My Pilgrimage to the Land of Desire
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Source: Bahá'í Library Online (bahai-library.com), curated by Jonah Winters. Used by permission of the curator. Original citation: Marie A. Watson, My Pilgrimage to the Land of Desire, New York: Bahá'í Publishing Committee, 1932, bahai-library.com.
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MY PILGRIMAGE
TO THE LAND OF DESIRE
by Marie A. Watson

Approved by Reviewing Committee of the
National Spiritual Assembly of the
Bahd'ts of the United States
and Canada

MRS. WATSON WITH A GROUP OUTSIDE THE GARDEN OF THE RIDVAN.

Published for the
EXECUTOR OF T H E ESTATE OF MARIE A. W A T S O N
BY
B A H A ' l P U B L I S H I N G COMMITTEE, N E W YORK

1932
MY PILGRIMAGE
TO THE LAND OF DESIRE

O
N JULY 9TH, 1921, I sailed on the Greek ship "King Alexander" from New York to the Land of Desire with
Jenáb-i-Fadil MázandaránÌ, the distinguished Persian
sent to the United States by His Holiness, ùAbdul-Bahá.
For over eighteen months Jenáb-i-Fadil had lectured in this country
and Canada, expounding most eloquently the Universal Teachings
of the Baha'i Revelation to large and appreciative audiences. He was
my companion on a voyage full of dramatic incidents, for the war
between the Turks and Greeks was in full swing. Finally, however, after strange scenes at sea and stranger experiences on land,
we arrived at the station of Haifa, Palestine.
Jenáb-i-Fadil and myself were greatly fatigued by the last troublesome stretch of our journey. For example, we stood for nearly two
hours before a little window which I dubbed "postage stamp" because of its size, and which was most annoyingly out of my reach
by two or more feet. The impatient crowd, composed of many nationalities, swayed this way and that around me, demanding attention. Behind the window was only one man to serve this mass of a
hundred or more persons, all bent upon pushing their passports
through the little opening. It was confusion worse confounded!
The poor Frenchman at the window, sweltering in the heat,
mopped his dripping brow, frantically expostulating to the indignant crowd that he could serve but one at a time. This acted only
as a spur, for they continued to push only the more desperately
until they came to blows and imprecations of an assorted variety.
It was past midnight when I finally carried our passports, duly
vised, in triumph to the Guarantee Officer, leaving many waiting
ones behind. This triumph had been won by a little ruse which I
felt to be justifiable. I was tired and almost fainting, and a happy    the roadside which was bordered with immense cactus trees loaded
thought was expressed in the following: "O Monsieur, sil vous           with large purple thistles, the fruit of which was adorned by prickly
plait void une dame trés malade: veuillez I'assister!" This brought     thorns. I asked one of the guards on the train whether Palestine
the desired result, for the French are ever ready to assist a lady in   used this fruit for fodder as in California where the science of
distress. The business was at once dispatched, and very soon there-     Burbank has made this possible. The guard stared at me, exclaiming
after Jenáb-i-Fadil and myself were conducted to our train.             "Mon Dieu, Madame!" and then at length explained that it was not
It was extremely hot, as the thermometer had registered 120 de-      used for cattle, but that the natives used it as a staple food, and
grees throughout the day, but now a furtive breeze relieved the heat    sometimes during the war period it was all they had. The outer
from time to time. My companion was placed at one end of the car         layer of the fruit was stripped off, the spikes with it, leaving the
and I at the other. We said "Good Night," although it was morn-         solid part and the juice. I found it cool and refreshing later when
ing, but this was only in keeping with many other paradoxical ex-       some was procured. I learned too that the juice is boiled and made
periences of the journey. Now I found myself in a very comfortable       into an excellent syrup not unlike our maple syrup.
compartment with an excellent berth and every convenience. It is            My heart-beats increased perceptibly as Jenab-i-Fadil announced
due to the French, who are in occupation here, that much has been
that we were now less than an hour from Haifa; indeed, my heart
done for the comfort of the traveller.
galloped as though trying to reach there before the rest of me!
I was somewhat dismayed as I read a notice by which one was              "HaifÏ, HaifÏ, all out for HaifÏ!" cried the guard, and everybody
warned not to leave the window open as one's baggá*ge might disscrambled, collecting baggage, and endeavoring to get a carriage.
appear. Too tired to care very much, my bump of caution, however,
We were fortunate in securing a vehicle and, our baggage beside us,
causing me to lock my valise in the closet, I murmured a sleepy
we proceeded on our way through the narrow streets and stony
"Alláh-u-Abhá" and was soon beyond the pale of mortal disturbroad leading to the House of the Master, ùAbdu'l-Bahá.
ances. Sleep was interrupted by a medley of jolts, bells and bellow-
What strange sights greeted our eyes! The people seemed clothed
ings until, consulting my watch, I found it was five a.m. and the
in fantastic garb, and every color of the rainbow was flaunted before
first flush of dawn was tinting the horizon. The train was speeding
one; a red fez, a purple scarf, a green head-shawl, a yellow sash, a
rapidly along; the landscape was uninteresting, a flat desert-like
white or creamy coat, and a gunny-sack on the form of a black boy
waste, not a bush nor a habitation to be seen. But for the lovely
mingled in kaleidoscopic fashion among the chattering throng. And
tints in the sky everything was barren and dreary.
quaintly worded signs fastened on doors and window blinds—these
We were now in Palestine, though the mountains were not yet in        also varied in color from gaudy pink to cerulean blue and saucy reds
sight. I gazed out of the window dreamily for an hour, then arose,       and henna, with old grey weatherboards showing here and there.
made a hasty toilet, and went out in search of my travelling com-           Advertising in western fashion was attempted heroically. Here
panion. I found him waiting with a huge bunch of luscious grapes,        was the "new" struggling with the "old." In bold black lettering in
which we enjoyed, as they furnished both food and drink. Much            English the advantages of the "Hotel Jerusalem" were announced.
refreshed, we sat silent for a long time, realizing we were coming       The hotel was an old stone house with a narrow, arched door, before
nearer and nearer to the most sacred spot in the world!                  which stood a donkey laden with formidable sacks, containing, no
We could see now the glorious mountains h^,the distance. Egypt        doubt, the provender for this hotel; patiently it waited to be rewas far behind, and the scenery of Palestine was more animated, if       lieved of its burden, meanwhile flicking off the troublesome flies
still quite monotonous. A camel, a donkey, some cows in a seem-          buzzing about it. In front of the hotel small tables were arranged
ingly bare pasture, an Arab now and then striding along, dotted          at which men were seated, laughing and talking in loud voices, and
drinking thick, black coffee from tiny cups, eating and smoking          "Praise be to God!" sang my heart. "May I become worthy of this
between times, and clapping their hands when anything was to be          bounty!"
replenished.                                                                Every evening at eight o'clock the Master holds a meeting lasting
Our carriage wound its way slowly in and out of the melee of           an hour or more, during which He discourses upon intricate probanimals, carts and human beings on the main street until at last we      lems concerning the Cause. The Master is seated upon the large
turned the corner, and this varied picture, like a "movie screen,"       porch in front of the house, to which ten white stone steps lead from
vanished from sight. The sun, the brightest and hottest we had ever      the broad gravel path. A white stone coping borders the path on
known, greeted us with an intensity characteristic of the East, mak-     each side, providing seating space for fifty or more people who coning us burn with impatience to get to our journey's end. Five min-       stitute the audience.
utes more and we were at the Master's House. Being informed that            View with me that majestic Figure in white flowing garments
'Abdu'1-Bahá was not in just then, we went with Dr. Lotfullah to         seated before us, a white turban crowning the wonderful head with
the Pilgrim House across the way. Here we found Fugeta in                its long silvery locks lifted gently by the breeze; the beautifully
charge. We were greeted most heartily and shown to our rooms,
moulded hands emphasizing the discourse with impressive gesture.
where we removed the dust of travel, and after changing our gar-
After the address a Russian refugee Baha'i teacher chants in exments, we joined the friends in the dining-room where we were
quisitely modulated tones, the prayers of Baha'u'llah. It is imposrefreshed with tea. A general talk ensued. Jenab-i-Fadil was the
sible adequately to describe this scene. The writer became conscious
centre of attraction. He had been absent for more than two years.
of new emotions, the awakening of something so subtle, so elusive,
Among the guests was a young Egyptian who was visiting the
that one could not capture it, yet so impressive that everything was
Master for a few days before returning to Paris for further study,
cast into oblivion except the immediate present. The fragrance from
having met the Master there twelve years before. An Arabian govthe gardens on either side wafted a different scent on each breath of
ernment official, who, among other duties, vised passports and who
the night air. Roses, orange blossoms, lemon buds, tuberoses, jascame to dinner by invitation of the Master whenever his train
stopped at Haifa, was also there. He was handsome, of powerful           mine, honeysuckle,—each in turn left its definite sweetness as a
physique and his twinkling eyes and ready smile showed the good          fresh odour entranced one and vanished.
humour behind a rather stern mien in repose. He was a Muham-                O that I might impress this scene upon the heart of the world!
madan and loved the Master.                                              To me it is as though all eternity could not efface it;—that majestic
In the midst of our chatting and tea drinking Fugeta announced,        white Figure seated on the broad stone platform like a king en-
"The Master is coming!" Another moment and His resonant voice            throned, the setting of natural beauty so befitting His spiritual stawas calling to us: "Bismillahl Bismillah!" Welcome! Welcome!             tion,—the gardens, the sea, the starry heavens, and the millions of
Taking us each by the hand He exclaimed: "We have been looking           gleaming points of light reflected below. Shadows deepen under
for you for some days. You should have wired us of your arrival          the trees, while at their tops the leaves glisten and glimmer like
and we would have sent our carriage to the station for you." Turn-       sparkling gems. The murmur of the sea is just beyond, the waves
ing to me He said: "You must rest; you are very tired. Now you           in ever repeating undulations, coming nearer and nearer to caress
are at home. This is your home. Here you must rest and be very           the shore. The melodious chanting, the deep silences, the seated
happy. BkSillah! Bismillah!" and the Presence, like a tonic breeze,      figures with bowed heads and devoted hearts.
vanished. I retired and rested for an hour. What heavenly peace!—           The chant ends. In a few moments the Master rises and goes into
a tender vibration, soft, silent, blissful! My soul was steeped in it.   the house. Everyone rises also and salutes in the beautiful eastern
4                                                                        5
fashion, hand touching the forehead and then the heart. The spell         number,—we were served with tea, after which we sat in profound
is broken!                                                                silence.
Then again the Master comes, descends the steps, finds me, and            The scene here also was most impressive. The sun was travelling
motions that I precede Him into the dining-room, an addition              toward the west, tinting the clouds with gold and mauve. "See the
built recently for the entertainment of guests. This is a large room      sea!" said the Master. "So is the bounty of God to-day flowing like
having a very high ceiling, as have all the rooms in the East, and        the waves of this sea. We must try to appreciate His Goodness, His
there are seven large windows. Everything is white. A long table          Power and Glory." His beautiful voice echoed vibrantly through
is in the centre of the room laid for fifty or more people. The Mas-      space, giving clear-cut teachings as He sat there on the mountain.
ter placed me at the head of the table on the right, and thus He          "Take prejudice, how it grows. First a few people say something
placed me throughout my visit. He always inquired in English              disparaging about a person, and, generally there is a fragment of
after my health and would urge me to eat more, saying again and           truth in what they say. The story grows, is spread, the circle widens,
again: "Too little, much too little," when I assured Him I had            discussions are indulged in, inharmony results, schism takes place,
eaten abundantly.                                                         what a waste of precious time that could and should be used for
On several occasions my replies to the Master's loving solicitations   constructive work!"
in English were in Persian, a few sentences, but He was pleased              Then He spoke of sincerity. "There are degrees always in everyand amused, I think, judging by the merry light in His eyes. He           thing. Until a man is freed from ego he may be positive and cersaid to the big Arabian official, who spoke only Arabic: "See, here       tain about many things that are not so. He spoke of tests. "Tests
is an American lady who speaks correct Persian. You say you               are not sent as punishment, but to reveal the soul to itself. Suffering
cannot learn it and you hear it every day. She does not hear it often     unfolds both the strength and the weakness. Tests are sometimes
but she has learned." The Master would ask, "What is this? What           creative of grateful surprise also; for in the midst of our trials we
is that?" indicating things on the table, and say approvingly, "Brava,    are amazed at the fulness of our strength and our resources, and so
Brava! You know everything that is useful to know. That is very           the heavy discipline is creative of assurance; the trial becomes the
good." The big man eyed me with astonishment at what seemed to            source of greater confidence, faith and trust. It strengthens and conhim a wonderful performance, but he was not aware of my limita-           firms."
tions, nor of the fact that in asking His questions the Master chose         'Abdu'1-Bahá has a teaching, an apt illustration for every phase of
only such things on the table, the names of which I knew in Persian!      life; a guidance for every issue and crisis, a solution for every prob-
Indeed, this did not dawn upon me until afterward and I felt quite        lem and an answer to every question voiced or silent.
proud of my accomplishment. How tenderly the Master seeks to                 Tea was served, and the "Tablet of Visitation" was chanted by a
have one feel of some account in the world, and of course one longs       sweet-voiced worshipper whose name I cannot recall but whose soul
in return to become as dust beneath His Blessed Feet!                     was revealed to me in the ardour of that heavenly chanting. How
On the first Sunday in Haifa I was told to be ready at 5 p.m. as        long we knelt there I do not know, but when I raised myself I was
the Master was to take me to the Holy Tomb of the *Bab, situated          alone in the Sacred Tomb. A moment after someone touched me
about half-way up Mt. Carmel, the Mountain of God, as the He-             on the shoulder and beckoned, and silently I followed him out of
brews call it. The Master placed me at His side in the automobile,        the shrine.
Jenab-i-Fadil and several of the small grandchildren making the              Of this wonderful experience I almost hesitate to speak. I had
driving party. The other men pilgrims walked. When all had ar-            been lost in deepest contemplation and prayer. It seemed to me tlfat
rived and were seated fronting the Tomb,—there were over fifty in         all the souls that had ever worshipped here, together with all the
>                    6                                                                         7
"Friends of God" I had ever known, were congregated in this holy       loveliness! The contrast to family life in the outside world is so
spot. A wonderful Company! Faces known and unknown rose be-            o-reat that the observer marvels, and the conviction deepens that
fore my inner vision, and as my soul breathed a supplicating thought    here is a miracle of miracles that only love, spiritual love, could
for loved ones far or near, the faces would appear, just in a flash,   make possible. What models to the world these holy women are,
radiant and wreathed in smiles. The meaning of the reality of "One-     can be known only to those who witness their lives of sacrifice and
ness" dawned upon my consciousness, never again to be forgotten!       service,—second only to the life of the Exemplar, their Teacher and
This inner consciousness was unfolded later in relation to a subse-    Educator, 'Abdu'1-Bahá, the Master, the Possessor of all perfections,
quent experience.                                                       the embodiment of all virtues, the helper of the poor and needy,
The Master had been waiting for me. As I hastened to the auto-       the Counsellor of the afflicted and sorrowful,—He who is God's
mobile in which He was seated and took my place beside Him, He          Covenant to the people of the world!
said: "I shall take you to the summit of the Mountain of God." I           How can my feeble pen worthily record such a life of untiring
could not speak, and the Blessed One said nothing more, but in the      service and devotion as that of "The Greatest Holy Leaf," sister of
silence we drove on and on, and I knew the Master read my heart,—       'Abdu'1-Bahá?
its longing to reach the summit of consciousness in service to the         From early morning till very late at night she is in demand, and
Cause.                                                                  with the assistance of the Master's daughters, she carries out every
Every afternoon from four to seven during my stay, I visited the     detail of this formidable household.
ladies of the "Holy Household." On Wednesday afternoons a                  The women of 'Abdu'l-Baha's family are the precious flowering of
"Woman's Meeting" is held in the large central room, secluded           the spiritual civilization inaugurated at the dawn of the New Age,
from the masculine gaze of the many visitors the Master receives at     where every faculty of the mind and heart has been quickened by
all hours of the day. Baha'i women living outside also attend these     the Divine Breath of the Gardener, who has nourished and susgatherings, where one of the Master's daughters reads or chants the     tained them through all the vicissitudes that result from such
prayers and tablets of Baha'u'llah.
heroic living. No complaint is ever audible, and yet I read in the
Tea is always served with Persian cookies and grapes. The Mas-       depths of their wonderful eyes a real tragedy, and this is unconter, if He can spare the time, generally looks in to greet the assemsciously voiced in their desire for their children; they long for
bly, say a few words and make them all happy.
nothing for themselves, but yearn to give the children the advan-
The Master's household numbers more than a hundred persons,
tages of modern knowledge and education, of which they, through
not counting the children of the believers and His own grandlong years of exile and confinement behind prison walls, have been
children. How wonderfully significant, as an example to the world,
deprived. "For ourselves," they say, "we ask nothing; we are grateis this living service so cheerfully given by each member of the
ful for the wonderful spiritual bounties we have had, for we have
family! There is such harmony and unity in this household, where
all the machinery of every-day life is carried on without a break.       learned the meaning of sacrifice, which is not to do without things,
Every emergency is provided for; unexpected visitors are always         but if, for some reason, one is deprived, then to accept willingly
entertained with a composure and sincerity unbelievable unless wit-      and uncomplainingly; but for our children we do desire and pray
nessed day after day as I saw it. Where in this wide world could         for education that they may be of greater service to humanity, and
a parallel be found, even approximate to this? No complaint, no          open the way to self-support for the women of the East."
friction amidst a variety of temperaments and of different stations        Someone has said of 'Abdu'1-Bahá, "He is the practical mystic,"
in life. It is a garden of variegated flowers growing in the utmost      and certain it is that in the teachings of Baha'u'llah and 'Abdu'l-
8                                                                        9
Bahá the unity of all life is constantly emphasized. "The law of          hopelessly in the grasp of the ancient fanatical ideas and customs
human life is unceasing interaction between mind and body.                from which the woman of the West has been emancipated to a
"In accidents a surgeon is called to adjust injured members as         large degree and is still pressing forward! We cannot, nay we dare
nearly as possible to the original pattern by scientific means. Nature,   not let the wail of our Eastern sisters remain unheeded. In that
in obedience to a spiritual principle, inherent in every living thing,    blessed shrine, the holy Tomb of Baha'u'llah, the most earnest supbrings into operation the healing power to the lacerated parts. This      plication of my soul was that my Western sisters might respond and
is true co-operation between organic and spiritual forces. Life's heal-   assist the womanhood of the East, that we might co-operate in the
ing power is spiritual, but its operation in behalf of an organic body    building of a school for girls at Haifa, and equip it with volunteer
is by adjustment to the workings of organic law. Waste of vital           teachers.
and nervous forces through working at cross-purposes with law,—              Now I must refer to a personal matter in order that my story may
the failure to recognize the oneness of life in every phase, physical,    be intelligible to the reader, a matter which concerns my having
mental, moral and spiritual, is largely the cause of the world's suf-     been called # by ùAbdu'l-Bahá to the Holy Land. Briefly there had
fering and inefficiency."                                                 been some misunderstanding as to the interpretation of certain
The Master's daughters, so imbued with these principles, natu-         Baha'i teachings. Some of the friends understood them in one way
rally desire the education of their children in the balanced ratio,       and some in another. This had created confusion and I became
so that one set of faculties may not be exalted above others. The         very ill. In this crisis I was called to make the visit to 'Abdu'1-Bahá,
Baha'i teachings recognize that all faculties are expressed in the same   and just before leaving the United States a goodly number of the
organism and so are inter-dependent for the ill or good of humanity.      friends,—some of one opinion and some of another,—called upon
"Nothing is true education that does not fit the human being for          me and I was requested to bring back something very definite from
constructive living. For twenty centuries men have clothed a spirit-      the Master.
ual ideal in the garment of ecclesiastical pomp and ceremony, and            It was the custom of ùAbdu'l-Bahá each morning at about ten
have preached an established form of traditional and superimposed         o'clock to visit the Pilgrim House and talk to me, Mirza Bahadur
authority. But of the daily living of the ideal of the spirit of Christ   usually interpreting. The Master would begin with "How is your
there is but little evidence save among a few choice souls. Of an         health?"—which of course refers to the spiritual condition; and
inner consecration to justice, to right, to moral initiative, to equity   then, "Are you happy?" then "Perfectly happy?" Now I knew I
in practical affairs, altruistic conduct toward humanity en masse, the    was not "perfectly happy" so long as He had not given me the defispiritual dynamics of the life of Reality,—the world has had slight       nite instructions which the friends had desired me to bring back.
evidence. But now, Praise be to God, in this century of Light the         After a most heavenly day with the Master and His Household, I
practical advantages of social, ethical, and industrial relationships     would see the faces of the friends before me at night and they
based upon other ideals are beginning to be recognized and dealt          seemed to look sternly expectant. He had given ample illustrations
with accordingly. Statesmen are glimpsing the fact that the world         and examples that should have satisfied one not under the spell of
must be reconstructed in the new spirit of understanding commen-          acting as ambassador for a group of people and who felt the responsurate with this advantage." Such were the conversations with the         sibility. Finally one morning, in answer to the question "Are you
daughters of the Master during this memorable visit.                      perfectly happy?" I said, "Yes, dear Master, I am perfectly happy
O women of the West! I beg of God that your hearts may be                  #
Mrs. Parsons of Washington, D. C , received the following cablegram from
touched and stirred as was my heart by the hunger-cry of these            'Abdu'1-Bahá, dated Haifa, Palestine, April 27, 1921: "Send immediately Mrs. Watson
Eastern mothers, representing as they do thousands who are yet            in utmost comfort to Holy Land."
10                                                                              II
but for one little thing that remains in my consciousness; not for           In this day electricity is the agent used to restore weakened vitalmyself do I desire something definite, but for others," and then I        ity and most successful are some results reported. To my spirit
proceeded to give some details. But the Blessed One ignored it as         'Abdu'1-Bahá is a new discovery in Spiritual Science. He is pure
before, and calling my attention to some clouds above our heads,          Radium. His Spirit is the Spirit of Light, of life in the highest
He said, "You must be like these swift-moving, luminous clouds.           degree. It is creative. A new energy radiates from Him to the re-
They move, nothing hinders them. I shall pray for you that you will       cipient and makes him vital and alive. Blessed is the one who has
be like these clouds. Let nothing hinder you. Speak always of the         been treated with this Divine Current.
Love of God. Teach the people what the Love of God is. Give them             "The age of miracles is past." Often we hear this statement from
the Glad Tidings. Let nothing hinder thee; let nothing touch thy          the press, the people, and even from the pulpit. The Higher Critispirit which is not in conformity with the teachings of the Blessed       cism interprets the miracles of the ancients as symbols and symbols
Beauty. Be ever engaged in the service of the Kingdom. Do not let         only. It is true that many instances recorded in the Holy Books are
the unpleasant things annoy you. You must be as far removed               symbols of spiritual conditions, truths and universal principles, but
from them as these clouds are above us. The important thing is            that is not to deny the performance of miracles, even literally upon
to spread the Teachings, to show love and compassion, to be kind          this plane, by the Manifestations of God. What significance is there
to all, and not wound the feelings of others. If we do not like to        in the fact that the prophecies of the ancients are daily fulfilled, at
associate with some people, very well, it is not compulsory. We can       this time in a literal sense? "Greater things than these shall ye do"
let them alone and become so busy with constructive work, that            was uttered by the Christ nineteen centuries ago, referring to the mirthere is no time to waste upon such matters. We do not waste our          acles of this age. Greater miracles are performed in this Day of God,
time in discussing non-essentials. Neither must you do this. Forget       because: "It is the Day of Maturity for the sons of men." Miracles
every unpleasantness of the past; speak only of constructive work,        upon all the planes of life are performed because a New Spirit
of the Love of God, of the compassion and mercy of God. See\ to           adorns the world of mankind. Blessed are they who have eyes to
ma\e others happy!' And so would end the teaching of one day,             see and ears to hear! How kind is the Compassionate Lord to His
perfect, except for the one little thought which I deemed so impor-       creatures!
tant! "O God, help us to be severed from all but Thee!"                      In the year 1890 I was a victim of a car accident in the city of
It is an amazing experience when one first meets 'Abdu'1-Bahá.         Washington, D. C. The injury was so severe that life was thought
Many have tried to express it; many have partially expressed it.          to be extinct for several hours. The spinal column was twisted and
Some, though feeling deeply, cannot express it at all. What the Mas-      pushed out of alignment to such a degree that a portion of the
ter says so simply,—seemingly, as it strikes the ear, if it reaches the   vertebrae lay upon the left ribs, forming a protrusion the size of an
inner being, contains ever-deepening truths. One marvels at the           infant's head. The right ribs were crushed and splinters of bone
beauty and wisdom, and at the dulness of the surface consciousness        were removed. The right hip was out of the socket, not perceived
of the merely human.                                                      at first by the doctors, and the left arm could only be partially raised.
The first meeting with 'Abdu'1-Bahá never startles* It thrills one     I lay unconscious at the hospital for many days, taking no nourishwith a new sense of vitality. It quickens. It is healing. It recalls:     ment whatever, not even water, and undoubtedly would have been
"He cometh with healing in His wings." It is penetrative. One             buried, had the period lengthened, but for the fact that some friends
cannot possibly remain the same as before the meeting, because the        informed the physicians that in childhood I had also been "in a
Divine Ray has touched the creature and somehow, somewhere,               trance" for nineteen days, so the interment was postponed.
some time, the creature will know.                                          During this unconscious period, that is to say unconscious to all
12                                                                         13
earthly surroundings, my soul was very much alive on inner sub-          the celestial vibration. As the night was far spent the seven pilgrims
jective planes. In these experiences I met with a Wonderful Being,—      silently proceeded through the garden laden with the sweet breath
whom I afterwards learned was 'Abdu'1-Bahá, who gave me spiritual        of flowers richer for the dews of night.
instructions and taught me the mysteries of life, saying: "Many of          We entered in single file that Holy of Holies, and each pilgrim
these things thou dost comprehend only in part, for thou must            knelt in adoration. When we emerged it seemed that hours had
live them and then teach the people of the world. This is for future     rolled on toward eternity! It was long past midnight. We supped
harvesting." (From "The Two Paths.")                                     lightly and retired. Sleep did not come. The few hours were spent
For thirty years this crippled body suffered untold agony. For        in communion, potent and exhilarating yet conducive to self-examyears I had tried to live according to the Divine Teachings of           ination and repentance. Tears flowed freely as we supplicated for
the Baha'i Revelation, before coming, on the outer plane of life, into   the "cleansing of the sanctuary" within the self, and many of the
the knowledge of the actual embodiment of my Lord and Master,            beloved friends were remembered in the supplications poured forth
'Abdu'1-Bahá. In 1901 He accepted me as a servant in His Holy            that night in the Holy Shrine.
Vineyard, and from that time my humble services and my life                 At dawn the seven pilgrims again made the blessed visit to the
have been dedicated to Him for His Cause.                                Holy Tomb of Him whom God made manifest. Seven pilgrims,
Now it is opportune to relate the remarkable experience after         each from a different part of the world, strangers before, now bound
my visit to the Holy Tomb of Baha'u'llah. It was on August the           by the firm rope of Baha'i love and friendship, realizing their kinninth, 1921, that seven pilgrims started for 'Akká to visit the Holy     ship and unity as the children of the Household of Faith in the
Shrine. Jenáb-i-Fadil Mázandarání and myself were of the party.          Revelation of God in this Great Day! Strange paradox! We came to
The Master's carriage conveyed us to the station of Haifa, where         the Tomb for Life! "There is no death" has now a new meaning.
we took the train to 'Akká, waited there for an hour, had some re-       We realized it as we came forth, clothed with the garment of Realfreshments, and another vehicle was secured from a Baha'i friend         ity. And now to complete the pilgrimage we were to visit the
to finish the journey. It was late when we reached the house of the      Ridván, or Garden of God, about two and a half miles from the
caretaker of the Holy Tomb. The moon had risen and was shining           Tomb of Baha'u'llah.
above the mountains, pillowed on a vast bed of fleecy clouds, whose         It was early morning. We had breakfast and at six o'clock we
silvery edges appeared as an immense etching against the midnight        were ready to start; but to our dismay, no vehicle was to be found.
depths of marvellous blue. Earth and sky literally "embraced like        The man who had conveyed us from the station could not come; he
two lovers."                                                             had been called away and had gone to Haifa. What were we to do ?
Again we were refreshed by tea, and when we gathered on the           The men could walk, but it was difficult even for them in the heat
front piazza built of the white stone that is so much used in this       and the dusty road. The caretaker, after a thoughtful moment, came
part of the country, another marvellous scene was presented to our       to our rescue. He proposed that I ride the Master's white donkey.
view. At our feet lay the sea, or more accurately perhaps, the Bay       It was pure white, handsome, and full of life. As I surveyed the
of 'Akká. The Tomb on the right and the Holy Mountain of Car-            locomotive power before me I had some misgivings as to the sucmel loomed like Giant Hands upholding in majesty the Cause of            cess of the venture. The pilgrims seemed to sense my hesitation
God. What an atmosphere! O the calm of that Holy Place! Night            and asked: "What do you think of it? Will you ride him?" "I have
had flung her jewelled stars most lavishly abroad. The whole was of      never mounted anything more lively than a wooden hobby-horse in
magic splendour. The heart was entranced by such concentrated            childhood" was my answer, "but as there is no other way, I shall
beauty. No one spoke above a whisper lest a harsher note disturb         have to attempt it, for I must go to the Ridván with you." An im-
14                                                                       15
provised saddle was brought, depriving the house of a solid pillow           been given to the Cause, more dear than life and now the Blessed
of generous dimensions. This was held in place by a rope passed              One had sent for me to come to the Land of Desire; I had visited
around the body of the donkey, who protested quite vigorously at             the Holy Shrines and now I would enter the Ridván, the Garden
the unusual equipment. Although the caretaker assured me that he             of God," so ran my thoughts.
was very gentle, I confess the prospect did not appear alluring.                I felt strangely relieved and calm. I could see the tree quite near
However, I mustered up courage, and as a chair was brought to                that marked the entrance to the garden. The Doctor again apassist me to mount, I was finally seated sidewise and the reins were         proached with Jenab-i-Fadil and they said: "We will help you down
placed in my hands. The donkey was led by the caretaker's son, a             to rest before going in." A few minutes more and I stood on my
kindly youth who cast sympathetic glances at my "perch."                     feet, but not as formerly! I could breathe deeply, which had not
The procession started quite briskly. I braced up as best I could         been possible for thirty years. My hip, somehow, was in place, the
for I did not wish to spoil the trip for the men-pilgrims by my              projecting bow on the left side of my spine had disappeared. In a
timidity; but oh, the road was so stony, the pillow was slipping             flash this was all realized. I threw up both arms and cried out: "O
and I was doubling up on one side! The donkey went swiftly along,            God, my God! This is a miracle that God hath wrought! Yá-Bahá'-
kicking every now and then to rid himself of the flies, while I              u'1-Abhá!" The other pilgrims were no less astonished than I, and
trembled within, fearing every moment that he would get rid of me            joined me in fervent prayer and thanksgiving at what had been so
too. I prayed, "O God! help me to keep on," for now there were               strangely accomplished by the ride on the Master's white donkey.
strange snappings and crackings in my back, sides atid shoulders.               I mounted again with ease and sat as straight as a major on dress
Pain, sharp pain, racked my whole body. It was growing unbearable            parade on the back of this white "surgeon" who was utterly unand I was inwardly groaning with every forward step of the donkey,           conscious of the aid he had given me, and of the feeling I enteras it stumbled over stones and I grasped its mane. One of the pil-           tained for him as I reverently kissed his nose.
grims approached me and said: "Wouldn't it be better to rest a                  The Doctor photographed our little group and then we proceeded
while? You are suffering, I see, and we have quite a long distance           into the Ridván, and came to the blessed spot where stand the two
yet." I declined, trying to smile, and said: "I think it is best to go on,   mulberry trees so loved by Baha'u'llah, and in this vine-covered
it would be too difficult to mount again." "Well, promise that when          bower of beauty where He used to sit, we tarried, and here refreshit becomes too hard for you, you will call and we will help you              ment was brought us by the caretaker, who said: "Oh, you should
down to rest." He adjusted the pillow as best he could and I prom-           have seen it before the war! It was the most beautiful spot in the
ised to call for help if needed. We started again. The heat was              whole world,—so travellers used to tell us. The Master will now
intense yet I felt cold, every nerve quivering with pain, and there          have it restored to its former loveliness."
was more snapping and tearing. What was going on, I wondered,                   At the end of the Garden on one side stands the little house
in my spine and shoulder-blades? I felt as though I were being               containing the "treasures" of the time of Baha'u'llah; the wonderful
dismembered. Did it mean my death? The X-ray photograph of                   table with lids holding in its depths many articles used by him.
my body came vividly before me and the words of the surgeon                  The precious chair in which He sat is preserved in a separate chest.
were in my ears,—"Nothing can be done. If force is applied the               Another photograph of us was taken at this historic spot, and all
bones will snap. Death will be the result." "Well," I thought at             the while I seemed treading upon air, and would ask myself: "Can
last, "what more beautiful could happen,—to die in the Holy Land,            it be true? Is this really I, who can breathe and walk without pain,
to be released from pain and suffering? Evidently my work was                so freed? O God, wonderful are Thy ways!" And there in that
finished on this plane. For twenty years my humble service had               garden, hallowed by the footsteps of Baha'u'llah and 'Abdu'1-Bahá,
16                                                                         17
we lingered until it was time to leave for the train that was to carry       The next morning I arose at six,—another, a different person.
us back to Haifa.                                                        Fugeta, that most devoted and selfless servant who sees to the needs
Everyone on the train seemed to stare at me. Was it because I was      and comforts of every pilgrim, was setting the table for breakfast.
a stranger, or was it that they read the overwhelming joy of my          "You must have slept soundly. I never saw you looking so well
spirit? I felt so elated, so buoyant, so intensely happy, I could only    although it was an awfully hot night," was his greeting to me. "No,
with difficulty control myself in silence. I longed to shout: "Glory     I did not sleep at all, but it was not the heat that prevented me,"
to God! O people, if you could know the wonderful thing that has          and then I told him of the wonderful change that had come over
happened to me since yesterday you too would shout." My left arm         me during the night, and that now I was perfectly happy as the
was now entirely free and, again and again, I raised it above my         Master had wished;—that I saw everything from an entirely differhead in sheer joy and wonder.                                            ent angle. God had opened my eyes; with His healing He had
That night I lived over again the remarkable occurrences of the       given me insight; I was no longer "blind"; I did not want the Maslast twenty-four hours. The experience at the Holy Shrine of Baha'-      ter to give me anything definite for myself nor for anyone else!
u'llah whither 'Abdu'1-Bahá had sent me and the various phases              The friends joined me at the breakfast table and rejoiced with
connected with the "visit."                                              me, for they had heard of my experience. All had remarked: "How
I did not sleep nor even try to. I realized a change in my con-       well you are looking!" Doctor Lotfullah, who is of such valuable
sciousness, a marked change of attitude in my mind and heart             service to every visitor as well as to the blessed Household, and
toward former matters. I shouted in the stillness of my being at the     Mirza Bahadur, that sweetly dignified and serious young man who
glorious realization; I knew that the physical healing was the outer     has spent twelve years with the Master, is a linguist and most effisymbol of the emancipation of my soul. I was free not only in body,      cient in interpreting and translating, and that blessed soul, Jenab-ibut what was far more important, I was free in soul, in mind and         Fadil Mázandarání. In the midst of these never-to-be-forgotten comspirit. O Compassionate God! What a revelation came to my soul!          panions breakfast was eaten and before we dispersed I said: "Please,
I realized the darkened state of human consciousness,—of even such       Mirza Bahadur, when the Master comes this morning, tell Him the
as believe themselves of the enlightened and faithful servants of
substance of what you have heard, and say that I am perfectly con-
God! I thought with pity of the former "foolishness,"—wanting
tented and happy now, that I do not desire anything definite for
something definite to take home to the friends. Wanting something
myself nor for anyone."
which the Master had ignored. "The wisdom of man is foolishness
The Master did not visit us as usual that morning, but He had
unto God" was truly proved. Fervently came the prayer: "O Lord!
luncheon with us. He greeted us all in His ineffable way, paying no
Heed us not in our foolish requests. Sever us from our limitations.
special attention to me. I was so happy and I wanted Him to know
Bestow upon us the Light of Thy Wisdom so that we may become
it. The meal would be over and soon He would be gone. "Please,
conscious of Thy Will!"
Mirza Bahadur," I said: "Do tell the Master what I requested of
The joy, the happiness, the bliss, the peace now experienced canyou." But before he could do so, the Master, in a voice thrillingly
not be conveyed. Rapture enveloped my whole bein£; for now I
knew the meaning of the- "Most Great Bounty" and the "Mystery            vibrant, said, as He turned to me: "Brava! Brava! Ah, now you are
of God." The love of the Master in which all humanity is em-             another Mrs. Watson! Now you are perfectly happy. Now you have
braced had so surrounded and penetrated my being that the Light          something most definite to take home with you to the friends."
of His Wisdom had transformed my view into a vision of Reality.          Tenderly His gaze rested upon me, radiating such love that I could
So are we "changed in the twinkling of an eye."                          scarcely bear it. Fervently I thanked God that I was able to register
18                                                                     19
in my soul a portion of this Divine Elixir so potently and lavishly      finishing some notes, and hastily putting down my work, I arose
bestowed by this perfect Christ-type man, the Master of Haifa.           just as the Master came in. Behold Him with me. There He stands,
Seventeen more golden days were spent with the Master and His         this wtmderful Being, His countenance radiating every phase of
holy family. Only too swiftly did they fly. Every day, two or three      graciousness, love, beauty, sweetness and grandeur that the soul can
times as the occasion permitted, I saw the Blessed One. Now that         conceive! He bore in His hands a silver salver covered with white
I did not clamour for it, every explanation was given and made           jasmine. After greeting me He said: "I come to bring you my fareclear. Is it a wonder that my consciousness expanded far beyond the      well gift, these fragrant blossoms. May your deeds fill the world
boundaries of my former limitations and that I utterly forgot them       with like fragrance!" His "farewell gift"! I placed it on the table
in the dazzling splendour of illumination from the Sun of Truth,         with a tumultuous heart. The Master continued: "In a few days
the sign of which is 'Abdu'1-Bahá, the Centre of the Covenant of        you will leave us. Other guests are coming and it is my wish that
God?                                                                    you visit as many of the friends in Alexandria, Port Said and Cairo
Mirza Sayyid Mustapha, from India, an old Baha'i and a great          as possible. You will refresh them and they will welcome you with
worker in the Cause, was a guest of the Master and had been in          genuine Baha'i love."
the household for several months to recuperate after most arduous          Left alone, I wept. A thousand memories of His wondrous kindlabours, having formed an Indian Baha'i colony of about 150 souls.      ness rushed upon my soul and made real to me the divine outpour-
He was one of the pilgrims to the Torgb of Baha'u'llah and a wit-       ing of Love which the Christ manifested in the former time, but
ness to my healing. His wish was that I might go to his colony and      which the earthly consciousness of men has so obscured that scarcely
teach his people. He asked if I would go, and I said: "Yes, most        a trace is visible in the majority of mankind to-day. Now in the
willingly, if the Master permits." Then he said, "The Master loves      dawn of this great cycle, the outlook is hopeful and inspiring, for
you, will you not ask Him?" Again my answer was, "Yes, most             the Christ Spirit has revealed a new Heaven of spiritual undergladly." Several times Mirza Sayyid Mustapha talked with me about       standing, bringing about the union of minds and hearts in thouthe colony, the work I could do there, and how happy it would           sands of ready souls, and a realization that this Christ Love must
make him to have me go. A few days after, I did ask 'Abdu'1-Bahá        be applied in the life of the individual.
and He said: "I have already told Sayyid Mustapha that if I should        The miracles performed daily by 'Abdu'1-Bahá could not be resend you to India now, you would ascend in a short time to the         corded by human pen; the healing of the soul's blindness, restoring
Kingdom of Abhá. No, your body is not strong enough to stand           the crippled in consciousness and the resurrection of the "dead" to
the hardships such a trip and work would entail. I wish you to          spiritual reality. These are indeed miracles that the people of every
go back to America and give the Glad Tidings. Take to them the         nation, and every religion have seen demonstrated in this Day, as
definite' things I have given you. You are a living sign of the Love   well as the wonders of physical healing. Baha'is do not make physiof God." A few minutes later I told Sayyid Mustapha, and he said:      cal healing of paramount importance. "If, merely, the physical sight
"The Master told me yesterday. He knows best. I did not realize        is restored the person will, in due time, pass out of the body, and
that you are not strong in body, your spirit is so alive." We both     no permanent benefit is gained." Yet to me He said: "The adjustrealized that the Master had answered his question before I had        ment of thy body is proof of the Love of God, and thou must be
asked Him,—another proof of His power to read the heart's de-          ever grateful for this bounty."
sires.                                                                    That afternoon, meeting with the Ladies of the Household, my
A few days after this incident Fugeta came to my room and said:     eyes showed traces of weeping, and in answer to their solicitous
"The Master is coming to see you." It was not the usual hour. I was    inquiries, I told them of the Master's wish that I should leave in a I
20                                                                     21
few days, and tears again came to my eyes. The ladies embraced me      pressure of His hand we parted. Silently I said: "Good-bye," and
with the utmost affection, saying: "Dear sister, do not weep, your     going down the stone steps for the last time, I gazed upward, and,
sadness makes us very sad too. We will ask the Master not to send      seeing the Master standing above, I seemed to feel and hear His
you away. We all love you and wish you could remain here always.       benediction.
We will ask the Master to let you stay. You could teach us many          Later I slipped over to the Master's House to see the ladies once
things." I was about to ask them not to speak to the Master, when      more as I had promised. The Greatest Holy Leaf gave me a rosary
He came in upon us unawares. We were standing in a group with          of lovely blue beads divided by exquisite blue pendants. She said:
locked arms and tear-stained faces, and endeavoured to separate,       "I have strung these myself for you, and have prayed that you may
but He said, pushing us together again: "Nah, nah, this is good,       be restored to perfect health and grow strong so that you may work
very good." Gazing with wondrous love upon us, before anyone           many years for the Master."
had time to ask, He said: "No, she must go, she is too useful in the     It was past midnight when, with many tender farewells, we
outside world to remain longer. She must go forth, spread the Glad     parted. That last hour is engraved eternally upon my memory as a
Tidings, teach the people, demonstrate to them the Love of God."       sacred ending of my visit of pilgrimage to the "Land of Desire."
"See," He continued, pointing to the little group which now the
younger grandchildren had joined, "See how they love you. We all
love you. This is your home, but now you must go away from
home. Thou hast eaten with us, not only material food, thou hast
eaten with us spiritual food. The Heavenly Food consists of the
Love of God, the knowledge of God, the bestowal of divine gifts.
Thou must be very grateful for this wonderful bounty to thee and
become radiantly happy." After this I shed no more tears!
The last day, August 27th, 1921, had arrived. Alláh-u-Abhás and
good-byes had been repeated many times by the beloved friends,
friends newly made, but eternal in realized consciousness. I did
not see the Master that day in the Pilgrim House owing to His
many visitors, but in His own house at dinner He was most kind
and regretted that He had not been able to see me before. At the
table He did not refer to my going away. But after dinner He
beckoned to me and led me out on the broad stone parapet and had
two chairs placed there. He motioned to me to be seated and gave
me some instructions as to His wishes regarding my work in the
future. Finally He arose and said: "As you leave at three in the
morning, I will not see you again. This is my last farewell to you.
I send you forth under the protection of Bahá u'llah, the Blessed
Beauty. Be filled with His Love to overflowing. We shall pray for
you always. Do not forget this." He summoned Soheil to take me
to the Pilgrim House and without another word, but witl/a strong
22                                                                     23
-- My Pilgrimage to the Land of Desire (Used by permission of the curator)