloshes around over the floor. If you happen to become thirsty or dirty, reach your destination, as no you remain so until you soap, ice water, drinking cups or any other con towels, veniences are found anywhere beyond the Alps. [40] Impressions of Italy Practically all European cars have a long corridor the full length of the car, and are divided into compartments, each one seating either six or eight persons, classed in Italy as fumatori and non-fumatori. If you are in the latter class and wish to smoke, you can either stand in the corridor and smoke, or bribe the guard to let you have his seat at the end of the car. Fortunately, I found that lira, four cents, one usually gets his seat, and a few matches as well. As coal is scarce in Italy, it is not unusual to see a tender attached to the locomotive loaded with cordwood, supplying fuel for the train. The cars and equipment generally are in a very bad condition, and with the present rate of exchange, the price of new equipment and repairs is prohibitive. Owing to the scarcity of cars the ladies are fortunate if they can all secure seats, while the men gallantly stand outside in the corridor, or perch on the stray pieces of luggage that are stacked here and there. But no one grumbles, and if the train starts half an hour late it will only be half an hour late in arriving, provided it does not lose another hour or so on the way, which is usually a good, safe bet. Anyway, we made our entrata into Italy, and were rolling along briskly it being down grade! Below us were beautiful valleys and occasionally we caught a glimpse of a narrow, white stripe revealing an old Roman road. Here and there were quaint old houses of stone, roofed with thin, irregular slabs of split stone, and sur rounded with old vineyards, the vines trained on wires [41] A Modem Pilgrimage forming fantastic arbors. Even the fence posts in this part of Italy are of stone slabs drilled to support wire fencing. There was nothing combustible except the meagre furniture inside the houses, and I imagine that insurance agents are an unknown as well as an un necessary quantity in this section of the country. In a little over two hours after leaving the Italian frontier at Chiasso we arrived at Milan, and then our troubles began. We all wanted ice cream, and none of us knew the proper name for it in that country. But we bravely struck out and fortune smiled on us, as we soon found a place where the waiter understood a little French. As we entered, the orchestra struck up the al Factotum from the Barbiere di Siviglia, and Largo we all felt quite at home! But the interesting and edu cational part of the performance came when we tried to pay our bill. The waiter looked at both sides of the money, held it up to the light, and finally took it to the we concluded there must manager for his approval, so be some spurious currency afloat, and were thereafter on our guard. One of the principal attractions we had been looking forward to in Milan was a performance at the La Scala celebrated in Theatre, one of the largest and most Europe, where so many famous artists have appeared. we found it had been closed for some time Unfortunately, with hearing for repairs and had to content ourselves later. the company at Florence a few evenings Of all the countries we visited, Italy makes by far the railroad stations, the bravest show of soldieryat [42] Impressions of Italy onthe streets and in the trains, soldiers seemed to be moving about everywhere, and certainly make a strik ing sight with their grey uniforms and long military capes. We were by the great number of clocks struck next to be seeneverywhere, building after building; but on they are evidently intended only as ornaments, as none of them were running. The next most frequently en countered sight, especially in Rome, were bands of various religious orders, marching in different colored vestments and with such odd-shaped hats one would never imagine a piece of masculine headgear could be molded into so many different contraptions. I was often "joshed" by the other members of our party because of my desire to make a collection of native hats, especially the old and interesting ones; but when I saw this wide variety I lost heart, as I remembered that the ocean liners restrict you to twenty cubic feet of baggage, and thought it more feasible to take up some other line, such as moderate-sized pyramids or some of those noisy little Italian motor cars of the kindergarten type. While there was a prevalence of soldiers, clocks and monks, there was a great scarcity of good bread, fruits, refined sugar, fresh meats, etc. bread, while it The war bread, was much of our own forcibly reminded us had ever been, and the fruit, poorer in quality than ours especially the apples and pears, was such as could not be graded in an American packing house; but no matter how small and knotty they happened to be, the flavor was always surprising. [43] A Modern Pilgrimage One thing in Milan, however, struck us as being ade quate, a bronze statue in front of the Academy. It represents Napoleon as a Roman Emperor; but the sculptor, Canova, in order to symbolize the fame and power of his subject, gives him a splendid but imaginary physique several times too large for the Little Corporal. There are many other very beautiful statues, especially the of Leonardo da Vinci in the Piazza de la Scala, one which is a wonderful and impressive piece of work. And here in the Santa Maria delle Grazie is this artist's most celebrated painting, "The Last Supper," now unfortu nately almost faded away. Passing on to Venice, we found at least one feature there that was right up to our highest expectations, for their gondoliers are all that has ever been claimed for them, a fine, sturdy, good-natured lot, who act as guide, officer all megaphone-artist, engine, pilot and traffic rolled into one. As you glide along one of the narrow canals, you see but on ahead a hopeless jam of barges and gondolas; reaching the spot, you hear a little vigorous language room enough for you and, in some miraculous way, just to glide through is made, and then perhaps you whirl into the corner of a build a still narrower canal, just missing of a quarter of an inch. But ing by the narrow margin that although they come the interesting part of it is is to miss, and so skillfully close, they always manage craft the gondolier and his it managed that it seems Their deep, guttural cry, announcing their are one approach and indicating in which direction they expect [44] LOOKJNd DOWN KKOM THE RUINS. Ol'' TIIK PALACKS OK THK C.KSAU Impressions of Italy to turn, echoes weirdly down the narrow streets, and, in the moonlight, is strangly moving and romantic. We were surprised to find how much of Venice could be seen without the use gondolas. There are only of about one fifty canals in the whole city, hundred and over which there are about four hundred bridges, and the intervening spaces have streets much like any other Italian city. From this time on it was part of the day's work to become used to odors, as each city maintains its own peculiar aroma, and very often this never-to-be- forgotten fragrance differs from block to block, so that the wayfarer, though he be deaf, dumb and blind, could not be mistaken in his whereabouts. We often found ourselves wondering if the American public is not a little over-particular and super-sensitive in the matter of disinfection and sanitation, especially when we noticed the open-air comfort stations in. some of these Italian cities placed in the alley, not over ten feet from the main street and consisting merely of a narrow a building, connected with a hole groove in the side of in the pavement. This is sometimes, but rarely, shielded on the street side by a narrow slab about one foot wide it needs no sign to designate it. by four feet high; but we learned in Italy, that the ideas we had One thing formed ofthings needed considerable revision. many of Among other surprises was the general appearance the country. Instead of the neat little farms, or beau tiful old villas surrounded by flowers, orange trees, etc., we found much of the land uncultivated and not even one the impression of a new inclosed by fences, giving [45] A Modern Pilgrimage and undeveloped country rather than an ancient one presenting the appearance of an old mine almost worked out and practically abandoned. In no part of Italy did we see the intensive farming of France, or the quaint cottages and well-kept gardens. Florence and Rome were each so rich in history and incident that to tell of them would require a separate article, so we will pass on to Naples and then resume our journey. In going anywhere in Italy, or the Orient, it is well to inquire if the train you wish to take runs on Sunday, as many of the train schedules have a sudden respect for the Ten Commandments and suspend operations on the Sabbath day. At each step of our journey we added some piece of information to our slender store. Just now it happened to be in regard to the way hotel reservations are handled "over there." Before leaving Florence, we had tele graphed ahead to Rome ; but were coolly informed by the concierge on our arrival that there were no vacancies. We asked for the manager, who appeared and acknowl edged that he had received our telegram, but expected us on the morning train, and as we had not arrived then (which was impossible) he had rented our rooms. How ever, he kindly placed his one remaining room at our disposal, and when we remonstrated that this was hardly feasible for a party consisting of a man and his wife and two other men, he hotly retorted that we could all go and sleep in the Pincio, a public park, etc., etc.!! Finally matters cooled down, and we were fitted out with his [46] Impressions of Italy one remaining room and temporary beds in a back parlor until the next day. Finding that telegraphing ahead for hotel rooms was not entirely satisfactory in this part of the world, we decided to trust to luck at Naples, and found, on reach ing that city, that because we had not telegraphed they were unable to accommodate us. After a little inquiry we found a very good hotel with an elevator which ran long enough to get us up to our rooms. This is not altogether unusual on the Continent at present, as this part of the hotel equipment generally operates only long enough to accommodate the incoming guests, and then immediately goes out of business until the next day, when a new batch of arrivals appear. In the intervening hours you are expected to read the "Out of Order" sign and trudge up and down four or five flights of stairs. After a few more experiences we learned there was another interesting consequence to engaging your hotel accommodations in advance; you were always charged the highest rates. In addition to getting a varied experience along com mercial lines, we thoroughly enjoyed the art and archi tecture of Italy, which are worthy of anyone's attention, whether particularly interested in these lines or not. But I could not make myself believe that the sky is any bluer, or the sunsets any more gorgeous than those on the Pacific especially when viewed from the terraces of our own home town! [47] VI On the Mediterranean Before leaving Naples we must not overlook two other little incidents that throw an interesting sidelight on our impressions of Italy. One of the first chores we did at Rome was to take our passports to the Police Department to secure per mission to leave the country; but the matter dragged along, and finally we were told that we had made a serious mistake in not reporting in person to the police soon enough after coming into Italy, and it would be necessary for us to return to the frontier and do it all over again. As the boat on which we had secured our passage sailed in two days, things began to look rather serious. Finally the guide managed to signal us to slip him fifteen lira (sixty cents), which he passed to the police official, and we were surprised to see all objections suddenly waived, and our passports handed to us in less than an hour. It was amazing what quick results so small a bribe could accomplish! But this Roman official was a mere novice, a clumsy amateur, compared with another member of the force at Naples, who, instead of being contented with a mere trifle, planned on taking the whole pile. This second incident occurred on the boat. After my passport had been inspected, I was accosted by a rather surly-looking gentleman in uniform, who wanted to inspect my pocket- [48] On the Mediterranean book and look all my private papers to see what I over was taking of out the country. To all this I demurred, until the agent of the Steamship Company assured me that the man was acting within his rights, and I had better comply with his request. So I produced my big black pocketbook and saw him contemptuously pass over my perfectly good American, English and French money, and finally lift out nearly one thousand lira of paper money (worth about forty dollars in United States currency), which he laid on the table in front of him, curtly informing me that according to law I had no right to take any money out of that country. He then motioned for the next man in line to advance and be held up, whereupon I reached over the table, picked up my little old one thousand lira, walked out of the room, and stayed out ! ,A couple of hours later, when I assured myself from a place on the upper deck that the safe officials leaving the boat, I came down and was were told that the aforesaid police official had been inquiring for me; but as he had not been able to find me, he had kindly consented to let the matter drop. I feebly ex pressed my appreciation of such courteous treatment from one who was a total stranger, and began to feel relieved, as I saw that our boat was now actually leaving the soil of Grande Italia. An hour or so later I felt still more relieved when all I could see was the smoke curling up above Vesuvius, and below it the dim outline of Pompeii. While we deeply regretted being unable to stop at Capri and visit the Blue Grotto, we planned on rolling [49] A Modem Pilgrimage out about four o'clock and Stromboli in action, so see we retired rather early, expecting to be called. But that they were evidently out of four o'clock calls on boat, for when I awoke about six a. m., we were entering the Straits of Messina, and presently Mt. Aetna loomed up in the distance. With a faint wreath of smoke con tinually heaving out of it, one could readily see how appropriate it was as a trade-mark for various insurance In companies, especially those dealing with fire-risks. this respect it seemed to have an edge on Gibraltar, while its majestic appearance makes Mt. Vesuvius look likea sideshow attraction. So far, in fact, all the way to Alexandria, the sea was calm and beautiful, the air cool and crisp, like California in winter. Our first stop was at Catania, Sicily, where we tarried for four hours, while they loaded enough brimstone on our vessel to start a fair-sized inferno. Finally, to our great relief, the hatches were battened down and we proceeded on our way. During our stop at Catania we strolled some distance down the pier to inspect one of those painted carts for which the peasants of Sicily are famous. While admiring the elaborate carving, the figures and landscapes painted on the body of the cart, and the highly decorated har ness, etc., a crowd of curious natives also gathered to inspect the crazy foreigners who were making such a fuss over nothing. This crowd attracted the attention of a gendarme, or whatever they call them in that country, who proceeded to inquire from us who we [50] On the Mediterranean were, where we came from, what we were doing there, and what we meant by collecting a crowd. They are evidently not in favor of crowds there, over while heso was considering what would be the best thing to do with us, we suddenly decided to settle the matter by beating a hasty retreat to the boat, with the officious policeman tagging at our heels. Unfortunately we did not reach Syracuse until six o'clock in the evening, too late to visit the ruins and the old Greek and Roman theatres there. This part of our trip seemed to go by fours, as we were four hours late in leaving Naples, stopped four hours at Catania, four hours at Syracuse, were delayed four hours at Alexandria and it required a little over four days make the voyage. to But this gave ample time for making acquaintances, which is the principal attraction of traveling on the water, when the elements behave themselves, and you do not have to worry over what is about to happen to you, or be kept in suspense as to whether you would prefer to exchange the of the present for the agonies doubtful torments of the hereafter. Speaking of acquaintances, we had at our table during the Mediterranean trip a noted archeologist and his wife, on their way to Palestine to perfect arrangements for excavating a buried city; Father B a prominent , and superior-general of the Paulist Fathers in priest New York City; facing us an archbishop of Beyrout, and at our right a brother of the ruling Pasha of Egypt and former commander-in-chief of the Egyptian army, [51] A Modem Pilgrimage who was just returning from a six years' exile to Spain, where he had been interned by the English. The latter was avery well-informed man, and we had several in teresting chats on world conditions, during which the merits and manifestations of Bolshevism and socialism were discussed. I especially interested in his plan was for the prevention of wars, and at the risk of digressing a little will briefly describe it: During a former campaign in Egypt his army was encamped near a well in the desert, on the opposite side of which lay the forces of the enemy. An arrangement had been made whereby the soldiers of each army might visit this well at differ ent hours in order to get water. Happening to visit this well one day, he found his soldiers and some of the enemy exchanging cigarettes and sitting around telling stories and joking together. Thinking the matter over, he came to the conclusion that these private soldiers had no desire to kill each other, on the contrary, seemed to be the best of friends. All this set him to philosophiz ing as to the real cause of wars and whether or not it would be possible to prevent them. Finally he con cluded that the best remedy would be to have the kings, or whoever happened to be at the head of the govern ment, the prime ministers and all the leading politicians on both sides man the front line trenches, and when everything was properly arranged give the order to fire ! If this were done it was his opinion that there would be very. few wars in the future. Anyway it would be interesting to see it tried for a few hundred years. One of the most delightful memories of our Mediter- [52] On the Mediterranean ranean trip was the long walks and talks with Father B on the promenade deck in the moonlight. Being a genial, middle-aged man, and an extensive traveler, his conversation was both entertaining and instructive. Above all his kindness won a way into my heart, and anyone in my condition at that time would always keenly remember it. The condition referred to was the result of a little episode that happened in Venice about two weeks pre viously, when the lady of our party privately remon strated that my old pipe was getting too highly flavored. I promised that, if it was offensive to her, I would dis pense with it. A few minutes later, as our gondola was drifting along in front of the Doge's Palace, she asked me to hand her my pipe, which I saw quickly disappear overboard. Once on board the boat, the old longing returned, and I secretly pined for my old companion and solace, which was resting, peacefully, I hope, and doing its bit to add to the fragrance of the Grand Canal. When Father B inquired if I smoked, I told him the sad story, and he nobly came to my rescue. Having laid in a good supply of cigars before embarking, and having often, in his travels, been in a tobaccoless condi tion himself, he insisted that I share with him, and therefore sociability greatly our increased. Theonly excitement we had on the voyage was fur nished by a lady passenger who claimed she had been robbed of a necklace, variously valued at from ten to fifty thousand pounds, and accused the femme de chambre of purloining the same. This caused a thorough [53] A Modern Pilgrimage search both of the boat and the suspected young lady, as well as a four hours' delay and police investigation at Alexandria, before anyone was allowed to disembark. During this delay we had our first view of the Orient, and ample opportunity to inspect the motley array on the pier. It was easy to realize that we had touched a new and different section of the world. Bright red tarbushes and long white cotton robes were to be seen bobbing around among the sombre, conventional cos tumes of the Europeans. Brown-faced and bare-legged specimens of the poorer classes lounged about the pier. Spirited horses dashed by, attached to arabiyehs, a sort of surrey with a calash top, driven by a swarthy Arbagi, whose feet generally protrude conspicuously over the dashboard, asthe space between the driver's seat and the dash is packed full with fresh alfalfa a day's supply for the two steeds. Water carriers in bright costumes with large earthen vessels suspended from their shoul ders wandered about clashing their brass cymbals. Negroes, Sudanese, all the races of the world seemed to be represented, and all reflected the true Oriental spirit in a total absence of hurry! Large, high-powered auto mobiles dashed into the crowd, which in some mysterious way managed to let them through without anyone being run down. Here and there, perched on the edge of the pier, were poorly clad natives contentedly fishing, but evidently not expecting to catch anything. Finally the gang-plank was run out, and the passengers filed out, escorting their baggage to the customs house where, owing to the stolen necklace incident, every [54] On the Mediterranean solitary article was taken out and carefully examined. After levying a duty on each separate and collective article of luggage, our persons were carefully searched for the missing necklace. Then came the long, rambling drive to the hotel, and our first experience with Oriental street brawls, which are amusing enough in the daytime, but seriously inter fered with our sleep at night. It was easy to see that some thing was brewing in the political pot over in that part of the world, and that Italy was not the only country possessed of smouldering volcanoes. It was difficult for us to realize that we were in the city founded by Alexander the Great about 400 B.C., and at one time containing more than half a million inhabitants, as very little remains now to remind one of the glorious period when Antony and Cleopatra held revel here, and the city boasted of a library containing nine hundred thousand scrolls. Pompey's pillar, a real granite column nearly nine feet in diameter and over sixty feet high, stands on the ruins of the old Serapeum in the midst of a public park, but nothing was in evidence to suggest the wonderful city that existed during the time of Hypatia, or a few centuries earlier when Alexandria was the center of the commerce of the world. [55] VII In the Land of the Pharaohs The distance from Alexandria to Cairo is one hun dred and thirty miles, the trip requires four hours and the fare is one hundred and seventy-five piastres, first class (equaling seven dollars in United States currency, and three dollars and fifty cents second class). These good idea of railroad conditions in Egypt, figures give a as far as price and speed are concerned. The quality of the service was surprising as it was the best we had enjoyed since leaving England. In fact, you could almost believe that you were on the Southeastern & Chatham Railroad, the equipment being practically the same, and everything clean, comfortable and sanitary thanks to British management! They even run dining or restau rant cars, as they are called. Nearly the whole journey from Alexandria to Cairo is through the fertile delta of the ancient Nile, although at present there remains only two of the seven mouths that once emptied into the sea, the others having been silted up long ago, and are now replaced by a vast network of irrigating canals. As far as the eye can see, in every direction, stretches a level, fertile plain, on which a great army of workmen labor in primitive fashion and with the crudest of a tools. Adonkey and bullock hitched to a curved stick is their idea of a first-class farm implement, and stranger [56] In the Land of the Pharaohs still, their purpose, as there are thousands of answers acresunder cultivation. The farmhouses match their wooden ploughs, consisting of mud huts grouped in little villages, like the pueblos in New Mexico and Arizona. The only visible adornment is the village cemetery, which sometimes happens to contain one or more shade trees, the only ones in sight. Anyone admir ing the "simple life" could find it here in its most un adorned simplicity, moving along in the grooves that were fashioned fifty centuries ago. As we journeyed along we noticed that a great many people seemed to be either out for a ride or going some where, and we began to wonder if we would find any body there when we reached Cairo, as everyone was journeying towards Alexandria. It was amusing to see them jogging along on "broiler-size" donkeys; the rider usually in a long white robe, sitting far back on the donkey's rump, swinging his feet in and out in true Oriental style. Now and then a train of donkeys would come ambling along loaded down with such a variety of commodities that we concluded it must be some port able Oriental emporium looking for a new location, or keeping on the move to avoid paying rent. Entering Cairo, our train stopped in a large and up-to- date station, alive with noisy Arab porters and guides, all rather confusing to a stranger. But we had arranged with the American Express Company to meet us, as we feared our knowledge of Arabic, which at that time amounted to a mere "chemical trace," might not be suf ficient to meet the requirements. So we managed to get [57] A Modern Pilgrimage safely to our hotel, located on the Opera House Square, a large and sumptuous hostelry with a large terrace filled with tables and potted palms, overlooking the Esbekiyeh Gardens. (I use the word hostelry advisedly; as "the Egyptians call their houses 'hostelries' on ac count of the short time they inhabit them ; but the tombs This hotel was they call eternal dwelling-places.") with an elevator, which actually ran most of equipped the time, provided you had leisure enough to wait for it; but as we were only stopping there a few days, we generally climbed five flights of stairs and often won dered why they had to make the ceilings so high! Cairo has been called "the diamond stud on the handle of the fan of the Delta," and we found it all of that. In fact, next to Paris, it was the most interesting and fascinating city we encountered and one of which volumes could be written. Naturally our first expedition was to the pyramids of Ghizeh, which can be reached by auto in a little over half an hour, or by tram car in about forty minutes. When about one hundred and fifty yards from the pyramids, the good road suddenly stopped and so did our little party (owing to a punctured tire), and rather than plough through the sand we negotiated for four camels, which, after the customary amount of protest, finally knelt down for us to climb on. So much was easy; but it required some dexterity and vigilance to stay on while these long-legged animals up-ended them selves, and got under way. These unclean and pathetic animals slouched along like a negro with sore feet, and [58] In the Land of the Pharaohs in about twenty minutes more we were brushing by Cheop's pyramid, on which, it is said, one hundred thou sand men labored three months each year for twenty years the period when the Nile is on its yearly rampage. Like everyone else who sees this monument for the first time we marveled at the immense blocks of stone of which it is composed. Anyone of an inquiring mind is permitted to explore the interior of this pyramid by going around to the north side and climbing up thirteen tiers of stone, each one about three feet high, then getting down on all fours and crawling through a dark and slippery passage about three and a half feet high by four feet wide, breath ing meanwhile an atmosphere that smells strongly of bats. After crawling along for a distance that seems fully as long as a city block, the inquiring and persistent person comes finally to the Great Hall and the King's Chamber, which at present contains nothing but an empty and mutilated sarcophagus and an Arab fortune-teller, who, with his index-finger marks out a wheel in the sand and for five piastres a throw will tell you what the future has in store for you. After the veil of the future has been momentarily lifted, all that remains to do is crawl out again, and brush off the cobwebs. As none of our party seemed anxious to go indoors, we continued on our way about two hundred yards beyond the big pyra mid and dismounted in front of the Sphinx. This famous monument was hewn out of the natural rock at least five thousand years ago. As the original rock was slightly deficient in places, additional blocks of stone [59] A Modern Pilgrimage were added to form the shape of a recumbent lion with the head of a man, supposed to be the likeness of King Khepren, by whose orders the work was done. At one time it was supposed to represent a sun-god, and that it was sculptured to guard the entrance to the Nile Valley; if so, its name was Hu. While on the subject of pyra mids, we learned that the Arabic name for a pyramid is haram, while the Mohammedan's name for his wives, up to four, is spelled harim. Whether there is any etymo logical significance in the similarity of these two words we were unable to have thoroughly and satisfactorily explained. From the pyramids we crossed to the opposite side of the city, where the Tombs of the Caliphs are located, just north of the Mokattam Hills, whose quarries fur nished much of the rock used in the construction of the pyramids. Here we found some wonderful specimens of Arabic art and architecture, but nothing to compare with the superb mosque of Sultan Hasan, which is con sidered the finest existing monument of Egypto-Arabian architecture, or the recently completed Rafaiyeh mosque, which, in the judgment of our humble party, was the one perfect specimen of Oriental architecture among the thousands which adorn the sky-line of Cairo. This latter mosque contains the family burial vault of the Khedive Ismail, who did many great things for Cairo (and, incidentally, for himself), his ambition being to make that city the rival of Paris. He was getting along beau tifully and had succeeded in appropriating to his own use one-fifth of all the arable land in Egypt and had [60] In the Land of the Pharaohs increased the public debt to about three hundred and seventy millions of dollars when he was finally deposed. The city of Cairo is fertile in mosques and we plucked up courage enough to climb to the top of one of the tallest minarets and take a bird's-eye view of the city and its environs, and our sympathy goes out to the poor old nmezzin who has to make that climb five times each day. On our secondday in Cairo we visited the famous Egyptian Museum, one of the most wonderful of its kind in the world, and while it is highly interesting, it can hardly be called a place for pleasurable sight-seeing. In one gallery you are introduced to the Royal Mummies, and find yourself standing at the side of Merenptah, the Pharaoh of the Exodus (who, by the way, has not been "unrolled" yet). In a case near by is his father, Rameses II, the Pharaoh of Oppression mentioned in the first chapter of Exodus, whose features are not exactly pleas ing to look at. But after you have strolled along farther and find one whose honeycombed skull shows that the royal owner was carried off with smallpox, you decide that Rameses was not so bad looking after all. From the royal specimens you pass on to a varied assortment of mummified monkeys, dogs, cats, gazelles and croco diles, as well as bunches of flowers and fruits that were gathered fresh something like forty or fifty centuries ago. But mummy-gazing is not exactly an enlivening pastime, and a couple of hours of it is generally suffi cient for the average individual, when he is perfectly willing to move along and examine the jewelry that the [61] A Modern Pilgrimage queens and royal princesses wore when they motored over to see how the pyramids were progressing, or strolled out on the ancient Rialto. Especially fine and elaborate are the ornaments and jewels of Queen Ahhotep, the mother of King Amosis, who ruled 1580-1557 B.C. Rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings, etc., were considered the proper thing even in those days, and while vanity cases were not yet in vogue, the lady's mirror is on exhibition. One of the charms of Cairo (on a cool day) is a visit to the Mouski along which the best of the native bazaars are located; but it is well to beware of the Tunis and some of the other congested bazaars in the heat of the day, as the odor increases with the heat, and you could hardly find a more ideal breeding place for cholera or any other form of pestilence. Some of these old places have evidently never been properly cleaned since Moses was found in the bulrushes, and a modern vacuum cleaner would probably have nervous prostration if called upon to function in that part of the city. You can never be lonesome in Cairo. As you soon as step out the street you are assailed by guides and on street vendors of all kinds, who want to sell you any thing from a New York Herald to a genuine scarab made in Germany; but we soon learned the proper anti dote for beggars and street merchants, who follow you around for blocks, refusing to take "no" for an answer, thinking you will buy presently if they keep on lowering the price. We learned that by firmly saying, "Ma feesh filoos (There is no money) !" they would all scatter [62] In the Land of the Pharaohs like chaff in a high These dealers in spurious wind. antiques have a serious way of trying to convince you of the genuineness of their wares by pulling down their lower eyelids and repeating their favorite oath, "By my eye!" In that country, where there are so few good eyes, we decided that they were putting it as strong as all they knew how. Ophthalmia is a serious problem through the Orient, and the stranger must be continually on his guard if he wants to leave the country with two perfectly good eyes. It is pitiful to see even babies with diseased eyes, and the mother with perhaps only one out of order. eye in operative condition, and that slightly Somebody has facetiously remarked that this country must be where the Russellite cult originated, as millions of these people will certainly never see death or any thing else! There is something else the newcomer has to contin ually be on his guard against, and that is not to confuse the sexof the waiters in the restaurants, who all wear long white robes with bright red sashes or tarbushes. And when you get to coffee, you are sure to get cafe fori in Arabian style, and find yourself drinking black mud instead of coffee such as you are accustomed to drink. If you decide to take a ride on the street car, you find they are divided into first, second and third classes, with an enclosed compartment marked Dames, which, if you happen to enter and a veiled lady also happens to board the car, you are supposed to vacate imme diately, as the same roof must not cover persons of opposite sex. For this reason the soldiers nicknamed [63] A Modern Pilgrimage these black-robed, black-veiled ladies "submarines," and steered clear of their special compartments. Fortunately you are not compelled to patronize street cars, as the city is alive with Arab cabs, and you no sooner step out of the hotel than one appears as if by magic, and a swarthy Arab throws back the calash top and waits for you to climb in. Moving day, which seems to be any day at any time, is one of Cairo's chief sights. If the moving is on a small scale an Arab will be seen walking down the street with a dresser on his head, followed by another Arab with the marble top balanced on his head; while a third will have a few chairs hung around on his person. If the movee happens to be a person of some importance and social standing, one who has accumulated consider able of the world's goods, he secures an ordinary jolt- like a hay-rack, on which wagon, with a large, flat bed he loads his several wives and other female dependents, three or four along each side with feet hanging down the his household effects in the over edge, piles up middle between them, ties the family cow to the rear of the wagon, where it is attended by the juvenile mem bers of the family, while he, the lord and master of the household, seats himself up on the high seat alongside the driver. Funerals also are barometers of social standing in consist of Egypt. The usual ones seen on the street the deceased carried in a regulation box on the shoul ders of a group of pallbearers, followed by the lamenting harem and a few friends, the whole procession on foot. [64] In the Land of the Pharaohs In a short time the box is brought back empty and ready for the next call. But in spite of all the strange customs and odd sights there is a fascination about the city of Cairo which is irresistible but hard to explain. At first you feel dis gusted with the filth and odors, you dislike being an noyed by insistent guides, street peddlers and beggars. The ragged, sore-eyed, emaciated and generally run down condition of the natives makes you feel that it is about time to wipe off the slate and start a new score. But eventually the lure of Egypt creeps through your system, and your whole mental attitude changes. You begin to feel a little sympathy with the old-timers who tell you that they "simply love the filth and odors of the Orient," and you gradually grow to enjoy the peculiar flavor of Oriental life and your stay becomes one of constant interest and pleasure. [65] VIII From Egypt to Palestine Just before leaving Cairo a little incident occurred that enlivened our departure. A few hours before train time Mr. B decided to pay a final visit, and in order to save run no risk of getting lost, called a time and cab and gave the cabman the directions, which he pro fessed to understand. Time passed; it was getting dan gerously near train time, when suddenly a cab pulled up in front of the hotel, Mr. B dashed out excitedly, and after a few hot words, handed the cabman a small- sized bank note, which he looked at and contemptuously threw onground. The hotel cab-starter picked up the the money and handed it to him again, when the Arab launched forth in a loud harangue, stretching his hands up toward the sky, beating his breast, and again throw ing the money on the ground, whereat a nearby Sou danese slipped quietly down from his cab, pocketed the spurned money and climbed back on his seat with a satisfied and expansive grin. In the meantime a crowd had collected and with it a policeman, all of which made the noisy cabman more noisy and vehement than ever (as their theory seems to be that the loudest man wins), until finally the policeman led him over and parked him on opposite side of the street with instructions to the cool off and quiet down. While all this was going on, I had managed to glean from Mr. B that the Arab I 66 2 From Egypt to Palestine had driven him over half of Cairo, everywhere except to the right number, which he never did reach, although it was not over ten minutes' walk distant from the hotel, and on one of the principal streets, and that the cause of all the row was his refusal to pay a full fare for the afternoon's ride around the city. Before leaving the subject of Cairo we should be remiss if we failed to mention the Bahais who did so much to make our stay a pleasant one, and of whom I expect to have more to say at another time. Leaving Cairo at six-fifteen p. m. we proceeded by rail to Kantara, on the Suez Canal, on the opposite side of which the military railroad, built by Lord Allenby during the late war, has its southern terminus. After a round with the customs officials and a tire some siege with the passport officers, we secured porters and started in search of the train for Haifa. This seemed to be a sort of mirage, but we trudged on in the darkness, crossed the bridge over the Suez Canal, were halted now and then by sentries, who scanned our pass ports, and after a hike of over half a mile, finally over took a train of sleeping cars on a sandy siding, into which we climbed, completely exhausted, about midnight. The train was much better than we had expected, and the management seemed especially solicitous for the personal appearance of the traveling public, as it had neat little framed notices inthe cars stating that "the conductor will brush and polish the shoes of the pas sengers if so requested." The white-jacketed porters, so familiar in American Pullmans, are here conspicuous [67] A Modern Pilgrimage by their absence, and although there are plenty of Ethiopians in this part of the world, they have not yet invaded the sleeping car payroll. The solitary conduc tor does not bother much about your tickets or any thing else, and appears in the morning only long enough to make up your berth and collect the linen. When traveling in a party, these European compart ment cars are ideal, as you have absolute privacy, and no one disturbs you, even to announce the stations; it seems to be up to the passenger to keep track of the train's whereabouts, to see that he gets off at his proper station, and to do his own yelling for a porter to carry his luggage. But if your party is not large enough to fill the compartment, the case is entirely different, as you are likely to have your peace of mind and body disturbed by the pervasive and unsavory presence of the less desirable type of native, with his own ideas of ventilation. In Palestine these International Wagon-Lits, or sleep ing cars, are operated by a company whose full name is the Compagnie Internationale des Wagon-Lits et des Grands Express Europeens, and are fairly good-sized cars. They have to be, in order to get the name of the company on one side of the car without too much abbreviation, or the necessity arises for wrapping the rest of it around the other side of the voiture. They on have only one row of berths opening onto a side corridor running the full length of the car. In the daytime these coaches resemble the ordinary Continental cars, except that each pair of compartments has a little semi-circular [68] From Egypt to Palestine built-in washroom, done in beveled glass and Lincrusta- Walton, a very convenient feature. The weakest thing about it is the water supply, as after two persons with tiny hands and a very small face have washed, the rest of the party must be content with using the damp end of the towel, unless they get out a search warrant for the conductor, who will obligingly furnish a small pitcher- ful of water. It is very necessary for the traveler in these parts to remember that he is supposed to supply himself with soap and towels, as in so doing he will automatically avoid a great deal of inconvenience. The reason given in Italy for the failure to provide these articles is that anything so easily removed never remains long in place. Such a condition is surprising in Rome, which once boasted the finest and largest baths in the world; but where the natives must have gotten washed up for all time, as the present indications show that bathing is not in vogue, soap and towels are kept under lock and key. But here in the Orient, where ablutions are a religious obligation and are required of the faith ful five times a day (before prayers), we naturally ex pected- better facilities. Indeed, we failed to see how this duty could be discharged unless, by special dispen sation, the inhabitants were allowed to avail them selves of the religious regulations of the desert, where "the faithful are permitted to use sand for their religious ablutions" a of dry wash! sort Getting back to the car again: each compartment has two very comfortable berths, an upper and lower; but the regulations state that "each sleeping car cabin is [69] A Modem Pilgrimage available for three first-class passengers after eight a. m." what becomes of the third passenger during the night time, and whether he gets any sleep depends, I presume, on whether he is a stronger or a better man than either of the other two. Fortunately the most unattractive part of the journey, that through the desert of El Tih, was accomplished during the night, and the next morning found us in the narrow, but fertile valley that skirts the eastern shore of the Mediterranean Sea, which at one time was the most frequented and fought-over section of the world, but is now a scene of ruin and desolation. Except at rare intervals there is nothing for miles and miles to indicate that this part of the world is even inhabited, and you begin to wonder if you have by mistake been switched off into some new and undiscovered country. Being assured that we were really in Palestine, we began to look about for some signs of Zionists, who, we had been led by our home press to believe, were in force. We continued to look invading these parts the Suez Canal to long and earnestly all the way from the northern end of the Sea of Galilee for a glimpse of these colonists about to reclaim their native land, and make the desert and rocks of Palestine blossom like the rose. A week or so later, from Haifa to Tiberias, we did discover two or three instances of unusual activity. The English are busy installing a system of than good roads in Palestine, so that something more about from donkey or a caravan of camels can move a some degree of speed, com- one place to another with [70] From Egypt to Palestine fort and safety. These roads are being built according to the specifications of John Macadam, and the rocks are broken up by husky young Jewesses, while the grad ing is done by their husbands, brothers and sweethearts, under the direction of English engineers. They seemed to be a happy and industrious lot, but rumor says that as soon as they draw down sufficient cash, they hasten to buy a return ticket for their former homes. The only evidence of permanent colonization we saw was the little German settlements dotted here and there, which formed a pleasing contrast with the surrounding desolation and showed that industry and perseverance will work wonders even in this forsaken corner of the globe. Our curiosity was aroused by a large pipe-line which we saw cropping out occasionally along the railroad south of Ludd, and learned that this was installed dur ing the English military operations along with the rail road, and that water was now piped through it to Jerusalem, thus fulfilling the ancient prophecy that one day the sweet waters of the Nile would be conveyed to the Holy City. After passing through the Plain of Philistia, the train halts at the railroad station of Ludd, about a mile dis tant from which lies the ancient city of Lydda, which should be especially interesting to all Englishmen, as it was the native place of St. George, the patron saint of England. His tomb is still shown in the old church, a sort of two-family house, as one end of the building belongs to the Greeks, while the other is walled off and used as a Mohammedan Mosque. [71] A Modem Pilgrimage Ludd is prominent junction point, if nothing more. a To the right lies Jerusalem, forty-two miles away, and to the left you can see the orange groves of Jaffa, twelve miles distant. These groves have unique burglar- proof, rust-proof fences composed of a dense growth of prickly pears. Jaffa is the ancient Joppa, the place where Jonah is said to have set sail on his tempestuous voyage, and a few centuries before that was called Iopa, where, in mythological times, Andromeda was chained to the rocks to be devoured by the cruel monster, when Perseus happened along, killed the monster and proposed to the young lady. The surroundings were probably more romantic than they are now. After leaving Ludd we enter the Plain of Sharon. Here and there we saw a solitary palm or fig-tree, or a pomegranate and a few clusters of low, black tents, indicating that some Arab was making a temporary home for himself with a few cattle grazing around him. When you see this you have seen about all that remains of the wonderful Plain of Sharon, of which Solomon sings so enthusiastically. And you find that the Rose of Sharon wasn't a rose after all, but a narcissus, and into silence until the train ap you relax and relapse Caesarea, which we dimly remembered as the proaches chief town of Judea in Roman times, having been built and named for by Herod the Great in sumptuous style, of its former Augustus Caesar. It has lost every trace has been used only as a grandeur, and for many years used in buildings elsewhere. It is quarry for rock to be [72] From Egypt to Palestine inhabited only by a few Bosnian exiles, who manage somehow to live a quiet and secluded life among the ruins. About twenty miles farther across the Plain of Sharon, we passed around the head of the Mt. Carmel of Biblical times and just under the caves of Elijah, and entered the Bay of Acre, at the southern end of which lies the beautiful little city of Haifa and at the northern ex tremity the historic City of Akka. In size and shape it resembles our Santa Monica Bay, but here the resemblance ceases, as the country between these two cities is silent and deserted and there is noth ing to indicate that about eight hundred years ago this spot was the battle ground of the Crusaders, and that at one sixty thousand Christians were slain here time or sold into slavery. In more recent times, Napoleon encamped on what is still known as Napoleon's Hill, and unsuccessfully beseiged the City of Akka. At last, after a jaunt of over ten thousand miles, not including the distance we had tramped through art gal leries, museums and mosques, or journeyed by autos, cabs or other minor means of conveyance, which would be incredible if totaled, we reached what I supposed was the end of our journey; for Haifa is the home of Sir Abdul Baha, the head of the Bahai movement, whose influence is now being felt in every civilized country. [73] IX The New Bahai Temple One of the prime responsibilities of each member of our party during our journey eastward was to look to the safety of a certain roll, about six inches in diameter and four feet long, containing the plans and prospectus of the new Bahai Temple at Chicago, which was on its way to Abdul Baha, the master and head of the Bahai Movement. Particular and exacting as that charge was at the time, it seems easy compared with the present task of attempting to describe what was contained in the precious roll. It is hardly necessary to emphasize the fact that these plans were exquisite examples of architectural drawings, and the large water-color perspective a work of art; yet it was not until I returned to Chicago and saw the huge model of the building that I began to realize the wonderful beauty of this new creation, and even then it was necessary to become somewhat familiar with its symbolism to grasp its full significance. This is masterpiece in that it represents in unique Revelationa con plastic form the teaching of the new crete expression of a spiritual conception. It is safe to say that never before in the history of architecture has such a thing been attempted and executed with such complete and marked success. [74] The New Bahai Temple As is well known, all great religions have brought into existence a new type of architecture; so that archi tecture may be truthfully said to have been born in the temple. Each religion has also adopted or originated a certain figureor symbol; such as the swastika, the earliest religious symbol, used in prehistoric times from China to Western Africa; the gammadion, or voided Greek cross; the seal of Solomon, consisting of two triangles superposed and forming a six-rayed figure (also used by the Vedantists and Theosophists) ; the Moham medan symbol of the crescent and five-pointed star, and finally, surpassing them all, the nine-pointed star, which is the symbol of the Bahais. All of these emblems have been wrought into the decoration of this Temple, presenting a history of re ligious symbolism from the earliest times. Interwoven with them is a system of geometrical lines and figures, original with Mr. Bourgeois, by means of which he obtains endless line, and as you look at his decora an tion you are reminded of the wave of sound evoked by the master from the violin "an uninterrupted wave of crystallized sound!" While one could truthfully say that this specimen of architecture is "frozen music," yet, on the other hand, it has extraordinary life and movement. It produces a variety of emotion in different onlookers, and while all agree that it is a marvelous creation, some go into raptures over it; while others are moved to tears. One of the greatest architects in New York has stated that "it is the first new idea in architecture since the thir teenth century." [75] A Modern Pilgrimage ThisTemple is to be called the Mashreq' ul-Azkar (also spelled Mashrak El Azkar), an Arabic term which means "the dawning place of the mentionings of God." A place of prayer and praise and one from which is to go forth actual and unselfish service to humanity. In plan it resembles a nine-pointed star, the number nine being used by the Bahais as the symbol of this Revelation, as it contains all the others and is the sign of completion. The nine faces of the Temple are made on an inverted curve, which has the effect of two open arms inviting all who approach to enter. The nine entrance doors are at the center of each of these curves and symbolize the heart. The crowning glory of the Temple is the massive and ' inspiring dome, on which is carved all the religious sym bols; beginning at the base with the swastika, the Buddhists' symbol, the seal of Solomon, the Cross, the crescent and star, and finishing at the top with the nine- pointed star, the symbol of the Bahais, all wonderfully interwoven with geometrical tracery that gives it an indescribable richness and charm. All of this decoration on the dome is not only carved, but is pierced or cut through, and will present, espe lace work cially when illuminated, a piece of architectural This that will surpass anything of its kind in existence. type of perforation was originated by Mr. Bourgeois and featured by him in California over twenty years ago. and The shape of the building reminds one of a bell, to dis- it has been called "the new Liberty Bell, calling [76] The New Bahai Temple tressed and separated humanity." Others liken it to a beehive betokening activity in perfect order. In the elevation of the Temple we are confronted with more symbolism, as it is built up in three stages, form ing a trinity such as is found everywhere, in man and all the works of nature. The architectural forms of the past have been worked into its design, the first story being reminiscent of the old Egyptian temples, with nine towers ornamented with exquisite tracery and perforated to form spiritual light houses. The doors and windows are Romanesque in form with a touch of Gothic and Arabic tracery. The second story is Gothic in form, interlaced with Roman esque and early Byzantine motifs. The third story is Renaissance in treatment and leads up beautifully to the dome, the great and crowning feature of the building, ninety-five feet in diameter and one hundred and sixty- two feet high. Within this outer dome will be an inner dome of opalescent glass to take care of the rain or snow, a space of three feet to be left between them for electric light display at night and for a system of forced steam heating for melting snow and ice. The of the first story, as well as the nine towers minarets of the second story, will also be perforated and illuminated at night. But the most spectacular electrical effect will be found at the apex of the dome, where the nine ribs come to a common point, repre senting hands joined together in prayer. These hands leave an open space between the fingers and thumbs from which powerful searchlights will throw nine beams [77] A Modem Pilgrimage of light into the sky, forming a nine-pointed star in space, visible for many miles. From a psychologist's standpoint this Temple presents an interesting study, as Mr. Bourgeois declares he is "only the channel through which it came," and proceeded with the work only as it was given to him. The first thing he did was the doors and windows of the first story, a wonderful piece of architectural design, symbolizing the descent of the Holy Spirit. After fin ishing this he got the entire form of the lower story and sketched it out in an hour's time, but he realized when the sketch was finished that the idea could not be properly expressed in a drawing on a flat surface. So he proceeded to make a plaster model. Then the second story dawned on him and he modeled that, but being deeply perplexed all the time as to whether it would be possible to design a suitable dome, one rich enough to the vision that had already been given him. complete Then the quiet and restful third story appeared, which added still more to his perplexity and brought several to produce a days of grave doubts as to his ability feature worthy to complete the structure. One morning and saw he was awakened suddenly at three o'clock sketch out. before him the dome, which he hastened to is given Thus all the credit for this wonderful creation by the architect to a higher Power, which simply used him as an instrument, and much in the same way as he used hispencil and modeling tools. One morning in the spring of 1901 (twenty years ago) were taking a stroll on Mr. Bourgeois and the writer [78] The New Bahai Temple the Mission Hills at Santa Barbara, California, when he related at some length that his mission in life was to build a large temple to be dedicated to Truth, which was to surrounded by other buildings devoted to be Art and Science and the welfare of humanity. Just where these buildings would be located he was not sure, buthoped it might be somewhere in sunny California. A few months later I happened to call at the De Longpre residence at Hollywood and was shown by M. De Longpre two newspaper clippings reporting that our mutual friend had been taken to a sanitarium near Pitts burgh with pneumonia and three days later had passed on. Having read all this in the Associated Press dispatches, I naturally believed it was true and was hardly prepared for the shock I received about eight months ago, when I saw in the Architectural Record an article on a new Bahai Temple at Chicago designed by Louis Bourgeois. So I lost no time in writing him to inquire if he had been here all this time, and requesting some sort of an explanation. Hisreply was to the effect that he was still here, and planning a trip to Europe and Palestine, in which it was my good fortune to join and incidentally add to my experiences the richest chapter of my life. But the strangest thing of all is that his dream, re lated to me twenty years ago, is being realized in the Bahai group now being erected at Wilmette, near Chicago. From a human standpoint, the designing of this [79] A Modem Pilgrimage temple presents another interesting phase, as when the problem of designing the building presented itself, Mrs. Bourgeois volunteered to co-operate by buying a little notion store at West Englewood, New Jersey, where they were living, and while the artist-architect was working on the model she was occupied with selling ice cream and candy. Instead of being able to finish the model in a few months, as he at first thought, it re quired three years, but finally in an atmosphere of love and cheerful co-operation the great work reached a suc cessful termination. The model was designed for a building four hundred and fifty feet in diameter and three hundred and sixty feet high and would cost approximately twenty-five mil lion dollars. The one now under construction in Chi cago is on smaller scale and will be one hundred and a and sixty-two sixty-two feet in diameter, one hundred feet high and will cost about three million dollars. It Michi will be situated on the only bluff in sight on Lake nine which is circular on three gan, in a plot of acres, wall five hundred feet sides. This will be inclosed by a in beautiful gardens in diameter and will be laid out having nine avenues and nine large basins of water with illuminated fountains. The water from these basins will be gathered into the center basin, facing Acca, Palestine, lake forty feet below. and will then be cascaded into the at night. This cascade will also be illuminated The municipality of Wilmette has purchased the land the site of the Temple for park purposes, so adjoining [80] The New Bahai Temple that it will have a park on one side and the circular part will face on the great Lake. Around the Temple it is proposed to erect accessory buildings devoted to the study and propagation of the arts and sciences, and, as Abdul Baha says, "when these institutions, college, hospital, hospice and establishments for the incurables, university for the study of higher sciences and advanced educational courses and various philanthropic buildings, are built, its doors will be open to all nations and all religions. There will be drawn absolutely no line of demarcation. Its charities will be dispensed irrespective of color and race. Its gates will be flung wide to mankind, prejudice toward none, love for all. The central building will be devoted to the pur poses of prayer and worship. Thus for the first time religion will become harmonized with science and science will be the handmaid of religion, both showering their material and spiritual gifts on all humanity." To one who is not familiar with the Bahai movement, the question naturally arises as to what it means and what is behind it all. As I had the great honor and pleasure of meeting Abdul Baha, and having several interviews with him, I have taken the opportunity of investigating the Bahai teachings. [81] X What the Bahai Movement Is In the teachings of the Bahais we find nothing radical or revolutionary. They do not seek to introduce new forms or ceremonies and have nothing mysterious, occult or abstruse about them. One looks in vain to find any thing that must be accepted "on faith," such as is defined by the little Sunday School girl as the "act of trying to make yourself believe what you know is not true!" It is not an organization and has no paid clergy. It is not an attempt to supplant or supersede any of the old established religions, but is rather an inclusive move ment that numbers among its adherents members of is represented by every known religion and creed, and from civilized country on the globe. people every Christians, Buddhists, Mohammedans, Theo- Jews, sophists, Freemasons, Spiritualists, all find their highest aims in this cause, as it contains the essence of the highest ideals of the present century. It constructive rather than iconoclastic and its is laid down by teachings are based on twelve principles, his Baha Ullah about sixty years ago, and expounded by in the Orient as "the Master" son, Abdul Baha, known of them: and the "Center of the Covenant." He says "All the teachings which have been given during past Revelation of Baha Ullah, days are to be found in the has certain new but in addition to these this Revelation [82] - What the Bahai Movement Is teachings which are not to be found in any of the religious books of the past." THE TWELVE BAHAI PRINCIPLES 1 The Oneness of Mankind. "Baha Ullah addresses himself to mankind, saying: 'Ye are the leaves of one tree and thedrops of one That is, the world ocean.' of human existence is no other than one tree, and the nations or people are like unto different branches thereof. Thus Baha Ullahpresented the fact of the oneness of the world of humanity, while in the reli gious books of the past humanity has been divided into two parts, one part looked upon as belonging to the faithful, the other as belonging to the irreligious or infidel; the first assigned to the Mercy of their Creator, the second considered objects of the Creator's wrath. But Baha Ullah proclaimed the oneness of the world of humanity he submerged all mankind in the sea of Divine Generosity." 2 Independent Investigation of Truth. "Men are com manded not to follow blindly the ways of their ancestors. Nay, each must see with his own eyes, hear with his own ears, investigating the Truth for himself that he may attain the Truth by himself." 3 The Foundation of All Religions Is One. "The foun dations of all the Religions of God are one and the same foundation, and that Oneness is the Truth, and the Truth is One, and cannot be made subject to division and plurality." [83] A Modern Pilgrimage 4 Religion Must Be the Cause of Unity."Religion must be the cause of unity, harmony and accord amongst men. If Religion be the cause of inharmony, or leads men to separate themselves each from the other, creating conflict between them then Baha Ullah de clares that irreligion is better than Religion." 5 Religion Must Be in Accord With Science and Reason. "If a religion is not in conformity with science and reason, then it is superstition. Down to the present day it has been customary to accept a thing because it was called religion, even though it were not in accord with human reason." "The world of 6 Equality Between Men and Women. one is woman and the other humanity has two wings man. Not until both wings are equally developed can becomes the bird fly. Not until the world of women of virtues equal to the world of men in the acquisition be attained and perfections can success and prosperity as they ought to be." Be Forgotten. "Preju 7 Prejudice of All Kinds Must dice and fanaticism be it religious, sectarian, denomi the foundation national or patrioticis destructive to men should release of human solidarity; wherefore, in order that the one themselves from such bonds become manifest. nessof the world of humanity may nations should make 8 Universal Peace. "All men and Universal Peace amongst Peace, that there shall be a [84] What the Bahai Movement Is governments, Universal Peace amongst Religions, Universal Peace amongst races." 9 Universal Education. "All mankind men and women everywhere should acquire secular and spiritual knowledge. The education of each child is obligatory. If there are no parents, the community must look after the child." 10 Solution of the Economic Problems. "Just as the rich man enjoys his rest and his pleasures surrounded by luxuries, the poor man must likewise have a home, be provided with sustenance, and not be in want. Until this is effected happiness is impossible." 11 An International Auxiliary Language. "An inter national auxiliary language shall be adopted which shall be taught by all the schools and academies of the world. A committee appointed by national bodies shall select a suitable language to be used as a means of international communication and taught in all the schools, in order that everyone shall need but two languages, his national tongue and the international auxiliary language." 12 An International Tribunal. "A universal tribunal under the power of God, under the protection of all men, shall be established. Each one must obey the decisions of this tribunal, in order to arrange the diffi culties of every nation." The above meagre outline presents the Principles pro claimed by Baha Ullah, something like fifty years ago, [85] A Modern Pilgrimage before Esperanto, the League of Nations, Woman's Suf frage or the Inter-Allied Church Movement had entered on the stage of human affairs, much less been permitted to take their places anywhere near the forefront. That they present a practical and much-needed plat form, no fair-minded person can reasonably deny, and that they provide a satisfactory working basis is proved by the fact that in the Orient the many adorers of the Sacred Cow and their mortal enemies who abominate the unclean Pig have forgotten their animosities and, under the Bahai standard, are living and working together in perfect peace and harmony. It has erected a new Mashreq, or meeting place, into which all aside parties and sects can enter and comfortably lay their prejudices. In our various interviews with Abdul Baha he laid the especial emphasis on the necessity of actually "living instead of about it or holding beautiful but life," talking barren beliefs. He has laid down the following rules for the guidance of those who wish to become Bahais: To be no cause of grief to anyone. them with To be kind to all people and to love a pure spirit. to to bear Should opposition or injury happen us, kind ever we can be, and through all, it, to be as as to love the people. Should the direst calamity for these things are the gifts descend, to rejoice, and favors of God. [86^ What the Bahai Movement Is To be silent concerning the faults of others, to pray for them, and to help them, through kindness, to correct their faults. To look always at the good and not at the bad. If a man has ten good qualities and one bad one, look at the ten and forget the one. And if a man has ten bad qualities and one good one, to look at the one and forget the ten. Never to allow ourselves to speak one unkind word about another, even though the other be our enemy. To do all our deeds in kindness. To cut our hearts from ourselves and from the world. To be humble. To be servants of each other and to know that we less than anyone else. are To be as one soul in many bodies; for the more we other, the nearer we shall be to God; love each but to know that our love, our unity, our obedience must not be by confession, but of reality. To act with cautiousness and wisdom. To be truthful. To be hospitable. To be reverent. To be a cause of healing of every sick one, a comforter for every sorrowful one, a pleasant water for every thirsty one, a heavenly table for every hungry one, a star to every horizon, a light for every lamp, a herald to everyone who yearns for the kingdom of God. [87] A Modern Pilgrimage There is a vast amount of literature on the Bahai cause, which is very interesting as well instructive, as and yet only a small portion of it has been translated into English, as the Persian imagery and idiom can hardly be expressed in a language which is devoid of suitable words to express the exact meaning of the original. The works of Baha Ullah are written in the Oriental style, and abound in beautiful imagery; while those of Abdul Baha are clear and concise and can easily be understood by the Occidental mind. Judging by the nature of the questions which have been asked me regarding the Bahai Movement, it would seem that many persons expect some new kind of phil osophy, or mystic "something-new" religion evidently overlooking the fact that there is not so much need for a "new" religion as there is for a renewal and revitaliza- tion of the old essential teachings. All the great teach ers taught practically the same thingsimply suiting whom it their message to the needs of the people for was intended, depending on the stage of their develop ment. outpouring all creeds and religions "In the first the spirit. Were pure, and full of the power of Then comes the act of human defilement; What was good became base, the pure perverted, with tinsel, The robe of Truth is embroidered And outward form replaces true worship." has been epitomized by Baha The Bahai cause [88] What the Bahai Movement Is Ullah in the following quotation, which has become a classic: "We desire but the good of the world and the happiness of the nations; that all nations should become one in faith and all men as brothers; that the bonds of affection and unity between the sons of men should be strengthened; that diversity of religion should cease, and differences of race be annulled. "These fruitless strifes, these ruinous wars, shall pass away, and the 'Most Great Peace' shall come. Yet do we see our kings and rulers lavishing their treasures more freely on means for the destruction of the human race than on that which would con duce to the happiness of mankind. These strifes and this bloodshed and discord must cease and all * * * men be as one kindred and one family. Let not a man glory in this, that he loves his coun try; let him rather glory in this, that he loves his kind." [89] XI Haifa to Tiberias On reaching Haifa, our sense of the romantic received a jolt, as we were conveyed from the railroad station to Pilgrimage House in the small kind of "touring- the car-made-in-Detroit," making us feel that we had not traveled very far after all, and that this particular kind of car was getting to be like "the poor, who are always with us." Pilgrimage House we were the guests of Sir At the Abdul Baha Abbas, who happened to be just then at Tiberias, on the Sea of Galilee. We were in doubt as to whether any or all of us were tocontinue on our way to Tiberias, or whether he would return to Haifa. But two dayslater a messenger from him arrived with in Baha structions for us to visit Behje and the Tomb of after that Ullah on the following Monday, and the day for all of our party to proceed to Tiberias. attended serv The intervening day being Sunday, we which is located on the ices at the Tomb of the Bab, the city of Haifa. Here side of Mt. Carmel, just above for the first time. Lis we heard real Oriental chanting and spontaneous music was tening to this kind of weird for us, and had a thrilling effect on a new experience im our Occidental ears. It was rendered particularly manner of Sheik Mohamed pressive by the wonderful occasion. on that Ali, who officiated [90] Haifa to Tiberias On Monday morning we took the train for the his toric city of Acca (also spelled Akka, and located about ten miles from Haifa), which, in the time of the Cru saders was a royal city and the port of the Kings of Jerusalem. It is located at the northern end of the Bay of Acre, along whose shores are found the Murex shells, from which the ancient Tyrians extracted their famous purple dye. On reaching Acca we decided to walk to Behje, a distance of about two miles, across a level plain, lux uriant with large crimson poppies and other wild flowers ; but like nearly all the country of Palestine, devoted merely to pasturage and the convenience of the Arab herders, whose low, black tents are scattered here and there throughout the valleys. Just before reaching Behje, we met a caravan of camels under the ruined arches of an old Roman acque- duct, and passed a watering trough where a group of women were doing their laundry, just as they have been in the habit of doing for several thousand years. Herds of goats were browsing around among some old ruins, the ensemble presenting a pastoral scene that would please the heart of an artist ; but a scene that had formed the original set several thousand years ago. On reaching Behje, which is a town in name only, we saw the old Governor's palace, where Baha Ullah was allowed to pass the last few years of his earthly life, and near which is his tomb, a place to which pilgrims resort from all parts of the world. From Behje we crossed the plains and continued [] A Modem Pilgrimage around Napoleon's Hill, from which the Little Corporal unsuccessfully bombarded Acca in 1799, finally reach ing the Garden of Rizwan. This is a beautiful spot, though now somewhat neglected. Here Baha Ullah composed some of his later writings, in a small room over which towers a wonderful rose tree, the finest and largest specimen I have ever seen. It is indeed a place of peace and quietude. A little stream runs through the Garden, and with the bright flowers, "the gnarled and antlered trees" and the clear blue sky above, the place was worthy of its name, Rizwan a Persian word meaning Paradise. From Haifa we traveled by train to Semakh, a small, mud-hutted town on the southern end of the Sea of Galilee, passing through the Plain of Esdraelon, near the few village where Deborah once held forth and within a miles of Nazareth, which lies among the hills to the north. jogging along for about twenty-five miles, we After a fertile but entered the valley of the River Jordan, which the almost entirely uncultivated valley, through the "Ford at the Cross rickety train meanders, passing exercised his ministry. We ing" where John the Baptist six hundred and eighty finally reached Semakh, about Mediterranean. At this point feet below the level of the motor and after a two hours boat, we transferred to a arrived at Tiberias, a town ride on the Sea of Galilee, hundred years ago, and dedi built by Herod nineteen It was once the chief cated to the Emperor Tiberius. hand- of Galilee and boasted many city of the Province 192] Haifa to Tiberias size, in some buildings; but it is now greatly reduced of about four thousand souls, three- having a population fourths of whom are Jews. of The Hot Baths, located about a mile or so south the the town, and mentioned in the Old Testament as Baths of Hammath, are the city's principal attraction. cure for rheumatism, They are celebrated as an infallible his faith, and anyone who has nerve enough to back up a bath in the deserves to be cured. Visitors risking place, from the hotel generally visit these Baths at six o'clock in the morning, as soon as the are open, for doors flock in, and by to shortly after that the natives begin have been tested noon the curative powers of the water to the limit, and the pool has reached something near the point of saturation. Mr. B The second day after our arrival at Tiberias, which is about four and I decided to visit Magdala, Wishing to avoid an hour's and one-half miles away. asked the livery man to name haggling about rates, we his lowest at once, price which he gave at one hundred and seventy-five piastres (seven dollars in U. S. money). When we called the deal off and started away, he fol lowed us for a block, wildly begging us to make him first price offer, after he had insisted that his was an bed-rock. His exorbitant demand reminded us of the retired Irishman from Jeru story they tell of a wealthy or elsewhere, who was visiting these parts and salem, the wanted to see the exact spot where they walked on water in Bible times. He arranged with a boatman to row him out for two dollars, but when he was ready to [93] A Modern Pilgrimage return was told that the price would be ten dollars, at which he threw up both his hands and exclaimed: "No wonder they walked on the water in those days!" Anyway, to make a long story short, Mr. B can celed his part of the trip and I was forced to shoulder my camera and proceed along the highway which skirts the shore of the lake to Mejdel, or Magdala, the birth place of Mary Magdalene. At present this is a wretched village of about twenty mud huts and less than half a dozen houses of stone which might be classed as resi dences. Winding through the village was a dusty road filled with dirty half-clad urchins who assailed me with persistent cries of "bakshish!" Just at the entrance to the village a native was mak ing a half-hearted attempt at cultivating a patch of tomatoes with a wooden plough attached to a diminutive donkey, while the partner of his joys and sorrows was crouched down on the newly ploughed ground and be showing no interest in anything in particular. Just which Jesus yond the village is a small plain the one to of the loaves and repaired after performing the miracle fishes. Some distance to the left of Magdala, on the cliffs, are of the ancient caverns of Arbela, once the stronghold robbers which Herod the Great overcame by lowering cages filled with soldiers down into their stronghold. The level plain below is the Land of Gennesaret. In the distance, rising out of the fertile plain, is a on its summit two curiously shaped volcanic hill, having Karn Hattin, or Horns of peaks or horns, now called [94] Haifa to Tiberias Hattin, said to be the place where the Sermon on the Mount was delivered. On the steep hillside, close by, a flock of goats was clambering around, occasionally jarring loose a shower of stones that rattled down into the roadway. Over the tops of the hills a few buzzards were circling around; along the hilly road that follows the shore of the lake an occasional rider was to be seen, jogging along on a small donkey and driving two or three others, or a coupleof camels could be seen lei surely carrying produce to the markets of Tiberias. Far ther along towards the northern end of the lake is another small plain, dotted at present with the white tents of a small military camp, which is said to have been the scene of the Feeding of the Five Thousand. In the middle of the Plain of Gennesaret, which is about three miles long and one mile wide, could be seen indications of a new era which is dawning over this won but long-neglected region. Here were derfully fertile detachments of tanned and husky young men with pick and shovel, grading for a new system of good roads, while groups of equally muscular young women were seated on long piles of rock which they were successfully pulverizing for the macadam surface. On the grade at the farther end of the valley were long trains of horses and military wagons, winding over the hills to a new location. On the following day Abdul Baha placed his carriage at our disposal and we drove again through this coun end of the lake to Bethsaida try and around the northern and almost to Capernaum. We were informed that [95] A Modern Pilgrimage plans have been made for a new city on the site of Bethsaida, commanding a wonderful view down the lake, which is over twelve miles long and six miles wide at its widest point; but at present all is desolation. In visiting these places the traveler who is familiar with the Scriptures will recall the words of the Saviour, who said: "Woe unto thee, Bethsaida! for if the mighty works which were done unto you had been done in Tyre or Sidon, they would have repented long ago in sack * * * cloth and ashes. And thou, Capernaum, which art exalted unto heaven, shall be brought down to hell." As we looked about us we concluded that this proph ecy had been literally fulfilled, and "the line of confu sion" successfully stretched over this entire region. [96] XII Interviews With Abdul Baha Before going further it might be well to explain that the three outstanding figures in the Bahai world are Ali Muhammad, known as the Bab (meaning the Door or Gate) ; Huseyn Ali of Nur, afterwards called Baha Ullah (pronounced Buh-hah Oo-lah, accented on the second and fourth syllables and meaning the "Glory of God"), and Abdul Baha (pronounced Ahb-dool Buh-hah, accented on the first and last syllables, and meaning literally "Slave or Servant of the Glory"). The latter is the son of Baha Ullah, and is the present head of the movement. Among the Bahais these three personages are regarded respectively as the Messenger, the Manifestation and the Expounder of the cause. Of these, the first was martyred in 1850 at the age of thirty, in the public square at Tabriz; the second, Beha Ullah, after being persecuted and imprisoned for nearly forty years, finally departed this life in May, 1892, at Behje, near Acca, where he is buried. Before his death he appointed his son, Abdul Baha to be the "Center of the Covenant," and author ized Expounder of his writings. The only claim that Abdul Baha makes for himself is that he is a great educator, and the Servant of God in this Revelation. Sir Abdul Baha Abbas (as he was recently knighted by the English government), was born in Teheran, [97] A Modern Pilgrimage Persia, May 23, 1844, and is consequently in the seventy- eighth year of his age. He is a genial, kindly man of medium size, somewhat stooped, with long, snow-white hair and beard. His face is browned and seamed with many lines that at first would seem to indicate a man of more advanced age ; but in his movements he is active and alert, while his majestic bearing gives one the im pression that he is a person of prominence and power. You are immediately attracted by his large grey eyes that have a kindly, but searching look, and seem to take in everything at a glance. His mental and physical faculties are in full vigor. He wears a long, brown robe of silk and camel's wool, with wide, flowing sleeves, and his massive head is crowned with a pure white turban. In speech he is ready and apt; his expressions concise and exact, and his genial talks lead up to a point and convey a lesson, which his hearers cannot fail to grasp. During the early stages of our trip I had entertained see this important person (as vague hopes that I might I had not yet received permission to visit him), and often wondered if I would really meet him. You can inter imagine my surprise when I was invited to daily views with him during our short stay in Tiberias, and the honor I felt in being accorded a private interview of three-quarters of an hour's duration. When ushered into his presence, you are greeted with are you ?" in English, strongly a kindly smile and "How accented on the second word. If you reply, "Very well!" he laughingly repeats it in Persian, which is very like the English expression, and invites you to be seated; {98 1 Interviews With Abdul Bahai after which he usually inquires of each one, "Are you well and happy?" Then, after a few preliminary remarks, he begins his talk, which lasts from twenty to thirty minutes. You listen, or answer the questions directed to you, until he has finished, when he rises, shakes hands all around, and ends the interview. As he speaks very little English, his talks are in Persian, and translated by his secretary, Azizullah, who has a ready command of English as well as Persian, Arabic and other languages. In the first interview, which was given in his room in the tower of the hotel at Tiberias, he commented on the beauty of the scenery of Palestine, and related how the Lord told Abraham that it was the finest in the world and if there was anything better He would have given it to him. He then likened it to California, its climate, the contour of the hills, its flowers and foliage being much the same, and in this respect he called California "the Holy Land of America." He concluded his talk with the story of the man who wanted to be come a Bahai. Some years ago, he said, he was traveling through Persia, in company with several others, one of whom was a merchant known to him as a man of rather questionable reputation. The caravan stopped at a cer tain town, and numbers of the people flocked out to meet Abdul Baha. From there they proceeded to another town, where more people came out to meet him; then to another town, where the same thing was repeated. After this had occurred a number of times, and every where crowds of people had invariably rushed out to [99] A Modern Pilgrimage meet him, the merchant called him aside and told him he wished to become a Bahai. On being asked why, he said, "You are a Bahai, and wherever you go great crowds of people flock out to meet you, while no one comes to meet me ; so I wish to become a Bahai." Asked if that was the real reason, he replied, "I also think it will help my business, as I will have all these people come to meet me." Then Abdul Baha told him, "Do not become a Bahai. It is better for you to remain as you are." The moral to this little story was too obvious to need any explanation. The next day Abdul Baha spoke of the essential and non-essential things of life and illustrated his remarks with the story of the young Arab woman who preferred not to live in thecity. It seems that a wealthy man who was traveling through the desert happened to meet a young Arab woman, and being struck with her youth and beauty, begged her to accompany him to the city, other offering her many inducements to do so. Among adorn her with silk and things, he offered to person should have the costly raiment, promising that she beautiful daintiest and most expensive morsels to eat; a to wait her. After palace to live in, and servants upon he had exhausted his glowing arguments, the young Arab woman at him and said, "Why should I laughed be a your expensive prisoner, and shut myself up in walls? Why should I worry with your silks and fine have all that I need. raiment? Here I am happy and and I have the pure The whole blue sky is above me, [100] ESESESESE^BaSSHiailMf esf* ' ^^*V^ E^EMBlssEWiprIbJ iii r Bftiii. *4^ 11 RHsi '* TT ESESEflESESESESEsssflH!^ / m ^B^^^^^^^^^^K^*Se^e^emb1e