# A Pilgrimage to Haifa, November 1919 *Exported from [Holy-Writings.com](https://www.holy-writings.com/) on 2026-06-18 — 1 clipping.* --- > Source: Bahá'í Library Online (bahai-library.com), curated by Jonah Winters. Used by permission of the curator. Original citation: Bahiyyih Randall Winckler, A Pilgrimage to Haifa, November 1919, bahai-library.com. > ────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── > > , 7 > > A > PILGRIMAGE > TO HAIFA > > A gift from > Mildred R. Mottahedeh > November 1919 > Ridvan 152 B.E. > > (Memories of a Young Girl > of 12 Years Old) > > by Bahiyyih Winckler > Dr Lotfullah Hakim w'as waiting for us with > A PILGRIMAGE TO HAIFA 'Abdu'l-Baha's carriage. When the officials began to > argue about our luggage he said we were 'Abdu'l- > Baha's guests and they stopped at once. As we drove > November 1919 past the town it looked strange, so many walls hiding > buildings and the men wearing long white shirts that > (Memories of a Young Girl of 12 Years Old) looked like father's nightgowns. We stopped to let a > line of camels pass. They had square tin boxes > by Bahiyyih Winckler • strapped to their sides, containing a years supply of > butter (I wouldn't like to taste that butter!). > > We left town and began to climb upward, until > the horses stopped before a wall with a large wrought > iron gate. We looked thru the bars to see a sandy yard > with a large stone house in the middle of it. We were > > T > here was a splash; the anchor had to stay there twelve days. Suddenly it was as if a hand > dropped; we had reached Haifa! Seven turned my face to the left. I saw the top of a small > of us were standing on the top deck of building showing above a wall. In the upper half of a > the dirty old ship that we would be glad to leave, window was the face of 'Abdu'l-Baha. He was looking > cockroaches and all. It was early, before breakfast, but at us and yet into some distant place. > we were excited to see Haifa where 'Abdu'l-Baha was. > I was twelve years old and was with my family, Ruth Without any action on my part I became close > and Harry Randall. My younger brother, Bill, was sick to Him. His eyes were radiant and they spoke of love > and three years old and could not come with us at this and wisdom, but there was a look of patient sadness > time. also. He did not speak or move. I looked beyond > Him and there was a large circle of soft pink with a > Soon, little boats came from the shore with men white center, the edges of the circle gray with sparkles > full of business such as seeing passports and asking of gold. It was very beautiful and I became aware that > how much money we had. We hurried them and it was telling me something about the Master, how > ourselves and were finally led to the side of the ship wonderful He was, but I did not understand. > where a thin looking rope ladder would take us to a > small boat way below. We made it but it was scary. Then I was wrapped in a feeling of love to- > Mother started to fall but father caught her. It was wards the Master that flooded my heart. As suddenly > lucky the sea was calm. as this happened, it was over. Later, after I had > thought about such an unusual inCident, I decided it > 2 3 > was a gift from the Master. One that was beyond President traveling incognito. > measure, that would remain with me forever. It was a > gift in two ways: one, that the Master's great station The Master left us after awhile saying that He > was beyond comprehension, and second, that I could had many letters to write and an important guest was > be close to Him if I loved Him. coming for lunch. The meal was brought from the > Master's house and consisted of soup, fish, pilaf and > Our new home proved to be spacious for all of kabob. There was lots to eat and we were hungry. > us. Fugita had gone to the household of the Master After lunch I went to my room to open my steamer > where he longed to be. There was Arthur Hathaway, trunk. People at home wanted us to take pictures so I > Albert Vail, George Latimer and our family. Doctor took out my Brownie Box camera and lots of film. > Esselmont occupied one room because he was ill and > writing a book about the Faith. We stood by his door In the afternoon a Colonel and Mrs Allison and > and greeted him. He looked tired but kind. a Mr Denham came from the ship asking if they could > see 'Abdu'l-Baha. My family talked about the Faith to > Shoghi Effendi was 10 years older than I. He everyone on the ship. Father had asked Shoghi > came to greet us and to say that the Master would be Effendi if it was all right. Later we were all invited to > coming very soon, and there He was in the doorway! the Master's house. As we entered the gate I saw the > I caught my breath but He smiled and welcomed us little building up against the wall. Shoghi. Effendi said . > with enthusiasm. He shook our hands and made us it was a place where the Master could be alone and > feel that He was really glad that we had come. We all rest. The Master's house is large with a big central > sat down when He did. room with doors leading to other parts of the house. > > He asked us about our trip. No one told Him Also in the afternoon we went to a gathering at > about the terrible storm in the Mediterranean. The old the Shrine of the Bab. Mother and I were sad because > ship, which was not used anymore, was brought back the ladies of the Master's household could not be seen > into service to carry troops during the war. It groaned by strange men, not even in Holy Places. It is a Musand shook when the huge waves crashed down upon lim rule. > us. The captain said it was the worst storm he had > ever been in. We were a little frightened, but perhaps There were many people including Persians on > the Master knew this and protected us. pilgrimage. The Shrine has more than one room and > the Master led us to a door where we all took off our > 'Abdu'l-Baha spoke of President Wilson and it shoes. There was a big pile of them and I wondered if > was interesting because father looks so much like him. any were ever stolen or if owners took the wrong > When we entered one of the Consulates in Europe on shoes by mistake. I stood by the Master's side and as > our way to Haifa, the staff arose thinking it was the each person entered the room, the Master put rose > 4 5 > water in their hands. He had a very small bottle and I bed. I was told it burns a long time ... a gallant little > watched. There was always enough, even for me at wick! > the end. How could it be? Maybe it was a miracle. In > this room there was chanting but I could not under- Then it was dinner with the Master. Mother and > stand the words. I put on our best dresses. Dinner was at 7:30 and we > were on time. Father was never late to anything. He > Then we took turns going to the entrance of a said the Master was the same, unless there was a > second room where the body of the Bab lies below reason, "I was never allowed one." > floor level. A beautiful rug covers the Spot. We only > went to the entrance which was covered with flowers 'Abdu'l-Baha placed each person at the table. > and knelt and bowed our heads. I wondered why Mother at the head, father and George part way down, > some men were weeping. My father said it was a very and Shoghi Effendi and Dr Hakim at the bottom > special and important time for peoples' hearts. because they were taking notes of all that the Master > said. He placed me on His left side. That was to be > my place all during our visit. > > Sitting across from me was what the Master > called a Sheik. I was fascinated because I had read > First Day about such men. I wondered if he had tents filled > with silk pillows and women lying on them. Fugita > here were many experiences in even one > > T day. When we reached home after > visiting the Shrine mother showed me > two things. One was the toilet. A small building the > came in carrying large plates of pilaf and other things. > The pilaf had dainty pieces of meat and vegetables > mixed into the rice, and on top, pine nuts. > size of a clothes closet was near the house. Inside, it > The Master talked a great deal but never lost > had a wooden shelf with a hole in the middle. That is > sight of anyone's plate, and when empty He would > where we sat, over the hole! I was afraid that > arise from His chair and, still talking, fill the plate. He > something underneath would bite me. > did this to father twice and I knew he was struggling > to eat it all, but no one would leave even a speck. > The second was the lighting in the bedrooms. > When the Master was silent no one spoke. There was > There was a drinking glass 2/3 full of water. On top of > a loving respect that one could feel. Shoghi Effendi > this was a thin layer of oil, and on top of that was a > did the interpreting as the Master spoke and he did not > little round piece of stiff pink paper with about 1/4 > seem to have time to eat very much. > inch wick pushed partly thru the middle hole of the > paper. It lighted my room enough to get ready for > When dinner was finished the Master arose and > 6 7 > went to a wash basin by His bedroom door, washed about this word or that. When they had finished > . > His hands and beard and then said goodnight. As He Shoghi Effendi took the papers to the Master for His > went through the door I felt lonely. Everyone else approval. > arose and went on their way home. > Sometimes the Master corrected a word or two, > but seldom according to Shoghi Effendi. The Master > always spoke to me in English and did so with others > when he wished to. > Day Two Luncheons continued to be brought to us from > the Master's house. Shoghi Effendi and Lotfullah were > he next morning bagpipes woke me up. > > T A division of the British Army was > stationed on Mt. Carmel. They used > bagpipes instead of bugles. They were loud enough > always with us and sometimes Dr. Esselmont. The > wonderful surprise was that this day the Master came > saying that He would be with us every day. Shoghi > Effendi assured us that this was a great honor because > to wake everyone up. Father came in having walked He seldom had time to do this. The big table with the > up to the Shrine of the Bab and back. He said we did white cloth was made beautiful when the Master took > not come here to sleep. I thought, spiritual people, fragrant jasmine blossoms from a large handkerchief in > but not me! his pocket and tossed them into the center of the table. > At seven thirty a maid came in with a large cup The Master was always so happy even when > of black coffee for father. He was astonished. Who one day He was terribly tired, having had only four > could know what his custom was in the mornings? hours sleep and no breakfast. We became like a > The dear Master, of course! We were learning that He family, feeling free to laugh and ask questions (but > knew us better than we knew ourselves. Breakfast always with respect). > consisted of tea, served in tiny glasses so hot that one > couldn't hold them at first, eggs, cheese and bread. Mother spoke of the death of Sandy Kinney and > The bread was the size of a large pancake and when the Master said He would send a message. I asked for > cut open was hollow and food could be put inside like a message for Howey Kinney who was my best friend. > a sandwich. The Master spoke at once, "Although thy brother has > ascended to the Abha Kingdom and has not remained > Shoghi Effendi and Dr Lotfullah arrived after long in this world, My hope is that on behalf of thy > breakfast to begin the translation into English of the brother thou mayst strive on behalf of thy parents.» > talks of 'Abdu'l-Baha. Father and George Latimer > helped. They made every effort to be accurate, talking The Master had an inexhaustible supply of > 8 9 > , > stories. His facial expressions and tone of voice made had a strange feeling in my body and when He left, > a story seem real. The little dog story I liked best, so the feeling left. I thought perhaps it was due to > here it is as I remember it. According to the Master: excitement. But it comes whenever I am with Him. > have tried to describe it to myself and perhaps it's like > We were at Akka when Kamel Pasha became a very mild electric current might feel like. It does not > Prime Minister. His brother became governor of Acca. hurt but makes me feel uneasy. > In Turkey the brother of the prime minister could do > whatever he wished. One day he came with a carriage Mother and I were invited to have tea with the > and we went out together. On the way I noticed that Master's family this afternoon. Tea was served in the > he had a hunting outfit and he had four or five large room opposite the front door of the Master's home. > hunting dogs. A gazelle was sighted. These dogs There was the Greatest Holy Leaf (the Master's sister), > chased after it. One of the Baha'is had a small dog, an His wife and their four daughters, one of whom spoke > Arab Baha'i. He also had come. These five dogs of English, named Munawar. She became Mother's close > the governor did not catch anything. This little dog friend. > caught a large gazelle. > They greeted us with love and were eager to > The governor became ashamed. When the hear news of America. The Master sat with us for > dogs returned he began to beat them. He said, "What awhile. He reads the newspapers, but He talks with us > can I do? The Baha'is are assisted. These five dogs of just the same. I remember when His little grandson, > mine could catch nothing, but this little dog did." He Foad, rushed in to say that his pet donkey had a fever > dismounted and took the little dog in his arms and and would the Master please pray for him. They left > kissed it. He told the owner of the dog that he would together to see the animal. There were meetings > not give it back to him. before dinner with the Master, pilgrims, guests and > people from various places in the world. They show > 'Abdu'l-Baha told us about all kinds of things, respect and love for 'Abdu'l-Baha. Some come for the > even a potato, my favorite food. He said that sixty first time yet the Master knows them and speaks as if > years ago they introduced the potato into Persia. they were friends. Sometimes I forget how wonderful > There was so much superstition that they used to say the Master is because He is so natural, and yet we are > that whoever eats it becomes an infidel. No one but shadows compared to Him. > would eat it except those who took it with wine. > There was so much prejudice. Now see what > Baha'u'llah has done. Now we are all gathered > around one table, filled with love! > > Yesterday when the .Master first came to see us I > 10 11 > Day Three the Children of the Kingdom' - I will send a Tablet." > > hen Shoghi Effendi came this morn At luncheon the Master turned to me saying, > > W ing, he said that the Master would > give us each a private interview. > Mother's would be this morning. I was a little afraid to > "Your name is Bahiyyih. It means light and there must > be something to make the light." He had a twinkle in > His eyes and a big smile. > have mine for fear I would cry or say something silly. > To be alone with the Master would not be an ordinary I loved the name at once, it had a soft musical > experience. Mother said I could go with her, so we sound. My name, Margaret, had a harsh sound and I > hurried along. It was pouring rain. He greeted us in had never liked it. Later, I learned the name Bahiyyih > His loving way by putting both hands to His forehead. was the name of the sister of 'Abdu'l-Baha , the > He took us to the meeting room (Reception), seated Greatest Holy Leaf. My brother received the name > us, and then sat down opposite us. I called it the Baha'I, in a Tablet to father. What a blessing for us > "meeting room." both - and what a challenge! I'm sure the Master > heard my heart saying thank you. > Mother had lots to say. She had brought > messages from people in the States. She also wanted Luncheon that day was especially fun. The > to know about herself. Her biggest question was Master encouraged Fugita to try and teach him to eat > whether the Master would like father and herself to rice with chopsticks. We all laughed, even the Master. > build a Western Pilgrim House - where Baha'IS from Fugita for many years had longed to be able to come > the West could stay when they were on pilgrimage. to Haifa and be of service in the Master's home. > The Master smiled and said, "Very good, very good." Father had seen him in Naples, stranded because ships > were scarce. Father arranged for him to come with us. > Then it was my turn. I stood up and asked (I > heard this coming out of my mouth, with surprise), The Master teased me about food the entire > "What can I do to s.erve the Faith?" There was silence visit. He would ask if I liked something that was being > for a few minutes and then I heard, "Study, study, served. If I said, "A little," He would usually say, "I > STUDY." When the Master wanted to emphasize know what you are thinking." And the next day for > something He would repeat it three times, His voice me we would have chicken and potatoes, and it tasted > getting louder and louder. good! Another time we had a delicious sweet that > looked like pink shredded wheat, only it was very > I told about Ella Robarts who was publishing a brittle. It was a real treat. He was so kind and > little magazine for Baha'I children. Would the Master thoughtful. > please give it a name. He replied, "'The Magazine of > When the Master left it was raining. Mother > 12 13 > handed Him an umbrella as He started down the front > listening to what 'Abdu'l-Baha might have wanted to > steps. It was a cold rain and mother was worried he > say. > might catch a chill. He did not seem concerned and > handed the umbrella to Shoghi Effendi. The Master is > not really like we are. He can control Nature, even > raindrops and a storm like He did when He was in the > United States. Day Four > Mother likes being with the ladies. They talk decided to go down to the end of the yard > about what is going on in the Faith because the ladies > hear very little news. They also talk about marriage, > children and sometimes cooking. I seldom stay after > I to see who our neighbors were. I was > about to start when a message came from > the Master asking me not to go because His enemies > tea. I now enjoy the little glasses of hot sweet tea. lived there. I was grateful He had stopped me, but > how did He know? I had not told anyone. Living here > Since it was still raining I went down to our under the protection of a loving Master is a gift never, > house. Dr Esselmont was Sitting in a chair in his room never to forget. > so we talked together. He said the Master was helping > him a lot with his book - helping him clarify things. Mother and I went shopping in town. She > bought rosaries to take back to friends . She had heard > I told Esselmont about a dream I had. For years that if one wanted to count the Greatest Name ninety- > I heard believers talking about their dreams, all of five times with a rosary it helped one's concentration. > them remarkable according to them. I wanted to have At noon the Master talked a long time. Our desert was > a dream that I could talk about, but it never happened. a dish of fresh dates. I tasted them in Cairo and de- > Then one night - I was so excited - it happened. I cided never to eat them again, or yogurt (mast). When > was with Jesus. As people came to see Him He gave I made up my mind about something I seldom > each one a pearl. They were about the size of a changed. That was why I was naughty lots of times - > grapefruit, round and white, wrapped in veils of soft at least that is what I was told. > color. They looked so pretty. The people bowed as > they accepted a pearl. Jesus was happy. I was happy The Master put two dates on a little plate in > too! You see I always enjoyed stories about Jesus, front of me and explained that they helped the diges-· > especially the one about the five loaves and two fish. tion and gave heat to the body. Then He arose from > I was glad my special dream was about Him. the table and left us. We always went to the door to > watch Him walk home. Then I looked at the dining > Before dinner we went to the evening meeting. room table and again it had been cleared and I was > This night non-Baha'is asked questions rather than thankful, the dates were gone. But in a corner of the > room was the little plate and it had the two dates on it. Master cares for. This man could not move his arm to > lift a spoon to his mouth. The Master gently helps him .' > I stood on one foot and then the other. Must I while He talks and watches peoples' plates. This man > eat those dates? Every reason why not came into my was one of the four Hands of the Cause of God apmind. I discovered one date was a little rotten, so of pointed by Baha'u'llah, Ibn-i-Asdaq. He had also done > course it would not be necessary to eat that one. But wonderful work for the Faith. During dinner the > something also kept saying to me, the Master told you Master turned to me saying, "Yogurt is very good." He > to, "The Master never asks you to do something unless turned to Fugita and asked him to get some for me. > it is for your own good." After about ten minutes I ate He returned at once saying there was none and should > both dates. I felt heroic, wise and relieved. he go next door? The Master said, "No that is not > necessary. " > There was much activity at tea time. Mother > took my dresses for the ladies to copy the patterns. Then He looked at me with such a kind look. > Many Baha'i women came and went. The Master's This is what had happened to me. When the Master > wife is going away but she has four daughters who said yogurt, I reacted in only one way - instant obewill help take care of things. But I have noticed that it dience. I did not remember that I had decided never > is to the Greatest Holy Leaf whom everyone turns to to even smell it again. The Master had shown me in a > for help and advice. She is gentle and loving, but way I could understand what obedience means. When > strong too. God speaks through His chosen channels, His Teachers, do not question it for your own good and happi- > After tea I wandered into the garden that sur- ness. This was yet another gift from the Master that I > rounds part of the Master's house. An old man called had needed. It was a basic lesson for a lifetime. > Haydar All was Sitting on a bench in the sun. I asked > the young man sitting next to him what Mr All had > done for the Faith. He asked the question and the > answer was, "I have not done as much as an ant > would do for the Faith of God." The young man had Day Five > fire in his eyes and I realized that I should not have > asked such a thing. Shoghi Effendi was in the garden. > He had a grapefruit in his hand. I asked if I could take > his picture and he said yes. Shoghi Effendi was completely devoted to his grandfather and was always · > , I > t is still raining. I guess we are going to > have a wet pilgrimage. Shoghi Effendi said > we would go to Akka on the first clear day. > The Master came to see Dr Esselmont because he is > helpful and kind to me. J not well. He stOod in his doorway quite awhile. He > said He was sorry He could not stay with us but would > At dinner there was another old man whom the > 16 17 > come for lunch. At lunch He told more stories about Day 'Six > Christ and the Jews. He never said unkind things. > t was a very cold day but the rain stopped. > In the afternoon I helped the ladies clean > wheat. There are great bags of it and we pulled it > towards us little by little, looking for the little stones > I Mother went to bed with a hot water bottle. > Aziz Yazdi came to see me. He is about my > age. His family live in Haifa. Imagine living near the > that cause trouble. We sat around a large round table. Master all the time. I enjoyed his visit. > When we finished sorting I walked around in the > house because it was still raining. I saw a door partly We had brought a small trunk full of gifts, and > open down a little hallway. I was quiet but the · father asked if the Master would accept them. He said > Greatest Holy Leaf heard me and asked me to come in. that because we wanted so much to give them it > She was on her bed and I was sorry to have disturbed would be acceptable. When lunch was finished the > her, but she smiled and got up to show me some trunk was opened. To our horror the yellow package > interesting pictures and things that she had. She spoke of bug powder mother had put in had broken. It took > little English but her eyes are what talked. Her face some time to clean the powder off everything. There > looked dreadfully tired but her eyes were like the were typewriters and watches for both men and > Master's, so alive and expressive. She is not like the women. The Master was given a beautiful watch that > other ladies. fit in His pocket. Shoghi Effendi liked the typewriter. > There were three lengths of a special wool material for > She is apart, like the Master. It was a joy to be coats for the Master. It was soft as a bunnies ear. > with her. I loved her. She gave me a Persian pen box Mother took these to the Greatest Holy Leaf to be > before I left. Mother often sits beside her afternoons made up as the Master wished. He said He had one > because she also feels something special. coat and did not need others. The Greatest Holy Leaf > asked Him to accept the material as it would be rude > A few days before we left the Greatest Holy not to. A coat was made and He wore it for us to see. > Leaf also gave us a piece of "rock candy" that The next day father was walking out the front door > Baha'u'llah used to give those in the Ridvan Garden. when he saw a poor man walking down the street > It was the last piece she had! It looked like crystal. with the coat on! > > There were seventeen for dinner. 'Abdu'l-Baha > seemed tired and He answered questions rather than > to give a talk. He went to His room without even > saying goodnight and we knew He was exhausted. > > Hakim knows a lot about history and he said it must > Day Seven date back to about 1799 when Napoleon tried to take > the fortress. I wanted to keep it but father said "No!" > he bagpipes awakened me->and for once I > > T was glad because Shoghi Effendi came > early to say it was clear and we could go > to Acca. We had finished breakfast by seven forty five > We entered the courtyard where Baha'u'llah > used to walk for exercise. While there a very old man, > Aga Hossein, came. Shoghi Effendi had sent for him > and went to the street. The Master was there making as he was the only living survivor of those terrible > all the arrangements. There were eleven of us going: days, with the exception of the Master and Bahiyyih > our group, Shoghi Effendi, Dr Lotfullah, Fugita, Khinum, the Greatest Holy Leaf. As we saw each > Dr Suliman Rifat, Esfandiar, the faithful coachman and room he told us about what had happened. > the Master's devoted servant, and Khosrar, a young > Hindu boy. The Master seated us, and He saw that One was where the Master made soup. We saw > our luncheon was safely packed. There were two the first room Baha'u'llih had slept in, and the second > carriages with three horses each. The Master wished one was up a steep flight of stairs. There was no > us a happy day and we were off! furniture, not even a bed or chair. It seemed > impossible that Baha'u'llih could be treated that way. > We went up the mountain a little then turned We also saw the room where the Purest Branch, Mirza > left going along a road that soon dropped down to the Mihdi, had fallen through the skylight. It was sad to > sea. This was the best road to Acca and there were be in such a place. The old man had made those > caravans and groups of loaded donkeys slowly moving awful days vivid - he seemed to live them over again. > along. He stopped to rest the horses once, and stretch > our legs. Then Esfandiar took us around in the back We left the barracks and met the carriages to be > of Acca because the streets were narrow. We taken to the Ridvan Garden. I remember something > approached the back of a huge fortress (now called the Greatest Holy Leaf had told us. She had said they > the barracks) where Bahi'u'lhih, His family and follow- were marvelously happy in the barracks because they > ers were imprisoned for two years. It was a dreadful had not been separated from Baha'u'llih. The Garden > looking place. is surrounded by a stream, like an island. I would call > it a brook. We crossed a short bridge and entered a > We left the carriage and walked along a path place of flowers and fruit. It was November and yet > towards the entrance of the barracks. We crossed a the Garden looked so fresh and happy. > flimsy bridge covering two deep moats - they used to > be filled with water, and were deep. I noticed an odd The gardener came to talk to us. He pointed > pile of earth beside the path and dug at it with a stick. out special plants, some of which had been carried all > It proved to be an old cannon ball. Dr Lotfullah the way from Persia by pilgrims, some of whom had > 20 21 > walked. He went to the mulberry trees with the bench donkey standing in the meta1 door. There was also a > underneath where Baha'u'llah used to sit sometimes long green snake moving among some rocks - I didn't J > > resting, and other times dictating imp0r:!~t Tablets. like that. When we walked to the left of Bahji to a > small building where the Master stayed when He > The table was set up near the trees and we visited the Shrine of Baha'u'llah. They were invited by > enjoyed a delicious pilaf. The desert was fruit from the caretakers to have tea and entered a little room > the Garden: oranges, dates, lemons, pomegranates and that was partly open to a small courtyard where > watermelon. It was truly a very special garden. The flowers grew. Bahji' was the last place where > little fountain near where we were sitting was not Baha'u'llah had lived. It is in Acca. We were now > working. I wanted to see it flowing because it would going to enter the Shrine, for Baha'fs the holiest spot > be like the days when Baha'u'llah was there. on earth! > > The gardener took us to a corner of the prop- First we went through a small garden that the > erty where a fence enclosed a round dirt track. A Master had made, and then through a large door. We > donkey was standing there. The donkey when, blind- took off our shoes. Shoghi Effendi gave us rose water > folded, would walk round and round the track and the for our faces, then we stepped inside a large room > water would begin to flow (the donkey wouldn't walk with a small garden in the center. It was raised above > until it was blindfolded). The fountain came alive, the floor level and had a glass roof over it. The floor > making a soft sound. How cool it must have been was covered with a beautiful Persian rug. After a few > sitting beside the fountain on a hot day. It was selfish minutes of silent prayer Shoghi Effendi chanted the > of me to ask but it was so lovely and we all enjoyed it. Tablet of Visitation, a special prayer to be said at the > Shrine. It was so spiritual. > After lunch we were taken to the little building > where Baha'u'llah used to rest and have tea. It had Then we entered the small room where the > not changed. His room was up a short flight of stairs body of Baha'u'llah had been placed below floor level. > and underneath was where the gardener lived. In this It was in the middle of the room with a magnificent > Garden one feels close to Him perhaps because He rug over it. We stood silently. I could not even think. > loved it. I just felt great peace and power, as if Nature also > stood still in that room. We stepped down from the > Then we were off to the Mansion of Bahji. On room with a feeling of reverence. > the way they stopped to show us the little house that > was partly in ruins where the Master for many years We went back to the carriages -- the day in this > had welcomed the pilgrims. There was still a little most holy part <~fthe world was over. I knew it would > garden there. A short way from Bahji we left the live with me forever and ever. We went back by way > carriages and walked. I ran ahead and saw a little of the sea and this time the waves splashed up on the > 22 23 > wheels of the carriages. Then we saw the Master Master. 'Abdu'l-Baha came after a few minutes and > standing at our gate waiting to welcome us back. stood looking at the sea. He told us that someday the > "Have you had a happy day?" He asked,;~Rest now drive to Acca and the Holy Shrine would be beautiful > until the evening meeting." He knew our hearts were with orange groves. A great breakwater would be > full to the brim. The evening was long. Three times built to form a harbor and ships from all over the > dinner was announced but the Master had left us so world would come. The Shrine of the Bab would be > we just sat. I thought I was approaching starvation. lighted and would be a landmark for ships and planes. > Then we heard voices. The Master was coming in Then He turned to the Shrine and stood by the door of > with Colonel and Mrs Allison saying He had been the large room. I stood by Him as He gave everyone a > waiting for them (they had not said they were little rose water. It was the same story - the little > coming). Dinner was very late and it was good to bottle that never got empty. It was -more than I could > finally get into bed. What a day! My little light com- understand. We went to the room where the Bab's > forted me. body lies. Shoghi Effendi chanted the Tablet of Visitation. There is something in the Shrines that one's heart > responds to. Then the carriage was waiting to take us > down the hill. > Day Eight > At dinner the Master spoke about airplanes, > how they would get bigger and bigger and faster and > t was a lovely day. I went for a walk up the > > I mountain. I kept thinking that perhaps one > of the Prophets had walked along this same > path. Mt. Carmel is a fascinating place because it > faster. > > seems to have been a center for spiritual thought. > There are a few wild flowers, but not enough for > mother to dry. She wanted to take some back home Day Nine > with her. > t was another clear day. We had so much > After luncheon the Master patiently waited > while we took lots of pictures. He also arranged a > group picture. Dr Esselmont was well enough to be > I rain but no one seemed to mind or even > talk about it. Our house continues to be > very cold. I feel sorry for Dr Esselmont. The Master > with us - he is such a dear person. In the afternoon came again early in the morning to talk with him. The > we all went to the Shrine of the Bab. A carriage took luncheons were....- our happiest times because the Master > some of us up over the awful rocky road. Father had was so jolly. (kept thinking about this because we > gone up earlier as he had a private talk with the have grown so close to Him. I asked Him which city > 24 25 > He liked best in the United States and He said, Day Ten > "Washington, Chicago, San Francisco." Then He > paused again and said, "San Francisco."_/So, the city in t was raining again. At noon time it came > the West had won. > > After lunch Shoghi Effendi brought us a brass > I down in sheets but the Master came for > lunch just the same. He sits with us not as > a wise man who can accomplish anything but as > charcoal burner. It took the chill off our big room. someone who is part of our lives. I think about this > Mother wanted to buy one to take home because it is every day because I do not understand lots of things. > so nice to look at and the heat is pleasant. The little current is still with me when He comes near. > Also, He never seems to leave us - I mean in spirit. > We went to see the ladies a bit earlier. Mother Whatever I do each day it is as if He is by my side. > is sad about leaving them. She has asked the Greatest The family talks about things like this. Maybe one day > Holy Leaf to tell her how to bake the rice that is so I will realize more than now, when I am older. > delicious. The Master came for tea and mother spoke > of the attractive brass heater that gives such a comfort- The Master was in the tearoom reading a > able heat. The Master said he did not like the furnace newspaper when Mrs Allison, mother and I arrived. > heat we had in America because it was heavy and dull. > His welcome is always so warm. He did not stay long > He said that ventilation was important and He had to > so mother asked the Greatest Holy Leaf if she would > open windows. They talked a lot about this subject. > tell us about some of her experiences with Baha'u'llah. > I stayed. I loved history. She talked a long time, > Colonel and Mrs Allison came again for the telling about things that were sad and cruel. I will > evening meeting and dinner. Mother says they are never forget one thing she told us. The second night > deeply interested in the Faith. The dinner hour in the barracks in Acca when they had no comfort and > brought us something that we had not seen before. little food, they got to laughing. Baha'u'llah came to > The Master spoke on martyrdom and He became the door telling them to be quiet because the jailers > radiant. His face shone, His voice was loud and would think they were crazy. > powerful, and we could hardly eat. It seemed as if > everything must be shaking, even the atoms. He said After tea time mother received a lovely Persian > that he longed to be martyred for the Faith, but doesn't headdress from Munavvar. Mother in turn gave her > He have that everyday? Shoghi Effendi has told us what she had admired, her long necklace of amber > about what the Master suffers, especially froni en- beads. > emies. > There was more interesting history at dinner. > The Master said that this is the ground where the > > 26 27 > Prophets had walked. They dwelt here to give the The blood of Baha'u'llah was drawn at that time and > glad tidings that a day would come when the tent of put in a vase. There it became congealed. We could ,l > > the Lord would be pitched here. Baha'u'Uah had not comprehend that we had such a gift, that it was > of > pitched His tent near where the Shrine the Bab was real. I prayed about it and finally put it away in my > placed. Jesus used to walk across Mt. Carmel to Haifa trunk. > and Nazareth. Mohammed came once when He was > eleven years old and again when He was twenty eight. After all the spiritual excitement the Greatest > Holy Leaf told us that she would show us how to cook > After dinner, as the Master was leaving He said, the rice. We went to a little room where there was a > "These meals have been very happy. They are the charcoal fire burning. The rice is washed and then put > Lord's supper because the wish and purpose has been in boiling salt water until it is just soft enough to break > concerning the affairs of God." (about four or five minutes). It is then strained and > some butter is put in the pot and browned a little. The > rice is slowly put in with a sprinkling of spices and the > tiny pieces of meat. On top of this is placed two large > pieces of butter and then the cover is replaced. This is > Day Eleven put on a slow charcoal fire, and ashes and more charcoal are placed on top. It remains this way for three > > T > his morning the Greatest Holy Leaf sent quarters of an hour. > us each a gift by Shoghi Effendi. He said > we must guess what it was and handed While this was being cooked, the Greatest Holy > us each a small envelope. We thought, but could not > Leaf said it was strange that I came to find out how to > guess correctly. In each envelope was a tiny piece of cook when 'Abdu'l-Baha's own daughters did not > the blood of Baha'u'llah. No one knew what to say. I > know how. Munavvar laughed and said she could not > felt sort of numb, I could not grasp having such a > cook it, but knew just how it should be done. > thing. We were all silent. It was the most precious gift > in the world (how do you say thank you?). > Later in the afternoon the Master told us our > ship had come and we must leave tomorrow. He had > I wondered where I could put mine. Mother > told father several days ago that He would like us to > said hers must go into a solid gold box. This gift did > go to Germany and several other places. Now that > not leave my mind, my thoughts, for a long time. > was all changed and father was to go directly home, > When we went for tea mother asked the Greatest Holy > that "things would not be to his liking there." > Leaf about it. She said it was a custom in Persia in the > Spring to draw a certain amount of blood from the > forearm of a person as it was considered to be healthy. > > 28 29 > Day Twelve > ur last day. The Master came early for > > O lunch and asked us to join Him in Dr > Esselmont's room. He spoke > of His great love for us and that we must go > Bahiyyih Winckler was born in 1907 to > Ruth and Hany Randall, early American believers > back with our hearts full of love to give to others. > in the Faith ofBaha 'u 'llah. > Lunch was short. Mother and I said goodbye to the > Ruth Randall was the first to become a > ladies and mother wept. Then the Master called us > Baha'i, and it was the Master himself who brought > again, shook our hands and gave us loving messages. > Hany into the Faith in 1912. The Randalls were > We all felt that it was hard to part. > well known in New England social and financial > circles. Hany was the preSident of the Boston- > We went back in the pouring rain to get our > Maine Railroad, and it was the Randalls who > luggage and the Master called father to Him once > bought the Green Acre property in Eliot, Maine, as > again. Father came back weeping only to tell us that > a place of worship, study and fellowship for the > he had been alone with the Master and He was so > New England Baha'is. > wonderful. > Inspired by the powerful words and supreme > example of the Master (so lovingly recorded in this > The Persian believers came in the rain to wave > diary of 1919), Bahiyyih did indeed grow into a > us goodbye. Shoghi Effendi, Dr Lotfulla Hakim and > bright "light" among the handmaidens of His > Fugita joined us in the carriage and even went in the > Cause, a tireless servantfor the Faith . In 1953, > little boat to the ship. > under the direction of the Guardian, Bahiyyih > assumed a pioneering post in Durban, South > Then we were in the outside world again. The > Africa, working and sharing the teachings of > people at the dock and on the ship seemed so lifeless > Baha'u'llah with the black population for over 40 > and dull. The world seemed cold. > years. She now lives in Sabie, Transval, South > Africa, and, as a young girl of 88 years, continues > I had left the heart of the world. > to teach . > > 30 31 > > — *A Pilgrimage to Haifa, November 1919 (Used by permission of the curator)*